When downshifting, I rev match. (I used to heel-toe, but I messed up my knee and ankle skiing.) Basically, when you down shift:
1. Press clutch
2. Blip the throttle - say about 1500 RPM increase, and let it go.
3. As the RPM falls to where it needs to be - approximately 1k RPM above where you started - release the clutch while getting back on the gas.
If done correctly, the car just snicks back into gear without any jolt or jostling. If you practice this a few times, it becomes second nature. Also, it really comes in handy on the track, where you want to eliminate that jolt that most people cause when shifting. That's bad on the drivetrain, upsets the balance of the car, wears out components, and is generally considered an amateur move.
I don't understand the point in shifting without using the clutch pedal. It introduces unnecessary wear on the transmission - which is much more expensive to replace than the big round brake pad we call a clutch disc - is slower, and generally only impressive if you're not grinding the gears in an F1 car 15 years ago. It's nice to know HOW to do that if you're far from home and blow the clutch, but, beyond that, unnecessary and, in my opinion, highly silly. If there is a good reason to do this, could someone please enlighten me?
For up-shifting, just put the clutch in, skip the throttle blip, and let it out about 1k RPM below where you started. (Installation is the reverse of removal...)
Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, GMPP cat-back, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted and drilled rotors, DDM braces, BR Racing coilovers, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, DDM oil catch can, Autometer boost, water and AFR gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-R HID headlights, GReddy Profec @ 13PSI, custom A-pillar gauge pod. Norm's 430 bumper, vented fenders
Currently on engine #4!
Last edited by raygun; 05-17-2017 at 04:11 PM.