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Pinched top due to lost or damaged plastic tab

42K views 131 replies 41 participants last post by  rob the elder 
#1 ·
So the wife's car has started experiencing the classic top pinching on the right side. I inspected it and found that the plastic tab was broken off leaving only a small part held by the screw.

I went looking for the part based on numbers posted online. I talked with Tom at CED and he did a search of the national database and found one right side clip left in GM inventory. He told me that these clips have been out of production for several years.

I talked with a friend in the club who has parts made. He is going to see if he can find a supplier who can make us a small run of the parts for not too much $$$

I have one spare set from my backup top to use as patterns.

I am aware that some are making their own tabs but if we can get some purpose built replacements that would be preferable.
 

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#2 ·
That's a great idea Rob. :thumbs:
 
#5 ·
Well, I "know a guy" who works in plastics. :)

And he has a kid that works at a tool and die shop that builds molds.

Maybe I can find, er I mean talk to him and see if he can find an old mold lying around and my bo,.. I mean his boss wouldn't mind him using it. Then the owner of the tool shop (who already told him he doesn't mind his employees doing guvment jobs off the clock) would allow this guys son to CNC a couple of cavities into the mold.

Seriously, if Rob can send me one (if they are truly symmetrical) or one of each, I can reverse engineer in CAD, my kid can machine cavities and I could run some of these off in a small machine. I would offer my employer a $200.00 set up fee which is a typical charge we would apply to any customer. (He will likely decline it, but I'll offer anyway.) I know we have nylon regrind lying around (been molded once and ground up) that would work fine. My math is coming with with $5 a set.

I mean, if this guy I know is good with doing that.
 
#6 ·
Interesting

They are left and right.

I just gave my set to my friend who thinks he can get his guy in Texas to laser cut some. When I get them back, hopefully in about a week, I will ship them to you so you can see about your friend making a mold

The issue is the plastic used for the factory part is not very robust and they break. My friend is looking at some better material.

Will keep you informed.

I want several sets and want to avoid having to cludge a replacement if I can. I an
M paranoid about the tops.
 
#7 ·
I can identify what they are made from either from a recycling code (which probably isn't on something that small) or by putting a flame to an edge and sniffing the fumes. (Yeah, that's what makes me as messed up as I am. lol)

My first bet would be nylon, but the problem with nylon is that it is hygroscopic enough that it can be brittle in very dry environments. Like say for somebody that lives in a desert? Polyester is not quite as "tough" but is less vulnerable to moisture changes.

Hell, if we make a mold I can shoot about damn near anything in it and we can test durability if anyone wants to be a guinea pig!
 
#11 ·
The guy who is researching it is a materials guy for Boeing and other aerospace companies. He is talking about some kind of laser cut material thet is fracture and wear resistant. He said the easiest way is to give the two parts I have to his guy who will scan them and then use that to laser cut from a sheet. We believe we can fit it with one screw and hold it in place with friction vice the raised lip. But he also talked about a couple of other ideas so we will see what he comes up with.

I would like to get a hundred made so we will have a source as they are needed
 
#12 ·
PTFE is slick as snot, but it's not that strong compared to some other materials. And your guy laser cutting won't want to do teflon. (Google "teflon fever" - serious sh!t!)

I'm also curious about the current design because mine was the steel tab with a rubber overmold. We could possibly design one that could be used on either side - I'd engrave an "L" one one side and "R" on the other so the installer could flip it over.

If we did get a mold made I would run a couple hundred on the first shot and put them on the shelf. The biggest expense is cleaning out the machine, hanging the mold and starting it up. Once it's running it's cheaper to keep banging them out.

Keep us posted on your source's ideas Rob (which I'm sure you will.) If I can help I gladly will!
 
#13 ·
All three of my tops have the plastic tab mounted OVER the metal tab that is molded into the rubber at the hinge. the plastic tab is a fix for the problem encountered when the metal tab wears through the rubber and then starts to grab the top and pull it into the hinge as the mechanism rotates to closed position.

It is possible that your plastic tab is missing. Do you see a screw hole in the rubber as in the pictures I posted above?
 
#18 ·
Neither side had a plastic tab. I'm thinking that may have been a "running change" to address the problem. The original design was a definite case of oversight. Overmolding the rubber onto the steel would normally be a typical situation for a weather seal. BUT introducing the friction of the top fabric against the rubber, which will grab it, was destined to fail because it would cause the metal to cut right through it - as many of us have seen.

Using a metal instead of the plastic would seem to be more robust, but you need to make sure the leading edge is highly polished, or it's going to wear the top fabric. That's the advantage the plastic would have in that it's inherently lubricious and can easily be molded with a very smooth surface.
 
