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Solstice won't start ... engine lock out?

45K views 55 replies 29 participants last post by  DaveOC 
#1 ·
I'm hoping someone can help me here, this is really starting to drive me nuts, and i'm getting close to just selling this POS.

Here's some background:
First winter I had my solstice, I just put it in the garage, and didn't touch it for a couple months. In spring it started up fine.

Second year, same thing, but when I went to start it, battery was dead. Bummer. Ok, so i get it towed, and think, next year, I will make sure i start it more often in the winter, to keep the battery alive.

So third year comes around, and I try to start it after being in garage for a month. It's already dead. UGH. So I get it towed, new battery, and off I go.

In the fall, I get a Jeep, so I'm driving that more often... I let my solstice go a month without a start, and guess what, it's dead. So I have the techs at the pontiac shop try to figure out if there's a weird battery drain or something, and the best he could do was say "Cars are meant to be driven, you just have to drive it more often!"

Nice.

Anyway, on to today. My solstice is in the garage for the winter. I've been starting it every week and going for little drives to keep the battery going. Today is 9 days since I started it. And it won't start. NINE DAYS! Am I crazy, or should a car be able to sit longer than that without draining the battery?

It's odd, though, the lights and stereo come on, and the FOB works fine. When I put the key in the ignition, it doesn't even try to turn over. The little light on the dash that has a LOCK on it flashes, which I've read is a security lock out. Like somehow it unlearned my key or something? I don't know, this is so frustrating. The same thing happened last time (earlier this year) and trying to explain that to the technician was futile.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I can do? Do I really need to drive this car everyday for it to stay alive?
 
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#33 ·
All this talk of current drain and bad battery is hurting my ears! :yawn:

I have a 2008 GXP with 4,578 miles on it. The mileage alone should tell you it sits for weeks, if not a month or two without being started. I do not take the car out in the winter. Sitting for two weeks is a given. I haven't driven the car in at least 5 weeks and just went out and started it right up. No hesitation at all. I have a Dashawk that is always plugged in and the car has OnStar. The Dashawk screws up the Onstar Monthly automatic diagnostics. I have never had a problem starting this car. I think you have some bigger problem than a battery issue.
 
#35 ·
All this talk about people leaving their cars not running for weeks and months on end is hurting my ears. :devil:

If you let it sit for a long time, nobody is saying your car may not start.

What WILL happen is sulphation. Guaranteed. Simple, unavoidable, basic chemistry. And sulphation WILL shorten the overall life of your battery. As long as you realize that this IS happening, but don't care, that's fine. But for me, having a car where you have to remove the fender to change the battery, I like to prolong the battery life by using an intelligent trickle charger during long periods of inactivity (like winter storage). Your mileage may vary. ;)
 
#34 ·
Kind of lost track of this thread, but this may be of help:

Subject: Engine Will Not Crank After A Battery Disconnect, Dead Battery Condition Or After A Reprogramming Event, Theft Deterrent Light Illuminated, DTC B3060 Stored, One Key Starts Vehicle But Second One Does Not (Reprogram Keys into Theft Deterrent Module)


Models: 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR
2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only), Solstice
2007 Saturn SKY Built Prior to June 30, 2006


Condition
Some customers may comment on the following conditions after experiencing a loss of battery power in their vehicle. Technicians may encounter a vehicle with the following conditions after disconnecting a battery during a service procedure or after reprogramming any module on the vehicle.

• The engine will not crank using the key the customer currently has in their possession.

• If the customer has both keys, one key starts the vehicle but the vehicle will not crank using the second key.

• The Theft Deterrent Light may be illuminated during the no crank condition.

Technicians may find Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) B3060 (Unprogrammed Transponder Identification Code Received) stored as a current or a history code.

Cause
This condition may be caused by the failure of the key programming information for both keys to be permanently stored in the Theft Deterrent Module (TDM) during the vehicle assembly process. The information for one key is stored permanently while the information for the other key will be lost if the vehicle's battery voltage drops below 7.8 volts.

The failure condition will also occur when the key programming information for one of the vehicle's keys is lost after a battery disconnect during a service procedure, a dead battery condition or after a reprogramming event for any module and the key that has lost its programming is used to start the vehicle. The vehicle's other key programming information will not be lost due to the loss of battery voltage or a reprogramming event and that key will still start the vehicle. It may also be possible to unknowingly render the customer's second key inoperative after a battery disconnect or a reprogramming event performed during other service procedures on the vehicle.

It is recommended that the customer be asked for both keys to their vehicle when their vehicle is brought in for any service requests in which a battery disconnect or reprogramming event will occur. Technicians should verify that both keys work before returning the vehicle to the customer.



