It's mounted solid to the frame, I don't see why you can't, just don't slamp the lift into it.
__________________
BIX A BEL Cool, Ebony leather, Chrome, loaded, no XM/onstar Founding member of the "Lost Sols Club"
Deposit (1100) - 9/29/05, 1101/1102 - 2 Feb 06, 2500 - 7 Feb 06, 3000 - 8 Feb 06, 3100 - 13 Feb 06, 3300 - 13 Feb 06, 3400 - 14 Feb 06, 3800 - 24 Feb 06 (112544), 4000 - 24 Feb 06, 4150 - 24 Feb 06
dealer expected deliver 6 March, arrived 28 Feb, picked up that night w 3.2 miles on the clock :)
NOT WAITING ANY MORE! DDM Stage III Upgrade here
I lifted the entire rear end by lifting under the diff with a two ton floor jack. No problem at all.
__________________
AKA xmm
First 1000 Order VIN # 000218 - Time Stamp 2:35:20 DEEP with Steel/Sand leather,
88,000+ miles on the odo and still goin' strong- Silver side stripes - My wife named my car "Nittany" after Penn State, my Alma Mater
Reborn at the factory at 57,100 miles Proud Member - ICoD EHDoR&M WPASC
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NASSOA
Founding Member #41
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Goin' on a Turkey Run !!!"
Ex-miata-man.
Did you use something in between the tip of the jack's lifter and the diff. to avoid damaging the surface or you just put the jack straight on; metal to metal contact. I don't know if the diff is made of aluminum or iron?
Thanks.
__________________
______________________________________
Karr Former Solstice Owner #4141~SOLD
Ordering Mysterious GXP-R when available.
I lifted mine by putting the jack under the rear end, metal to metal. No problem at all.
__________________
06 SLY, Sand&Steel, Clear Bra, DDM Stage II Supercharger, TRI-Y long tube headers, high flow CAT, Magnaflow cat back dual exhaust, painted calipers w/decals, large bore throttle body, extra horn, flash-to-pass garage door opener
Metal to metal contact on mine also with no trouble.
__________________
AKA xmm
First 1000 Order VIN # 000218 - Time Stamp 2:35:20 DEEP with Steel/Sand leather,
88,000+ miles on the odo and still goin' strong- Silver side stripes - My wife named my car "Nittany" after Penn State, my Alma Mater
Reborn at the factory at 57,100 miles Proud Member - ICoD EHDoR&M WPASC
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NASSOA
Founding Member #41
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Goin' on a Turkey Run !!!"
I just finished my caliper paint job. The rear was the speediest on since all I had to do is lift the car through the rear end and whoala! both wheels where up.
Thanks for the tips guys.
__________________
______________________________________
Karr Former Solstice Owner #4141~SOLD
Ordering Mysterious GXP-R when available.
Anyone found a single lift point on the front yet?
__________________
BIX A BEL Cool, Ebony leather, Chrome, loaded, no XM/onstar Founding member of the "Lost Sols Club"
Deposit (1100) - 9/29/05, 1101/1102 - 2 Feb 06, 2500 - 7 Feb 06, 3000 - 8 Feb 06, 3100 - 13 Feb 06, 3300 - 13 Feb 06, 3400 - 14 Feb 06, 3800 - 24 Feb 06 (112544), 4000 - 24 Feb 06, 4150 - 24 Feb 06
dealer expected deliver 6 March, arrived 28 Feb, picked up that night w 3.2 miles on the clock :)
NOT WAITING ANY MORE! DDM Stage III Upgrade here
I was afraid to try so I used the two just behind the front wheels.
__________________
AKA xmm
First 1000 Order VIN # 000218 - Time Stamp 2:35:20 DEEP with Steel/Sand leather,
88,000+ miles on the odo and still goin' strong- Silver side stripes - My wife named my car "Nittany" after Penn State, my Alma Mater
Reborn at the factory at 57,100 miles Proud Member - ICoD EHDoR&M WPASC
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NASSOA
Founding Member #41
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Goin' on a Turkey Run !!!"
The lift pads are made by SPX Kent-Moore for GM.
I bought two from my dealer, but I am trying to get two direct from the SPX Kent-Moore.
These pads are steel with a rubber cushion that goes against the frame.
They also have a small chain and tag attached warning to remove the lift pads from the car before driving.
__________________ Envious Green, No XM/On-Star/Monsoon. With LSD, ABS, AC, Steel and Sand.
Picked up March 07, 2006....What A Ride!
Be very careful with the placement of the jack stands, I put one near the lifting point and when I released the jack to lower the car settled on the jack stand and kept going. I now have a nice indent, that metal is super thin! I wound up painting my calipers one at a time with 3 coats, but did not take that much time, each coat dries in about 15 minutes. I also ordered the special jack pad insert that has the same slot as in the underside of the car.
Your PURE FUN web site is great, a very classy way to show off your car. The mods that you did to your car are smooth and suttle, I was also thinking about removing the badges how hard was it, and if you're still serious about those rally stripes I've got a vendor in mind for mine. PM me if you would like the info. Again nice work!
Jacking
The C5 was the first car to use hydroformed frame rails. Hydroformed rails are quickly becoming a common platform for new cars, but not many shops are prepared to lift these vehicles. The C5 requires an adapter for regular jacks and lifts to fit the jacking points. Make your own adapters with a hockey puck (or two) with a 1 1/2" eye bolt screwed thru the center. Stick the eye bolt thru the slit in the jacking point, turn 90 degrees, place jack under adapter and jack away....if you can get the jack under the car. You may have to use ramps. The C5 is so low that most people make their own wooden ramps....rhino ramps are too steep.
Regarding the comment "rhino ramps are too steep" There is a current thread titled "ramps" which I read yesterday which makes a point of saying that rhino ramps have a 17 degree incline and work perfectly for the Solstice, who's got the right answer, I was just about to buy a set?
Jacking
The C5 was the first car to use hydroformed frame rails. Hydroformed rails are quickly becoming a common platform for new cars, but not many shops are prepared to lift these vehicles. The C5 requires an adapter for regular jacks and lifts to fit the jacking points. Make your own adapters with a hockey puck (or two) with a 1 1/2" eye bolt screwed thru the center. Stick the eye bolt thru the slit in the jacking point, turn 90 degrees, place jack under adapter and jack away....if you can get the jack under the car. You may have to use ramps. The C5 is so low that most people make their own wooden ramps....rhino ramps are too steep.
Regarding the comment "rhino ramps are too steep" There is a current thread titled "ramps" which I read yesterday which makes a point of saying that rhino ramps have a 17 degree incline and work perfectly for the Solstice, who's got the right answer, I was just about to buy a set?
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I now have a nice indent, that metal is super thin! I wound up painting my calipers one at a time with 3 coats, but did not take that much time, each coat dries in about 15 minutes. I also ordered the special jack pad insert that has the same slot as in the underside of the car.
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