Coupe: How to remove tail lights/change bulb - Page 4 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #46 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryGuy View Post
Hey Bosch are you an ex-Bosch Employee? (Just curious...cuz I am...lol)

Cheers!
No, she took that name from a series of dectetive novels (believe teh main characters name was Harry Bosch)

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post #47 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
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No, she took that name from a series of dectetive novels (believe teh main characters name was Harry Bosch)

Michael Connelly’s the author of Harry Bosch novels. The main character is a detective named Hieronymus Bosch, who uses the shortened version of the name, Harry. He was named after an Early Netherlandish painter whose work is known for its use of fantastic imagery to illustrate moral and religious concepts. Most famous work is likely "The Garden of Earthly Delights." Somewhat disturbing images. Here is a list of all the Harry Bosch novels, in publication order, not in Harry's life order...

1.The Black Echo
2.The Black Ice
3.The Concrete Blond
4.The Last Coyote
5.The Poet
6.Trunk Music
7.Angels Flight
8.A Darkness More Than Night
9.City of Bones
10.Lost Light
11.The Narrows
12.The Closers
13.Echo Park
14.The Overlook
15.The Brass Verdict
16.Nine Dragons
17.The Reversal
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post #48 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 02:27 PM
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How to change a solstice tail light bulb

1. From inside the trunk remove the 2 bolts that are holding the tail light housing in place. There is 1 in the front and 1 in the back. It will be difficult to remove with a traditional wrench because of the limited spacing. I used a vice-grip.

2. Then pull the whole tail light housing upwards in order to pop the 2 pins holding the housing to the car frame. Do not worry about breaking the housing; its tougher than it looks.

3. Then unscrew the wiring from the tail light housings to get at the bulb. It will be a small turn.

4. There will be clips on either side of the bulb that you need to slightly pull away from the bulb.

5. Pull the old bulb out, and put the new one in.
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post #49 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-31-2012, 12:21 PM
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Solstice tail lights

After a lot of playing today, I figured out how to remove the tail light housing. First the two bolts found in the trunk need to be removed. Some references say these are torx screws, but mine were a hex head. There are 2 clips still holding the housing in place, so lift it straight up. There will be resistance at first. Then it's just a normal replacing of the bulb.
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post #50 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttoolmant View Post
After a lot of playing today, I figured out how to remove the tail light housing. First the two bolts found in the trunk need to be removed. Some references say these are torx screws, but mine were a hex head. There are 2 clips still holding the housing in place, so lift it straight up. There will be resistance at first. Then it's just a normal replacing of the bulb.
Just to point out - this thread is about coupes. Much different (and more difficult) procedure.

Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 10:45 AM
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After working on cars for 35 years, I have to totally agree with you that the engineer's have no clue about real world issues. I believe the engineers design the car for the assembly line and not real world repairability
Engineers are not stupid. They don't intentionally make this difficult. They are often under budget constraints and have to "settle" some designs in some cases. Think outside the box when you make remarks like that.
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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 03:14 PM
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Well, we had a taillamp burn out this week and I need to make decision to either change it myself, or let the dealer do it. I want to make sure I understand the process before choosing. Can someone verify if the following is correct?

Remove rear wheel/tire and set aside

Remove inner fender ( wheelwell liner) (after pre-purchasing "Christmas tree" fasteners which have to be removed to remove the liner)

Imitate a proctologist and insert arm WAAAAAY up inside the rear fender until you feel two large wing nuts

Remove said nuts from bolts and set aside

Crawl out from under the car, pull tail light assembly back to remove from COUPE

Remove and Replace bad bulb.

Reverse the process to complete re-assembly.

Move to other side and tackle that while your in mechanic mode ( optional)

OR take it to the dealer (how many hours labor? How much money?)

Have I summed this up and can anyone confirm the process and/or cost?

Thanks for the help.
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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSOLcoupe#26 View Post
Well, we had a taillamp burn out this week and I need to make decision to either change it myself, or let the dealer do it. I want to make sure I understand the process before choosing. Can someone verify if the following is correct?

Remove rear wheel/tire and set aside

Remove inner fender ( wheelwell liner) (after pre-purchasing "Christmas tree" fasteners which have to be removed to remove the liner)

Imitate a proctologist and insert arm WAAAAAY up inside the rear fender until you feel two large wing nuts

Remove said nuts from bolts and set aside

Crawl out from under the car, pull tail light assembly back to remove from COUPE

Remove and Replace bad bulb.

Reverse the process to complete re-assembly.

Move to other side and tackle that while your in mechanic mode ( optional)

OR take it to the dealer (how many hours labor? How much money?)

Have I summed this up and can anyone confirm the process and/or cost?

