Image #11: Pulling Extra Slack on Hose #1
This step may not be necessary in some vehicles, depending on how much slack the installer left on this hose at the factory. In my case Hector had to briefly pull gentle on the hose to bring in maybe another inch of slack. Don't pull from the spot where Hector is holding it in this image, though! The image doesn't quite show this, but if you look closely just above Hector's hand you can see where another (much larger) hose crosses over Hose #1, and just past that point you can see where both of these hoses are held in place on the front of the engine block by a small plastic clamp. That's where you want to do the "pulling", and you'll want to pull very gently. The clamp is open at the front for Hose #1, so if you're not careful here it can come unsteated from its clamp (just push it aft so it snaps back in). (See
this post for an image of the bracket that holds this hose, and where the slack is coming from.)
Image #12: Reconnecting Hose #1
In this image we see Hector connecting Hose #1 to the T-connector.
Image #13: Close-up of Charge Air Bypass Valve (Solenoid) After Mod
Here we see a close-up of the valve after the mod is basically complete (the tie-offs have not yet been connected). We can see Hose #1 crossing over the valve and entering the T-connector, and we can see the blue nozzle plug covering the place where Hose #1 used to be connected. You can also clearly see how the T-connector fits into the sliced Hose #3 (this is the hose you would have to replace in order to undo this mod). (Boy, you know your hood's been open too long when a dead bug falls onto your engine block!)
Image #14: Overall Shot and View of Tie-Downs
It's a bit hard to see because they're black and are against a black background, but in this image the plastic tie-downs have been wrapped around all bits of rubber tube that go into the T-connector (two parts of Hose #3 and the end of Hose #1). Use the box cutter or knife you used earlier to cut the ends of the plastic ties off above their locking mechanisms. (Hector at ED also recommends zip-tying the plugged nozzle where Hose #1 used to connect to the valve.)
Image #15: All Done!
All finished, and the engine cover has been replaced. Notice also that the plastic tie-downs has been sawed off above their locking points. (Dang, did I remember to get that dead bug out of there?!)
