I figured I would start a more recent thread to help out the SOLSTICE handy(wo)man uh oh, ok mechanics new and experienced who have recently joined the community or are considering a way to address the sickness some of us suffer.
No I ain't gonna play Tim Allen and no way Al Borland, Al got busted
Never enough tools, even with Snap-on and Popular Mechanics sets,
I do not work for any tool mfg or get stuff from Snap-on
Speaking of metrics, do not try to convince a soon to be University Graduate or a Tech School Community College Grad that 32mm has an SAE equivalent of 1 1/4 inches.
If you are really sharp you would have noticed 30mm is 1 1/4 inches.
To some of you I know this is redundant, but think of the newcomer who is wondering about that $42 oil change after shopping the Mobil One rebate at Advance, Auto Zone or O'Reily's.
A standard socket like this will work for the oil filter cap but the actual tool is about half the depth of a standard socket so if you desire, most any machine shop could cut it down.
The socket pictured below was tight, so I kept it.
The tool tray the 1/2 inch drive 1 1/4 inch socket for my first Solstice oil changes is resting on, goes to my "heavy" tool box. This box holds 1/2 inch drives and above and numerous odd ball sockets that don't get regular use.
We are talking some really odd 32nds so use this link again to see what I mean by SAE/Metric equivalent.
Here is the rest of the oil filter cap tool set up. My torque wrench starts at 20 lbs so I guessed 16lbs cap torque by feel since my 0-25 lb dial torque driver for gun smithing is 3/8 drive.
The oil change is one of the biggest bangs for the buck even if you have to buy some tools, but plan your tool purchases if you are just starting out. I hope in the next week or so to have you well on your way if you are a novice.
So if you can find the oil filter cap and position the set up below, then I think you are on your way to finding that elusive oil pan drain plug
Somebody help me here, I didn't take a pic of the drain plug location
Sorry for not keeping up. Been busy and I am a little discouraged at the lack of interest and lack of contributing posts, so come on, just like on the show contributions are welcome and if accepted get free BBQ
Drive on ramps are a must and mine I bought for the SLY are BLITZ tm Rhino Ramps Made in USA 1-877-922-5489 Model #11903.
The key is the ramps are no taller than 7 inches and accomodate a tire width of 8 inches.
I think that people were being polite and trying not to horn in on your instructive post.
I have been paying my dealer roughly $65 for synthetic oil changes, and that's with a coupon every time. I'm out of coupons. I can get a case (6 Qts) of Mobil 1 at Costco for $32, a filter at AutoZone for $8.
Assuming the Sol takes 5 qts. ...
5 cases and 6 filters (6 complete changes) would cost me $208
vs.
paying dealer $480 for 6 full-price changes.
I just haven't felt like the hassle of disposing of the oil, but it seems like there are tons of places around here that take it for free.
I do my own changes, with the 5 quart jug from Wally World and filter from anywhere that has one, usually Advance Auto. I use a floor jack, raising the side which puts the drain plug lowest, but paying special attention that the lifting is happening completely on the lifting plug. Total cost with Mobil 1 is about $40.
The Sol takes about 4.5 quarts of oil, of the 5 quarts that are in that jug.
__________________
VIN 101292, DOB 9/13/05, picked up on 11/23. In my garage, where it belongs.
Best comment so far about my Aggressive Sol, from a driver of a red S2000 in the small town I live near, "I thought I was going to have the coolest car for some time. Now, I know I am wrong!"
I haven't crawled around my Sol yet, so this thread is a good heads up for changing the oil. It's strange that something that should be easy is made to be so hard. I have been using Mobil 1 full synth in both my Triumph motorcycles for over 7 years now. Doing my own oil changes on my bikes have saved me considerable amounts of money.
I think it would be nice to post a complete list of material needed to execute the oil change. From special tools, to oil grade, and oil filter part number. Also it would be nice to have someone point out exactly where the lift pads are on the frame. Thanks.
Hey great response and I do not consider responses to be horn in
I got caught up in the election as a volunteer and then the day job went busy nuts.
On top of that we had a not to be missed wedding invite over Christmas at ALABAMA Music Hall Of Fame, then an elder care issue arose requiring us to make a move from Alabama to NC starting the day after the wedding.
In the meantime, SLY went to stay in Piedmont SC November 6 for what was supposed to be two weeks. Picked the car up 9AM Saturday December 20 from a very busy Randy (Dave was in MI at the show). In short I did not even have the car to get the shot I thought I had of the oil plug from underneath.
Today was windy when I got back on some shots, but first things first. The end nut for the turbo actuator rod was stuck tight. Hoping a warm up would help, I got started on removing a HOT heat shield and the nut popped free easy as pie. The "ROD MOD" was causing some problems with the DDM tune and PROTOTYPE's
Here is what I sent Dave today,
"Dave,
Truly a happy New Year's Eve and New Year.
It worked with no stumbles or failures.
I warmed up the turbo and while warm removed the heat shield and when I got on the nut, it popped loose.
New position is at the halfway point of rod adjustment. edited ###mph in 3rd at 5k or 6k something, was paying attention to the road I was running out of!
I need more road!
As a tool dealer for 20 years I can only say that if a car is metric, put the SAE stuff back in the tool box. You'll be safer. An exception would be 3/4" sockets for the 19mm wheel lugs. The 32mm socket is dirt cheap at parts stores and a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a 32mm socket and having it machined. The Rhino ramps ARE a good deal. NEVER forget --- the right tool for the right job ----------------- regardless of brand!!
__________________ Redline (pre-halt), Pearl, Black/Red
complete option list except auto, 3" MF cat-back,
painted calipers, owner installed power lock buttons, muc uprated springs, S.P. downpipe, Wester's tune
Well, my newest addition to my Sol was a GMPP cold air intake - wasn't much to write about there as it was a really straight forward job. I did have to buy a new tool to do it though - a Torx 30 socket but really no big deal there.
I have new wheels on the way as well as Norm's side skirts. I will be installing the skirts myself but I am going to leave the tires to the professionals - once the roads are clear enough to drive my baby without fear of raging cowboys in 4x4's in the snow plowing into me.
Will keep you posted and I am sure that I can come up with a DIY thread to show how it is done although I know it has been done before by DeepblueGXP (I think). I think there is always room for a different slant on how things get done.
Believe it or not, I have learned so much on this forum about tools and our cars.... and even about the nature of people and group think.
All the best in 2009!
__________________ Miner - Sly, black leather, fully loaded except smokers and OnStar
(ordered Feb.27/06 - VIN1G2MB35B17Y118341 - Received Dec. 29/06) Miner's Mod Page
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
new and experienced who have recently joined the community or are considering a way to address the sickness some of us suffer.
1-877-922-5489 Model #11903.
safe
HAPPY NEW YEAR my friend 
Linear Mode
