This thread is intended as a summary and visual depiction of the Exhaust Depot Anti-Lag Mod ("EDAL"), also known as the "Charge Air Bypass (Solenoid) Mod", brought to us originally by Hector at Exhaust Depot (Thanks Hector!). I have some pictures of my own that I'm linking below (in the next post), and I'm also going to link in some of the previous descriptions and thread discussions, and see if we can get a moderator to pin this thread to the top of this board.

Note: My pics and MTS's pics are (theoretically) perma-hosted, but some of the images in some of the thread discussions are located on Putfile, which generally de-links images after a few months. If you find that the images are no longer available, ask around on the board; someone may have copies or can take new pictures for you. Also Brentil has added thumbnails to copies of the images that have been placed on THIS web site, and those thumbnails may be found here.

SUMMARY
The basic idea of this mod is that normally the ECU holds back the turbo until a certain amount of pressure has been relieved via the Charge Air Bypass Valve (Solenoid) (which relieves vacuum pressure from the turbine after the throttle is released). This mod is designed to stop that behavior, resulting in more rapid turbo response (less turbo lag).

From a practical perspective it's about getting the turbo to respond at a lower throttle setting. Put another way, the turbo may kick in half way down the pedal travel instead of 3/4th of the way down, depending on circumstances. So now you can use the turbo in situations where it might not have kicked in before.

Exhaust Depot has a more detailed technical description here (along with instructions):
http://www.exhaustdepot.net/edalmodlesslag.html

Two notes:
1. THIS MOD IS EXTREMELY QUICK. It will take you far longer to read this thread and all the instructions and digest the pictures than it will actually take you to do the mod. It's a five-minute job. Literally.
2. THIS MOD IS REVERSIBLE. Just remove the severed length of rubber tubing with the T-connector embedded in it (see instructions), then replace it with a new (short) length of rubber tubing, available from any auto supply store. You'll also need to reconnect the incoming tube to the original position in place of the stopper. (See post #2 and images below for a better idea of what this all means.)

INSTRUCTIONS
See second post below for a detailed description of the Exhaust Depot method.

CAVEATS
1. THIS MOD DOES NOT INCREASE THE POWER OF THE ENGINE!
2. This mod has not been reported to throw any ECU codes (computer error messages) at this time, nor has it been reported to cause the engine to go into "limp mode".
3. It also does not appear to cause any danger to the engine or any of its parts, based on extensive discussion, but as with any mod any risk is entirely your own!

PARTS & TOOLS:
You need a 3/16" vacuum T connector (see photo #6 below). These are reportedly available from any Wal-Mart, AutoZone or Pep Boys. (Anybody got a link for online purchase?)

You'll also need three plastic tie-offs of the kind typically used to tie off hoses and plastic components under the hood. (See pics 14-16 below.) (Anybody got a link for online purchase?)

Finally, you'll need a plastic 3/16" cap to cover the open port nozzle on the valve. (More info needed here, please!)

For tools you need some pliers (to pry off the hose) and a straight razor or box cutter (or similar). Any sharp knife will probably do, but a smaller-sized one is probably best.

ADDITIONAL NOTEWORTHY THREADS AND LINKS

The initial discussion thread about this mod may be found here:
Ok here you go, first free mod

Some particularly informative posts from that thread:
Ok here you go, first free mod

MTS posted some excellent, well-labelled photographs showing his alternate approach in this post:
Ok here you go, first free mod
(I think my images below compliment his: You should look at ALL of them before doing this mod!)


ALTERNATE APPROACHES
Lil Goat posted an excellent summary of an alternate installation below, which came from this thread here:

Some users feel that method is easier because it doesn't require the T-connector. Others feel it's more noticable and might be picked out by a dealer under a questionable warranty situation. You have to decide which approach is better for you. More discussion on this alternate approach may be found in this thread in the very helpful posts by MTS and Lil Goat below.

David Dougherty came up with another approach using a Y connector instead of a T connector to facilitate switching back for dealer service under warranty. He included an image and a description, which may be seen in this post:
EDAL Anti-Lag Mod

MSG_McKee uploaded his pics from using David Dougherty's approach, with the slight change of painting the "Y" connector black for additional stealthiness.
Ok here you go, first free mod

OUR THANKS
Our thanks for all the details in this description go out to Hector at Exhaust Depot, MTS & Lil Goat for their alternate approach, and Frank I for some timely advice on phrasing.

__________________
2007 Aggressive GXP w/5spd, Monsoon & OnStar
Mods: EDAL, stub antenna
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida