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Gauge tickers broken?

4K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  DaveOC 
#1 ·
Don't think this is a high concern or a big deal with the car's performance but just today I looked at the gauges right after I turned off the ignition and was about to step out...

The gauge tickers? The red "clock hands" of our gauges ... I really suck with car terms, pardon.


The red "clock hands" (gauge tickers) were moving back and forth. Just maybe a centimeter or two (only the MPH and RPM tickers, not the fuel gauge) for about 5 times each.

They were in the normal place near the zero, so it wasn't like from 0 to the end and back, but could this be a electrical problem, pressure problem, any ideas? Like I said not very concerned but it might lead to further issues..

*Picture is from Google and not mine
 
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#2 ·
Don't think this is a high concern or a big deal with the car's performance but just today I looked at the gauges right after I turned off the ignition and was about to step out...

The gauge tickers? The red "clock hands" of our gauges ... I really suck with car terms, pardon.

The red "clock hands" (gauge tickers) were moving back and forth. Just maybe a centimeter or two (only the MPH and RPM tickers, not the fuel gauge) for about 5 times each.

They were in the normal place near the zero, so it wasn't like from 0 to the end and back, but could this be a electrical problem, pressure problem, any ideas? Like I said not very concerned but it might lead to further issues..

*Picture is from Google and not mine

It's normal, not a problem, it happens every time you turn off the car. The gauges are electric, and it is some sort of calibration.
 
#5 ·
Alright Dave, if you don't think so then there's no way I would even understand the process if you did find out. :glol: Once again appreciate the reply, in such a fast manner and thanks for setting my mind at ease. Hope to see you on the forum more! :thumbs: :)
 
#8 ·
Yeah, the RPM and MPH should sweep from left to right and back to zero each time you turn on the key. That is it's calibration. since there are NO actual cables then there is no manual calibration. I've never heard of one or both stuttering like that though but we are talking about Mehran's car then aren't we. a loose connection might throw it off and cause it to do that so I would look for it to do it again and possibly get worse.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I just went out and watched mine after I turned it off. Both tach and speedo went to "0" when the ignition was turned off.

After about 20 seconds (guess, since I didn't have my watch) both needles dropped down about 1/2 inch below the "0" twitched a bit up and down, and then finally came to rest.

It does it every time I turn the Solstice off, I tried 3 different times.

I think I'll take my stopwatch out and time it.

EDIT:

Now I know why so few people have mentioned this in the past.

Step 1: Open drivers door.
Step 2: Turn ignition off, start stopwatch
Step 3: DRLs turn off at approximately 21 seconds (after ignition turn off)
Step 4: Speedo and Tach do their little drop and dance (approximately 36 seconds after the ignition is turned off or the drivers door is opened, whichever is last, and both must occur).

This sequence is repeatable and predictable.

ASIDE: So much for learning something new today and wasting 45 minutes of Friday! :yay: :brentil: :willy:

DISCLAIMER: 1st 1K 2006 NA - YMMV



.
 
#12 ·
Charlie, I know that the MPH + RPM does a full sweep from right to left on start up, but it was twitching.

Dave- So maybe you thought I meant the sweep in the initial posts?

Unfortunately I did not get a chance to record it as my phone was low and it only lasted a few seconds. I'll be sure to have my phone handy and record if it appears again.

Thanks and will keep y'all posted!
 
#15 ·
Well - in the interests of adding known info to a new thread - this is how to set your needles back to zeros after having been REMOVED and replaced (i.e. when you replace your gauges faces). This takes into account what Dave just noticed about his gauges ;)

There's a real trick to getting the needles back on and aligned at zero (not as easy as you might think). This is my step-by-step guide. Follow it exactly and you'll be fine. (Whatever you do, don't replace the window/dash etc, until you've driven the car and made sure your needles are aligned correctly!)

1. Start with the front clear screen still off (wiring connector plugged into the back off the cluster if you removed it), ignition off.
2. VERY lightly place at least one needle(s) on shaft(s) at roughly the 0 position. DO NOT PRESS DOWN (you will need to adjust placement later). This will allow you to see what's happening in the next step.
3. Turn on ignition and then off again, wait ~20 secs for the needles to settle to their 'negative' position (below 0's).
4. Turn on ignition and fake start the car by turning key to the start position with foot off the clutch (if you have an autobox, I guess you can start the car and turn it off again). Needles will do the test sweep and return to zero.
5. Turn off ignition. During the 15secs or so while all needle shafts are at their zero positions, gently remove and replace needles to point exactly at zeros and push the needles down on shafts - but no more than halfway. NOTE: be careful, it's easy to knock/turn the stepper motor shafts round while doing this and you'll have to repeat. If you run out of time just do one or two of the needles at once.
6. Repeat steps from 3. above to verify that needles are set correctly. If not remove/repeat. If they are correct, then push down all the way. Then test again!
7. Clip clear screen back on and put everything back together.

(Doesn't matter how much gas you have, gas gauge will read 0 at step 5.)
 
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