#15 ·
I have seen that done

I will go that route if we are unable to reproduce the actual part.

I have some concern that with a home made part I may end up introducing new problems :thumbs:
 
#17 ·
Rob does the part have to be made out of plastic? What I'm getting at will billet aluminum or some type of similar metal work I sure we can find someone who could produce these parts and even if they cost more if it's a one time charge and they don't break it might be worth looking into.
 
#19 ·
CW when was your car built? Mine is June 07

The top I bought was I believe an 06 top off a late car and it had the tabs

Strange

We will know more when Dick gets to talk with his supplier.
 
#24 ·
#26 ·
Having a 1st 1000, I have a Plan A top, and have never had any top issues whatsoever.

Plan B also had other changes with respect to the header on the windshield, and maybe a few other things. It was a long time ago, and I never paid much attention to it back then, as I haven't really had anything wrong with the top.

.
 
#28 ·
I've had pinching of the top happen only a few times before on the passenger side, but I corrected it by lowering it again and lifting from the passenger side. I did check the tabs and they do seem to be intact. Why is it that sometimes when I lift the top it also doesn't align? I have to lower and raise it a few times before it 'lands' into the appropriate position..
 
#29 ·
I found a source for the TSB. My painter LOL
 

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#30 ·
NEW DESIGN CONVERTIBLE TOP WEATHERSTRIP
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 06-08-67-009A, Date of Issue: October 24, 2006
Affected
Model(s): 2006-2007 Pontiac Solstice; 2007 Saturn SKY
Supercedes:
This bulletin is being revised to update the information and add the 2007 model year
for the Solstice. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-67-009 (Section 08 -
Body and Accessories).
SERVICE INFORMATION
On late built 2006 Solstice and early built 2007 SKY models, the convertible top and all of the
convertible top weatherstrips, including the windshield weatherstrip and quarter panel muckets,
were redesigned. The easiest way to distinguish between Plan-A and Plan-B designed weatherstrip
is to open the top and from the front of the vehicle look at the number one weatherstrip on the
convertible top (refer to illustration).

Fig 2: Plan-A Or Plan-B Designed Convertible Top
Courtesy of

In the event that any of the convertible top or windshield weatherstrips needs to be replaced refer
to the illustration above to identify if the customer has a Plan-A or Plan-B designed convertible top,
since the weatherstrips are not interchangeable. All convertible tops built on or after VIN 6Y118652
(Pontiac) and 7Y103259 (Saturn), will require Plan-B designed weatherstrips
IMPORTANT: There are some vehicles built
Fig 2: Plan-A Or Plan-B Designed Convertible Top
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
prior to the above VIN breakpoints that were built
with a Plan-B top and weatherstrips. Always
check which weatherstrip the car is equipped with
before attempting any repairs.
 
#31 ·
After a lot of poking around it appears that the Plan A tops did not come with the plastic clip. And that they had issues with pinching the top when the metal tab wore through the rubber forward covering. As the hinge rotates to closed the exposed metal tab pulls the top into the hinge.

One reference from Small Dealer from GM stated that a "fix" for the Plan A tops is to grind off the leading edge of the metal tab so it does not protrude and grab the top. However they cautioned to NOT use a grindwheel because the metal used will burst into flame and probably burn a hole in the top if not burn the car to the ground. So cut it off and smooth it off without heating it up. Good luck.

The real fix is they changed the design as the Plan B top which has the plastic tab to prevent the metal tab from wearing through the rubber and pinching the top.

Unfortunately the plastic tab can end up getting grabbed by the rubber seal on the top and gets broken off. Like mine did.
Which is why for either top, applying a layer of dielectric grease to the inner surface of the seal and the bottom surface of the top where it comes into contact with the rubber seal is a good idea. It helps preserve the plastic tab so it does not grab and fracture for the Plan B tops and for the Plan A tops it provides a less friction prone mating surface that will wear through the rubber and expose the metal tab which will then pinch the top which will then . . . .

So, based on what I think I might know now, lube your top where it slides at the hinge point and if you have a Plan B top, verify that the plastic tab is tight and properly aligned. For the Plan A top, check to verify that the metal tab is not protruding through the rubber coating on the forward edge yet, and lube the crap out of the area. If it is protruding, CAREFULLY file the exposed metal tab away so it is not dragging on the top and consider adding your own plastic tab. Once we get some built. :thumbs:
 
#36 ·

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#40 ·
Because of the way they were issued and the mixed production, sol, sky, GT, and the Korean version and the staggered preproduction, and mulit year integration they did not come off the line sequentially, but major design changes were applied in an orderly manner so they could keep track.
 
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