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Old 12-10-2012, 03:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob the elder View Post
Let us know your assessment of the quality of the "house" brand parts please.
uh, they are heavy and shiny...

Seriously, not having used hub assemblies like this before, I can tell you that they feel solid, I am able to turn them, and they don't make any noise. and hopefully there are going to be some pictures with this post.







only took a few tries to get the pics on here, the last one has what could be a part # or something similar from the manufacturer, if someone has a timken or whatever laying around perhaps they could compare that, and when I take my old ones off I will certainly check.

If you'd like to see the assembly in some other alluring pose, just ask, I'm sure it would be willing.

Last edited by Jekl; 12-10-2012 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jekl View Post
uh, they are heavy and shiny...

Seriously, not having used hub assemblies like this before, I can tell you that they feel solid, I am able to turn them, and they don't make any noise. and hopefully there are going to be some pictures with this post.







only took a few tries to get the pics on here, the last one has what could be a part # or something similar from the manufacturer, if someone has a timken or whatever laying around perhaps they could compare that, and when I take my old ones off I will certainly check.

If you'd like to see the assembly in some other alluring pose, just ask, I'm sure it would be willing.
LOL

Thanks for the in depth review.

I was thinking more about after you get a couple thousand miles on them and the wheels dont fall off.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:26 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Carbon Sky View Post
Well at least the "wheel bearing" part is contained in that hub that is bolted on by the 3 bolts. On many cars where the wheel bearing is pressed into the hub, you'd need a shop press, which most home mechanics do not have. .
I hate unitized hubs!

Try finding them in 20 years if they weren't used on a lot of models. The hubs for the 88 Fieros are around $400 now and almost impossible to find (although Chinese replacements are easy - and inferior).

Hopefully the Kappa hubs are common to more than just the Kappas - anyone know for sure?

And you don't always need a press to replace separate bearings. There is normally a cut out in the seat to allow you to use a small drift to remove them, and a normal installation tool, not a press is sufficient for reassembly - done tons of them on all sorts of different cars.

Where you do need a BIG press is getting certain kinds of hubs off a splined shaft. Put 14 tons on one wire wheel axle once to break it free.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hopefully the Kappa hubs are common to more than just the Kappas - anyone know for sure?
I'd answer that question WITH a question... How many different GM cars have the same bolt spacing as ours? Answer: bugger-all.

I did try Google and eBay searches on "FW280 bearing" all I got back were Kappa's
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:40 PM   #20 (permalink)
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All my research says these are just for us.

Hopefully these don't suck, and then are still available when I make that decision so I can buy more and put them on a shelf.

after I get the old ones off I'm gonna see about getting them repacked also, if that is even doable, just because I like making my life difficult.

I am no stranger to having a car with hard to find parts being a former Subaru SVX owner, I seem to seek out cars that are destined to be a problem for me.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:23 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Replaced Hub Assembly now have ABS Light On

I just replaced the driver's side hub assembly and now my ABS light is on. It wasn't on before I replaced the hub. Anybody have any ideas why the light is on and how to reset it. I disconected the battery for 1 hour but the light was on when I reconnected to battery.

Help!!!!
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MeanGXP-R View Post
I just replaced the driver's side hub assembly and now my ABS light is on. It wasn't on before I replaced the hub. Anybody have any ideas why the light is on and how to reset it. I disconected the battery for 1 hour but the light was on when I reconnected to battery.

Help!!!!
You didn't mention checking the obvious like whether the ABS sensor is plugged in, or damaged when removing it from one hub and installing it onto the new one?

On more than one car in the past, after 5+ years in 4 seasons on daily drivers, it was often impossible to remove the ABS sensor from the hub without breaking it.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:58 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wspohn View Post
I hate unitized hubs!

Try finding them in 20 years if they weren't used on a lot of models. The hubs for the 88 Fieros are around $400 now and almost impossible to find (although Chinese replacements are easy - and inferior).

