Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

Caliper and hub paint time. Questions...

5K views 35 replies 12 participants last post by  lorennerol 
#1 ·
Getting ready (once the Fiero is off the jack stands...) to paint the rusting hubs and calipers on my Sky. I'm trying not to rant about the fact that they are rusting (car has <24,000 miles and is has been in the rain less than 10 times). Anyway...I don't want to make a major project out of this, so pulling and stripping the calipers for powder coat is out (unless it's really simple). That said, any advice on paint (brand, etc.),prep, application, etc. is welcome. I'm going to stick with the stock gray or maybe black on the hubs and the try to match the body color red (it's a 2008 Sky) on the calipers.

Thanks!

Loren
 
#2 ·
I used the epoxy caliper paint kit and had very good luck with it. Sticks well, lasts well. Every couple of years it might need a touch up but it holds up very well on our Sky.
 
#7 ·
Make sure to use a scotch brite pad to scuff up the surface before painting. Get every nook and cranny. Blow off with compressed air if possible and use a good cleaner after this. I prefer to use alcohol as it is the least toxic and does a good job cleaning. I used the Duplicolor liquid caliper paint in 2007 and just repainted everthing a few weeks ago as I had the entire car up on jack stands. Used a brush and no brush marks show. It does chip from the occasional stone that gets kicked up and tends to flake off. I touch mine up every few months. I would never pressure wash mine as I would be afraid it would all come off. Wish I had had used the epoxy. The epoxy is the best choice. The epoxy only has a window of time to brush on before it all hardens so either jack up the entire car or mix in precise batches. It can be tedious getting all the recesses in the calipers. I also painted the hubs in 2007 with a dark metallic spray (not a caliper paint) and these have held up better than the calipers. I don't remember what brand but probably a Duplicolor product.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I've had very good results with VHT Caliper Paint it comes in a spray can so you don't have to mix anything . Each spring I spray a little in a small glass container a brush touch any chips I may have . The most important thing is to get the caliper clean I wash it off with Dawn dish soap and a good scrub brush to remove any grease then I clean it again with brake parts cleaner and blow everything off with a good shot of air . Just to add I've used my power washer on the caliper with no harmful effects ie. paint chipping off
 
#10 ·
Prep it like suggested above. I used heat paint on mine. I choose flat black, but it comes in all colors. I used spray paint, but what I did was spray it into the cap and then I brushed it on the calipers. Four years later, the calipers look great. It is flat black though.lol
 
#13 · (Edited)
To prep the calipers and brackets for painting, has anyone tried soaking them in muriatic acid? This assuming the calipers are still sealed, brake hose and bleeder valve still attached as not to etch internal metal sealing surfaces. The caliper brackets are easily removed to submerse separately in a bucket.

Muriatic acid strips metal bare, I assume it would prep the metal perfectly for a rust-free surface that is etched for perfect paint adhesion. It's what is used to prepare metal for POR-15 and similar products. The metal is so perfectly prepared that I am not sure a primer is needed. The Duplicolor paint kit does not require a primer either.

Muriatic acid is sold by the gallon very cheap in home improvement centers.
 
#14 ·
Muriatic acid is sold by the gallon very cheap in home improvement centers.
Seems like more work to do than cleaning them in place, but sounds like it would work.

Just one point, the Muriatic acid (AKA Hydrochloric acid, AKA Hydrogen Chloride solution) sold in home improvement centers as Kleen-Strip Green, at least around my way, is more dilute now (~25% IIRC) so not sure how well this would work. For higher strength, you could try Pool Supplies stores.

But in any case Hydrochloric acid is VERY nasty on skin and will cause acid burns very easily. Take extreme precautions if you use this stuff.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I used a Dremel (actually a die grinder on my air compressor) with a flapper wheel to prep mine 7 years ago and painted with G2 caliper paint and they still look new. Acid scares me and I wouldn't use it.

http://www.dremeleurope.com/general/en/flapwheel9-5mm-207-ocs-p/

Tried previously with Duplicolor paint and it wouldn't stay on...
 
