Ok, I ordered 2 BMW 2003 325ci jack inserts the other day along with some TireTotes since they snap in, fit the oval perfectly, and are cheap $7 each with shipping. I ordered these under the suggestions I had read from Corvette C5/C6 owners since the require inserts with the exact same oval size as us. They came in today a day earlier then scheduled via UPS (I know I was shocked too ). I took some pics of them in the bag, ripped them out and slid under my car as fast as I could.
Son of a B...
I don't understand how ANY insert would work with those front oval jack points. The body wraps around almost to the point of being up to the oval for an insert. If you put this insert in it would overlap the body panel bu nearly 1/2 an inch...
I had wanted to use the front jack points because they're the closest to the center of the car, and would balance best with the engine up front too. Ok so I slide my butt to the back of the car, low and behold GM put a little cut-out around the oval jacking point and it pops in perfectly clearing everything. My jack slides under the car and the insert (you need to clear 5.5" of clearance from the ground to the bottom of the jack insert once inserted) and I pump the jack once to lock it in place. I undid all the bolts on the front and rear wheels, and then jacked the car up enough that the rear and front wheels were off the ground. I put a jack stand under the back of the car just in case and went to work taking the tires off. Put my race tires on, dropped the car, torqued the bolts, rinse-repeat with the other side. Took my car for a 20 minute drive to scrub my new tires and warm them up. Got back and put the car in the garage, let it sit while I ate dinner and came back out to take my race tires off. Slid the jack under the car and
Son of a B...
My race tires are 245/40x18. Remember I said you need 5.5" of clearance to get under the jack insert? The difference between 40 and 45 tires is... 0.5" The jack slid out from under the car perfectly when I put the tires on but that was because the suspension didn't settle completely and left a good 0.5" of extra clearance. I had to literally rock the car slightly and slide the jack under, but I got it to work. I'm going to go get a new lower profile jack this weekend before I go to the next races and find I can't get my wheels off at the track.
So after that long winded story these items were perfect for the back jacking points but don't work at all for the front ones. Which is good since I only ordered 2.
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I have 2 standard issue Craftsman floor jacks with the big ass handles. They fit under the read but don't fit under the front. I need to drive onto bricks to give me more space.
I thought about the low rider floor jacks but damn, they aren't cheap.
Why don't YOU be a beta tester for me and locate the center of the car and have a plate welded on so you can lift both wheels at once. A little like NACRAP for sure but it would help you for racing and help me for rotations and wheel cleanings.
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These three pics show the front jack point and how close the hole is to the body panels. It also shows how much the insert overlaps the body panels if it was installed.
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These last 4 images show the insert installed in the rear jacking points with the cut-out GM put in place so they fit properly, the jack mated up to the insert, the car in the air, and the marks made on the insert from my jack.
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Yes it can, but my goal is to be able to lift each side by itself so I can quickly change tires once I arrive at auto-x events.
So, brentil, you _are_ able to get both tires off the ground using the rear jacking point, correct? I'm thinking that I will do my own tire rotation if I can.
--Chemist
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According to GM, the jack pads are only needed for the back of the car and were never intended for the front of the car.
Only two are required for lifting the entire car.
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And looking at this attachment, I'm wondering if the front slot is even supposed to be used.
Great find, I'm printing that out and putting it in my Glovebox. And whomever asked, it looks like the diff is not a good lifting point.
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Is there any reason why you can't jack from that I-beam/frame member, whatever, that sits just aft of the Differential. Also, can anyone tell me why that same black frame member has some of the holes in it plugged up with some kind of hard putty???
and now that I've jacked up the back end of my car at the differential and put my stands at the back jacking points, what would be the best way to get it back down???...
I don't see how this will lock into the frame.
Mine will sit in the frame with a 90 degree turn.
Also, what is that piece coming down from the bottom?
Mine are flat on the bottom.
Also, mine have a rubber pad on top where it contacts the frame.
I bought mine from GM (made by SPX Kent-Moore).
I have seen others on the internet for the Vette but more like the ones from GM than the ones on Ebay by the above link.
__________________ Envious Green, No XM/On-Star/Monsoon. With LSD, ABS, AC, Steel and Sand.
Picked up March 07, 2006....What A Ride!
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). I took some pics of them in the bag, ripped them out and slid under my car as fast as I could. 
good info brentil,thanks
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