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Old 06-14-2009, 05:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Radiator Fluid Mixing

Can you really mix the "Any brand, any color" such as Prestonce with the Dex-cool antifreeze? The bottle says you can, but the manual says no, as most manuals state lol. I was wondering is that jus "manufacture superstition" or will it really mess the engine up, which i doubt?
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Old 06-15-2009, 05:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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hooray - a myth buster thread !

Quote:
Originally Posted by goofyboy65 View Post
Can you really mix the "Any brand, any color" such as Prestonce with the Dex-cool antifreeze? The bottle says you can, but the manual says no, as most manuals state lol. I was wondering is that jus "manufacture superstition" or will it really mess the engine up, which i doubt?


the prestone does a chemical reaction and destroys some pieces parts .....over time.....pumps, pieces parts - something that involves outrageous labor and replacement costs ....... ok i heard this reason ( why not to mix )
but like alotta things in one ear and out the other
....


i can't remember everything so i try to follow directions.....( when i don't know or can't be bothered remembering)

i've also used syth oil and super unleaded gas for the last 20 years - ie sucker

i hope someone will explain this who actually knows or remembers !

in a pinch i've heard of people scooping ditch water for a radiator....

... can you do that...lol... i think so........ should you ?

well i guess you can use prestone too but WHY?........
prestone wants your money - its not to their benefit to discourage an inferior product......... would you feel better if the prestone jug said ditch water can be mixed with any color too

the manual is information recommended proper maintenance - not voodoo - don't mix - i'd take for a warning ....or peak performance guide....... not superstition......

compare the dexcool price to the prestone - do you think you're getting the same protection.......the same technology and composition ?

getting what you pay for is more often the rule than the exception .....pay now or pay later ....... if i think i can avoid issues..... ((hello ))



go by the manual ..... an optimum reason for using the recommended fluid....?

the same genius that figured plastic door handles were fine mighta chose dexcool ?

i assume yuh either need it or its insurance against failure prior to the warranty expiration...... then again - who knows -

if you've ever seen one of our oem radiators "out the car" - its a lil sliver !! or modern marvel??
OMG no clue how that dinky lil thing - is sufficient ........ i wouldn't risk less than optimum fluid replacement and mix % .

dexcool is not so expensive that you can't wait and buy the good stuff........
when i replaced my oem radiator with the "werks" radiator i used dexcool and distilled water.........did i have too ? nope ....

.. my malibu had 300K miles when i sold it........ my truck has 140k on it now
does obsessing over details matter ? only if you plan to keep it
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:05 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Why would you want to not use Dex-Cool?

Prestone makes a Dex-Cool version of straight up or 50/50 mix.
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sometimes you can get the same quality without getting name brand stuff, I was just curious and wanted some clarification on the subject.
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can NOT mix the two colors if it's red stay red if it's green stay green, they make Jello when mixed. You can however add plain water to either in a pinch, in fact in really hot climates you might get better cooling from a 60 water 40 antifreeze mix, water works very well it's what most race cars run, mostly in case of a spill, antifreeze just increases the boiling temp it doesn't really help it cool, it also reduces the freezing temp. Dex Cool costs no more than the green stuff, lots of companies make it with a different name, as long as it's red it is most likely dex-cool compatible
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Id just get the dex-cool. Its not worth having the dealer void warranty when you have brown antifreeze instead of pink.
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Gee, I dunno....

Enquiring minds want to know!

Why not try it and let us in on results.....

(I vote run with the manual and change as suggested.)
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've been doing some reading on this, and offer the following.

The major component of "classic" anti-freeze/coolant was ethylene glycol ( HOCH2CH2OH ). This remains the major component in "modern" coolants such as Dex-Cool. It has been joined with the dimer of this compound, diethylene glycol ( HOCH2HC2OCH2CH2OH ), and some sort of organic acid or acid salt. These latter components act as anti-corrosion agents, replacing the silicates present in "classic" coolant preparations.

I did a brief survey of the anti-freeze aisle the last time I was in AutoZone. With one exception, the list of major ingredients are the same. (The exception was the use of propylene glycol ( HOCH2CH(OH)CH3 ), which is only one carbon unit different from the ethylene glycol, funtionally equivalent, however.

I have a mixture of brands (all orange, all "extended life") in my car, as I popped an upper hose three times in an hour at the Texas Mod Meet. I drive without worries on this front.

My great guess on the "jello" issue is one of not enough water, low overall coolant levels and high heat causing crystallization of the glycols, but this is at this point SPECULATION on my part. It is my hope to get a set of my lab students to work on this "jello" issue and see if we can reproduce the effect in the lab. My internet research (yes, I _know_ you can believe everything you read on the internet ) leads me to believe that in most if not all of the "gel" cases, the coolant level was well below standards. This provides a larger surface area contact within the system between air and coolant, giving more opportunity for deposits to form.




The above is the thinking of a career chemistry educator, but a theoretician. Please do not act or fail to act solely on my thoughts andopinions as expressed above.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanx chem that the explanation i was lookin for lol
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Is A Funkateer....Ya Dig?!?!?!
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The thing that gives you real boil-over protection is the psi rating of the cooling system. The Sol GXP has a 15 psi system if I recall; that makes the boil-over temp 247* F, just like GM muscle cars 40 years ago. In my opinion, I wouldn't rely on the 'antifreeze' to raise the boiling point, even though the anti-corrosion and freezing-point-lowering agents have that side benefit- it's not the antifreeze that makes the boiling point 247 *F, it's the over-pressure in the system

Also, don't alter purge or overflow tanks. The coolant expands and contracts, taking up more, and less, volume in the rad, and 'pukes' into the overflow, then later, it draws from under the overflow tank's current level, so atmospheric pressure isn't pulled into the rad. I can't remember how many people I've talked to that had overheating issues, and then it turned out they removed or disconnected their overflow tank, but I digress
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:54 AM   #11 (permalink)
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My own experience tells me not to mix - period. My 96 Saturn came with the green old time antifreeze. After a couple of years took it to the dealer for service and they switched the car to Dexcool. A couple of years after that I started noticing pinkish hard waxy deposits in the overflow tank.

It took a lot of effort to clean that stuff out of there! I switched back to the green stuff (with distilled water) and never had another issue.

Don't know if the "problem" was an ineffective flushing by the dealer, or if it's a natural tendency of the Dexcool to get waxy deposits. Either way, I wasn't taking any chances.
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