Hopefully the Kappa hubs are common to more than just the Kappas - anyone know for sure?

And you don't always need a press to replace separate bearings. There is normally a cut out in the seat to allow you to use a small drift to remove them, and a normal installation tool, not a press is sufficient for reassembly - done tons of them on all sorts of different cars.

Where you do need a BIG press is getting certain kinds of hubs off a splined shaft. Put 14 tons on one wire wheel axle once to break it free.
Yah, I've seen pictures of those before, but any wheel bearing I've ever actually replaced that was pressed into the hub (over 10 different models), was pressed into a smooth bore with no key slot, held in place with an expansion c-ring on each side.

Yah, I bought myself a cheap small shop press IIRC from Princess Auto (Kinda like a Canadian Harbor Freight) because I figured I wouldn't need it very much, and wouldn't use it much, and it would get the job done. A decade later, it's still kicking and working great. It has come in handy on multiple transmission rebuilds to get gears and what not on and off the input/main shafts. It's gotten the job done easily so many times, I see no reason to shop for a better one yet. It's one of the few tools I have that's not "professional grade", i.e. Snap-On, Ingersol Rand, Miller, Sata, etc.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:27 AM   #24 (permalink)
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ABS Light is Out!!!



The ABS light stayed on after replacing the hub, sensor is part of the hub. When I turned to car on after replacing the hub the light was on and would not go off. Did not drive the car until today, was going to take it to a mechanic today. As I backed out of my driveway the light went off and has stayed off. I guess I just had to drive the car to get it to go off. Next time I will know better should drive it first not just start it up and move it a few feet, how dumb can that be!
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:30 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Since I'm a new Sol owner and work at GM I can help with some information.

The bearings are common frt & rear, PN 10345966, and retail for $455.30 each and are not used on any other vehicle.

The bearing is a GEN 3 style, meaning the inner flange is rolled so there is no way it can be serviced, throwaway.

I can say that our bearing specs today are greatly imporoved from just a few years ago including how they are integrated into the vehicle by using slingers and caps to protect them.

I realize that does not help with past vehicles but it's evolution.

I also question why a $30 production bearing is marked up 12X for service but nothing I can control and is common by all OEM's.

A non OEM bearing is vastly inferior in material, sealing and overall performance but know a lot of folks that use them. Chances are they will need to be replaced!
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:03 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I was with you up until the vastly inferior part. Seems to me you can go the other direction on that as well, and get vastly superior non oem bearings as well, or at least equivalent. Somebody makes those bearings for gm, (last I heard it was timken) and I can buy timken bearings for $175 each.

That being said, the bearings I just purchased, are in all likelihood, vastly inferior.
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:57 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Let me clarify:

Most original bearing suppliers provide parts to GM for 5-10 years (varies by platform), after that the aftermarket companies take over.

For bearings there are two types of aftermarket suppliers, the name brand companies (Timken, KBI, SKF) and the cheap China (or equivalant) parts.

My comment about an "inferior part" was directed to the China parts.

If the replacement part was made in China (or equivalant) I would not put that on my any car I own.

If it's a name brand company, you have a better chance that it meets some level of performance but it is still not as good as the original OEM part even if that was marginal to begin with.

The Kappa part was manufactured by FAG/Iljin.

Last edited by marq; 12-16-2012 at 05:11 AM.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:58 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Another bearing comment:

Prior to 2010 wheel bearings were covered 5yr/100K miles but changed to 3yr/36K miles for the 10MY.

So, the 06 & 07's are out of warranty but 08 & 09's would still be covered.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:23 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Hello everyone, Jekl did you finally installed the wheel hubs of 215 dlls the pair? Do you recommend that ones?

I need to buy one but the OEM are really expensive, around 250 dlls each one, but I do not want to save some bucks and then having issues with my car. I live in Mexico and some roads here are really bumpy :S.

Any recommendations? Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-10-2013, 10:07 AM   #30 (permalink)
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dazueta - please note Jekl's post is a year old so you may not get a response.
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