How I'll set my car up when I get it:
First off - I'll set the front and rear camber to -1.0 with a full fuel tank. I'll set the front caster right on spec, and the rear caster (assuming it makes it) to the spec (-4, IIRC). Toe-in will be set to spec, a tenth toe in front and rear, too.
I'll see how that works. I suspect it will work well.
Then, when I'm fully in the summer mode, I'll put the GMPP springs on my car, (18% stiffer springs, should lower the car a tad too) and put on a set of either 245/40R18 PS-2's or GS-D3s or RE050A PPs. Haven't decided yet on the tire, but I like the size and think it results in a decent setup.
This is to become my daily driver. Still haven't settled on the color, but possibly leaning toward aggressive.
IF I decide to autox it, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Depends on the hot tire and my experiences in it as a daily driver.
that's me. Your actual mileage will vary.
Miles - I know more than a few people that work in assembly plants for many manufacturers that would debate you. The more likely scenario is that the alignment system in the assembly plant is more accurate than the best system in a garage. We're talking million $$ machines capable of aligning cars at a very high rate of throughput and a stunningly high degree of accuracy. Alignments are set in the assembly plant dynamically (meaning the wheels are rolling), and in the case of cars like the corvette or the kappas, they use a direct caster tool for setting caster, which is more accurate than field methods of measuring caster.
Front cross toe is a misnomer - if your steering wheel is straight, cross toe (and individual toe in the front) is nearly meaningless. What matters is total toe in the front with a straight steering wheel, and total toe and thrust angle in the rear. There's just too much slop in the steering system to get an accurate and absolute measurement of the front individual toe.
