rpm's between gears - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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rpm's between gears

New owner.
I have recently purchased a '06 Solstice after owning/driving a British roadster for many years.
My first impression while driving the Solstice was that the rpm's don't drop fast enuf between gears, when shifting.
I actually find myself waiting for them to drop before proceeding to the next gear. This "feature" greatly reduces the fun of my driving this fine car.
Has anyone been successful in in correcting this, or is there a shifting technique that helps? Thanks
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 04:38 AM
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Welcome to the forum
Tell us about your car. How many miles, overall mechanical condition
What you describe is not what most of us experience. Have you pulled any codes?

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 05:13 AM
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I think what you're describing is quite common with these cars. I have the 2.0L and when I don't use my clutch to shift I find myself waiting for up to second sometimes for the RPMs to drop enough to match RPMs for the next gear. Maybe that's not what you're describing...please elaborate a bit more.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 05:36 AM
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I have never had to wait for the RPMs to drop.

I suspect that there is a dirty throttle body or a tuning issue. A properly tuned car that is functioning properly should not exhibit hesitation in RPM drop when off throttle in my experience.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 06:47 AM
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This is normal operation for any drive by wire car. With a cable throttle when you let off the gas to shift the throttle slaps shut restricting air flow and fuel ends up going through the exhaust unburnt. With drive by wire the computer doesn't let the throttle close as fast ,which results in RPM hang, so their isn't as dramatic of a shift in air load on the engine. More of the fuel gets burned which results in a "cleaner" emissions. Just one of the many reasons why old cars are better than new ones.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 06:58 AM
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A video of your issue might be helpful so we can determine if this is normal operation or there is a problem. Personally, if I am using the clutch to shift, I don't match RPMs. I just let if out and get back on the gas, so I guess I don't notice it that often. Unless I'm trying to shift without my clutch....

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 07:14 AM
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What KappaTarbo describes is what is happening. It is one of those nannies that are built in to the ECM in order to better control emissions.

If you were to go back to some of the older threads in time 'til when these cars were just starting to appear on the market, you would find plenty of discussions on this subject. Over time you will get used to it, or just ignore it.

Welcome to the forum, and enjoy your new to you Solstice.



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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:20 AM
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Flywheel

It seems like the Solstice also has a heavy flywheel. It could be the ECM, but you do not get that nice blip when you tap the throttle that you got with old European sports cars.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swansong1 View Post
New owner.
I have recently purchased a '06 Solstice after owning/driving a British roadster for many years.
My first impression while driving the Solstice was that the rpm's don't drop fast enuf between gears, when shifting.
I actually find myself waiting for them to drop before proceeding to the next gear. This "feature" greatly reduces the fun of my driving this fine car.
Has anyone been successful in in correcting this, or is there a shifting technique that helps? Thanks
One counter-measure is installing a light-weight flywheel. I am running a SPEC aluminum, RPM matching is much quicker and more gentle.

317whp/329wtrq 2006 Solstice #1458 AR5 LE5 Werks Turbo Kit Meth 16.5 PSI, Kappadapt clutch hose, Kappadapt flywheel bolts, Kappadapt trans mount
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebot39 View Post
It seems like the Solstice also has a heavy flywheel. It could be the ECM, but you do not get that nice blip when you tap the throttle that you got with old European sports cars.
Installing a SPEC aluminum flywheel in my LE5 and driving it back-to-back, for sure the blip is waaay faster...crazy how fast you can go from idle to redline, got to be careful if you're use to waiting to get there neutral revving it.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 04:07 PM
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When downshifting, I rev match. (I used to heel-toe, but I messed up my knee and ankle skiing.) Basically, when you down shift:

1. Press clutch
2. Blip the throttle - say about 1500 RPM increase, and let it go.
3. As the RPM falls to where it needs to be - approximately 1k RPM above where you started - release the clutch while getting back on the gas.

If done correctly, the car just snicks back into gear without any jolt or jostling. If you practice this a few times, it becomes second nature. Also, it really comes in handy on the track, where you want to eliminate that jolt that most people cause when shifting. That's bad on the drivetrain, upsets the balance of the car, wears out components, and is generally considered an amateur move.

I don't understand the point in shifting without using the clutch pedal. It introduces unnecessary wear on the transmission - which is much more expensive to replace than the big round brake pad we call a clutch disc - is slower, and generally only impressive if you're not grinding the gears in an F1 car 15 years ago. It's nice to know HOW to do that if you're far from home and blow the clutch, but, beyond that, unnecessary and, in my opinion, highly silly. If there is a good reason to do this, could someone please enlighten me?

For up-shifting, just put the clutch in, skip the throttle blip, and let it out about 1k RPM below where you started. (Installation is the reverse of removal...)

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Last edited by raygun; 05-17-2017 at 04:11 PM.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelmesh View Post
Installing a SPEC aluminum flywheel in my LE5 and driving it back-to-back, for sure the blip is waaay faster...crazy how fast you can go from idle to redline, got to be careful if you're use to waiting to get there neutral revving it.
+1 for the AL flywheel.

I signed mine when I installed it.

Blue-ish 2006 2.4, Werks stage 1 turbo, GMPP cat-back, TCE Wilwood 6 piston front brakes, 4-piston rears , Stainless brake lines, slotted and drilled rotors, DDM braces, BR Racing coilovers, Spec aluminum flywheel, Spec stage 2 clutch, Werks aluminum radiator, DDM oil catch can, Autometer boost, water and AFR gauges, RKSport hood, Morimoto FX-R HID headlights, GReddy Profec @ 13PSI, custom A-pillar gauge pod. Norm's 430 bumper, vented fenders


Currently on engine #4!
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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More info on the "rpm's not dropping" situation.
Here is what happens when shifting up in gears.....say when going from 2nd. to 3rd.
The action of pushing in the clutch actually causes the rpm's to surge about 500 revs.
So I have to wait for the rpm's to drop back down before going to the next gear.
Is this normal, if not how to fix?
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebot39 View Post
It seems like the Solstice also has a heavy flywheel. It could be the ECM, but you do not get that nice blip when you tap the throttle that you got with old European sports cars.
OE flywheel: 48lbs. (might be 47, I can't remember)
Spec flywheel: 17lbs.

So it is quite a bit heavier.

____________________________________________

Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raygun View Post
+1 for the AL flywheel.

I signed mine when I installed it.
Signing car parts improves their performance I hear. I didn't sign mine, but paint marked part numbers and the install date.

317whp/329wtrq 2006 Solstice #1458 AR5 LE5 Werks Turbo Kit Meth 16.5 PSI, Kappadapt clutch hose, Kappadapt flywheel bolts, Kappadapt trans mount
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