#19 · (Edited)
Acid scares me and I wouldn't use it.
I too once felt the same. But on one project I was desperate and opted to try it. It's been my first choice for rust removing projects since. And it is so cheap too. For many of my projects I bought 2 different sizes of construction mixing pans from Home Depot, great for larger flat pieces.


It sounds so much more scary than it really is. Like everything else "chemical", respect it and all is well.
 
#21 ·
I would never attemp to put the caliper in an acid. What is it going to do to the seals and pistons.
If the acid leaks past the piston seals and etches the cylinder walls you will have issues with sealing and braking. Are the Pistons aluminum or steel? What reaction will it have with the brake fluid in the caliper and other seals.
 
#23 ·
I would never attempt to put the caliper in an acid. What is it going to do to the seals and pistons.
If the acid leaks past the piston seals and etches the cylinder walls you will have issues with sealing and braking. Are the Pistons aluminum or steel? What reaction will it have with the brake fluid in the caliper and other seals.
:agree::agree: So I have to ask how bad are they ? It seems to me if your going through that much trouble ,the acid bath ,why not just have them glass beaded ?
 
#22 · (Edited)
SolPainter, You bring up a good point. I can say that muriatic acid is for iron and steel, NOT aluminum or copper. The acid does not affect plastics and rubber. It is sold in a plastic bottle.

This afternoon and evening I put my front brakes where my mouth is. I had previously cleaned the calipers and brackets which indicated I had to do something more for a good look. I first submerged one sealed caliper into a muriatic acid solution (still attached to the brake hose) but not including the brake hose connection because of the copper washer there. It turned out great so I did the other one along with the front caliper brackets. Being iron, they all turned out great. I power dried them and brush-painted them one coat so far. It's all looking real good.

Hopefully when I am back on the road in a month or so, I'll have confirmed it's all good. If not, I'll replace the two front calipers and be at the same point. They are not expensive, wondering if I should have done that to begin with. I've got the wheels being power-coated, then new tires, also replacing the cloth seat skins with leather ($675 new black with perforated insets), and unfortunately a big distraction from the project, upcoming family commitments. It looks like mid-June when I'll be back on the road.
 
#25 ·
Glass beading is a process much like sand blasting except it's not as abrasive and leaves a nice finish on the piece you are cleaning .I've used it for years on parts from my bikes to my cars and am currently cleaning up some aluminum valve covers for my Chevelle I also did my Solstice valve/cam cover before I had it powder coated . I've had parts glass beaded then clear coated them to keep them fresh looking just another way of cleaning up a part without using caustic chemicals .
 
#26 ·
I understand you. But to bead blast, don't you need to disconnect the caliper and remove the rubber seals and all so they don't get damaged from bead blasting?

The acid bath is done with the caliper still attached to the brake line. It's awfully simple and easy. When the acid bath is done, it's raw etched metal, a surface ideal for paint adhesion.

I'll have to take a few pics and post my efforts.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Here are a couple pics taken with just the first coat of paint, the final coat tomorrow. It's not a fancy red paint job. I just wanted it to look stock-ish to resemble the rear brakes.


You can see the caliper attached to the brake hose, hung on the lower control arm to dry.
I acid-bathed the caliper right there in a bucket....no big deal.
Strange how the car looks so taken apart without the fender liner and quarter panel.
 
#29 ·
The hubs are definitely untreated and will rust. Not a big deal except for cosmetically.

The calipers shouldn't rust like that (mine did not), though I have seen a number of reports from other owners of areas of rust on them. I think you hit the proverbial nail...

If they were galvanized or otherwise treated, it wasn't done properly.
 
#31 ·
GM just doesn't seem to get, ever, that this kind of thing costs them repeat sales. I love this car, but it is soooo frustrating in a bunch of small ways...cupholders, door sills, soft radio faceplate plastic, sagging seats, failed seat bolts, ignition switch (mine failed before the recall and I paid $600+ for the tow and repair), passenger airbag issue, dash rattles, etc. All this stuff adds up to me never considering a Corvette, at least one built since the mid-70s.