Thanks for the help.
Holy cow! My left rear turn signal had the decency to burn out at 35,800 miles, and I dropped it by the dealership and let them deal with it under the bumper-to-bumper. I figured I had saved myself some effort, but I had no idea. Really looking forward to replacing the right one.




2009 DEEP SOLSTICE COUPE N.A. MANUAL TRANNY PURCHASED
NEW YEAR'S EVE 2009

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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 01:04 PM
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Well, with much trepidation, I decided to do this myself. Twenty minutes later, I am VERY happy I didn't take this to the dealer! Pulled the wheel off, undid six fasteners holding the inner fender, pulled it away from the wheel well, and promptly replaced the reverse lamp with the taillamp while wondering why anybody on the forum mentioned wingnuts...

Tested the turn signal, which still did not work. I discovered the "slap my forehead" error,
replaced the reverse lamp, found and removed the two wingbolts, not wingnuts, pulled the taillight housing from the topside, made the swap and reversed the process to reassemble. Easy as cake!
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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 11:11 AM
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Exclamation PE note . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe 112 View Post
Holy cow! My left rear turn signal had the decency to burn out at 35,800 miles, and I dropped it by the dealership and let them deal with it under the 'bumper-to-bumper'. I figured I had saved myself some effort, but I had no idea. Really looking forward to replacing the right one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSOLcoupe#26 View Post
Well, with much trepidation, I decided to do this myself. Twenty minutes later, I am VERY happy I didn't take this to the dealer! Pulled the wheel off, undid six fasteners holding the inner fender, pulled it away from the wheel well, and promptly replaced the reverse lamp with the tail-lamp while wondering why anybody on the forum mentioned wingnuts...

Tested the turn signal, which still did not work. I discovered the "slap my forehead" error, replaced the reverse lamp, found and removed the two wing-bolts, not wingnuts, pulled the taillight housing from the topside, made the swap and reversed the process to reassemble. Easy as cake!
. . . save yourself a lot of time and frustration removing those black-plastic Xmas-tree, "Rear Wheelhouse Panel Liner" fasteners by simply 'decapitating' them with an X-acto knife with a #18 'Heavy-Weight, Wood-Chiseling' blade. These fasteners are "Use-Once, Press-In" types, not really meant for removal and reuse.

Though GM #1605396 X-mas fasteners are $3.47 ea. at the dealer, ask how I know, you can easily purchase the same fasteners, CAF #11146 - 25 for $3.18 from clipsandfasteners.com!



1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
1970:
'73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
2000: '09 "SLY" Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage-2" Turbo 5S 3.73P

Last edited by tekenaar; 04-06-2016 at 12:27 PM.
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 11:52 AM
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A lot of newer cars are hard to work on. I think the manufactures/dealers don't want you to work on them. I just changed some bulbs on my father's Subaru. Owners manual says take to dealer. I had to remove wheel well liners, assorted plastic under the hood to gain access. Pain in the butt but got everything changed. Can only imagine what the dealer would have charged to do the job.

So far, I have found my '06 Solstice easy to work but then it is not a coupe. With the EDAG hardtop on, I will have to figure out alternative ways to change rear bulbs if needed. Otherwise, I will have to unbolt the top, raise the rear of it enough to gain access to the light housings.
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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 04:39 PM
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Hmmm, I wonder . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by g8gt09 View Post
Engineers are not stupid. They don't intentionally make this difficult. They are often under budget constraints and have to "settle" some designs in some cases. Think outside the box when you make remarks like that.
An ADE's minimum job requirement S/B the ability to disassemble his design in a reasonable amount of time on any vehicle in which it is used without any special tools and without incurring any injuries using standard tools! . . . that's right, I said MINIMUM!!

I seem to remember a GM power steering pump mount used for a dozen years or so on their V8s where one of the mounting bracket's bolts was behind the pump's pulley, with no access except by removing the pulley. Any idiot could see that an access hole in the pulley at the time of its manufacture would have solved the problem!

Worried about pulley balance? . . . cut two holes in the pulley, 180° apart!



1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
1970:
'73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
2000: '09 "SLY" Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage-2" Turbo 5S 3.73P

Last edited by tekenaar; 03-27-2016 at 04:27 AM.
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 06:04 PM
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I Posted This a couple years ago Photos and Instructions:
Coupe tail light bulb replacement

Tekenaar is correct the fasteners are a pain to remove if you want to re-use. I made a tool out of rigid plastic that has a V notch in it that works pretty good. But would be a lot easier to cut and buy new.

A lifetime of sensibility ..... well it's time to do the un-sensible and impracticle, dog is just gonna have to walk .........

Pinkston Productions, CompuVisions, Inc.

Last edited by MPinkston; 04-05-2016 at 06:07 PM.
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