My G2 kit arrived today, red for the calipers. Still waiting on the Duplicolor kit for the hubs. Fiero wheels are done and am going to get the tires remounted today, so I will be able to move it off the lift and start on the Sky.
 
#32 · (Edited)
My front brakes are back together, front calipers acid-bathed & painted to resemble the stock unpainted rear brake calipers.
Sorry guys and gals for my next comment. If there was some machining and a name like the Corvette has, that would be different. But these are just ugly rough cast iron thugs. I don't want to show them off in a flashy color. The gray color will be friendly with general dirt. as well as matching the rear calipers.




For reference, here is one of my unpainted rear calipers.
BTW: I worked on a 2005 or 2006 Volvo recently. Strange that the rear brake calipers are the exact same ones used on my Solstice.
 
#33 ·
Paint color: Yeah, to each their own. That's one of the things I like about cars; beauty is truly in the eye of the beholder.

Process: How far did you strip them down and did you acid bath them with the line connected? Any pics of that? Sounds like less work than hand-cleaning the rust and grime off all those nooks and crannies.
 
#34 · (Edited)
How far did you strip them down and did you acid bath them with the line connected? Any pics of that? Sounds like less work than hand-cleaning the rust and grime off all those nooks and crannies.
My muriatic acid bathing was done with the caliper attached to the brake line. Because of the copper washer at the brake line over-reacting with the acid, I submerge up to the washer.

Because the acid solution was diluted for conservative reasoning with consideration to the piston and all still in place, I did need to brush the loose stuff off the parts about once every 20 minutes. I have what looks like a really big toothbrush (maybe it's for scrubbing dentures) and also a retired tooth brush. Between the two, I easily get into tight areas. When it's time to handle the parts, I place them in a separate bucket of fresh water and scrub them in there, then place them back into the bucket of acid. Repeat as necessary.

I keep all our old toothbrushes for all kinds of such projects. I reshape them at various angles as the project calls for by heating the handle over the kitchen stove until it bends freely, then let cool to have interesting configurations.

If you are concerned of working with acid, the home improvement centers Home Depot & Menards sells a home-friendly version here.
Picture taken at a Menards store.
 
#36 ·
Finally got this done yesterday. First some pics, then some thoughts and tips.





I had one caliper that was rusting and both front rotors had rust on the hubs and in the vent holes. I used a combination of 3" wire wheel on a drill and a Dremel with wire wheel to get what those would reach, but I couldn't find a Dremel bit that would get inside the vent holes. I toyed with the idea of removing them and getting them media blasted, but really wanted to get the project done this weekend. I ended up buying a 1/2" pipe wire brush, cutting the plastic handle off, and putting it on the drill- it worked great, and was inexpensive.

I used Duplicolor metallic silver on the hubs/rotors. It's a thin, runny paint that brushed on easily. It comes with a stir stick, a small brush, a can of brake cleaner, and 8 ounces of paint for about $20. For the calipers I used body-matched G2 paint. This is a two-part epoxy paint. Once you mixed the reactant into the paint you have 4-6 hours before it hardens in the can. The kit includes a brush, stir stick, a can of brake cleaner, and four ounces of paint. I started with the Duplicolor brake cleaner and ran out before I was done. I used the G2 can to finish up.

I put two coats of silver on the rotors, then two coats of red on the calipers. While the calipers dried a bit, I put a third coat of silver on. Then I did a third coat on the calipers, plus a partial fourth.

Usage: Less than 1/3 of the Duplicolor and about 3/4 of G2. Four ounces doesn't sound like much, but it's plenty.

Results: Well, it's really hard to get around things like the wire springs on the rear calipers and I didn't remove them from the car, but I'm happy with how it turned out. I got a little red paint on places I didn't want (like those springs), but once the wheels are on I'll be the only one who notices. All the visible rust is gone and sealed. The calipers, with 3+ coats of the G2 product, look a lot like powder coat- I'm really pleased with how the G2 paint ended up with a thick, smooth look.

Clean up: Save yourself some hassle and wear disposable gloves. If you are dumb like me then use acetone (nail polish remover) to clean up your hands.

Longevity: We'll see...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top