Correction
Important: In order to prevent the technician from possibly having to perform a very long diagnostic procedure, every effort should be made to obtain both keys to the vehicle before any repairs are attempted on the vehicle. If the customer only brings in one key, their second key will no longer start the vehicle after these repairs are completed unless the second key is programmed into the TDM at a later date using the Adding Keys procedure. Having both keys available will also prevent the possible situation where the second key cannot be programmed into the TDM and the vehicle would have to be returned to the dealership again.

Technicians should use one of the following procedures to repair this condition depending on the number of keys available:

Procedure #1. Both keys available at dealership. One key starts the vehicle but the second key does not.
1) Make sure that the vehicle's battery is fully charged before attempting this procedure.

2) If you have one key that starts the vehicle, use the Adding Keys procedure in SI (Document ID# 1686394) to program the second non-working key into the TDM.

3) If the second key cannot be programmed, then replace the non-working key and program the new key into the TDM using the Adding Keys procedure in SI. The new key must be the correct part number with a circle plus mark on the key shank.

4) If both keys now start the vehicle, clear all DTCs and return the vehicle to the customer.

5) If one key still does not start the vehicle, refer to the Diagnostic System Check-Vehicle procedure in SI to begin your diagnosis.

Procedure #2. One key available at the dealership that will not start the vehicle. Second key not available.

1) Make sure that the vehicle's battery is fully charged before attempting this procedure.

2) Program the available key into the TDM using one of the following programming methods:
• For Domestic vehicles, technicians may use the either the 10-Minute or the 30-Minute Relearn Procedure using a single key. If the 10-Minute Relearn procedure is used, select the "Vehicle Theft Deterrent Learn For Learning Replacement Keys" calibration in the service programming system. Refer to the Set Up a Theft Deterrent Module (TDM) Using New Keys section of the Programming Theft Deterrent System Components (Domestic) procedure in SI (Document ID# 1686399).

• For Canadian vehicles, technicians must use the 10-Minute Relearn Procedure to learn the first key. The calibration "Vehicle Theft Deterrent Learn For Learning Replacement Keys" must be selected in the service programming system. Refer to the Set Up a Theft Deterrent Module (TDM) Using New Keys section of the Programming Theft Deterrent System Components (Canada) procedure in SI (Document ID# 1686437).

• For Saturn vehicles, technicians must refer to the Theft Deterrent Control Module Programming and Setup procedure in SI (Document ID# 1864651). Use the Set Up a Theft Deterrent Module (TDM) Using New Keys procedure contained in this document.

3) If the first key cannot be programmed using either the 10-Minute or 30-Minute Relearn Procedure, then replace the first key with a new key. Use the appropriate procedure above to program the new key into the TDM. The new key must be the correct part number with a circle plus mark on the key shank.

4) After the first key or the new replacement key is successfully programmed into the TDM, instruct the customer to bring their second key to the dealership. Program the second key into the TDM using the Adding Keys procedure in SI.

5) If both keys now start the vehicle, clear all DTCs and return the vehicle to the customer.

6) If one or both of the keys you now have cannot be programmed into the TDM, refer to the Diagnostic System Check-Vehicle to begin your diagnosis.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
 
#36 ·
We have two Sky Redlines. Mine runs year around and my wife's runs only when there is no snow on the roads. But she still manages to get it out most of the winter, because typically snow melts off pretty fast here. Her's also tends to be much shorter drives, where mine gets driven for longer periods. Both are 08s and this will be the second winter for both cars.

That being said: I just did a little battery test on both for comparison. Garage is unheated, temperatures have been cold and my wife's car has been sitting for over three weeks. Mine was driven today on a long drive, and has been out every day in the last month. I tested voltage with both cars off. Mine tested at 12.65 volts. My wife's car tested at 12.25 volts. So not a lot of difference, but it is there.

I bet you that Small Dealers post is part of what you have going on, since you have been experiencing the security lock out. But I also agree with others that there has got to be something draining your battery quicker than normal. :(
 
#38 · (Edited)
I have found that the battery tends to discharge much faster if you lock the car (activating the security system) in cold weather. I leave my car unlocked and in neutral for the whole winter. Its an 06 and I still have the original battery in the car and have had none of the above problems. Is it a joke? Or did they do it to him on purpose? Just lucky I guess. Personally, I think there is something wrong with your car. Small Dealers post seems to address alot of your symptoms. Good luck getting it sorted out. It pains me to hear a fellow owner call a Sol a POS.
 
#40 ·
Or maybe a delirious effect on the batteries owner... :glol:
 
#42 ·
the post made by smalldealer makes sense, my dodge will do that same thing. the car thinks it is being stolen and refuses to turn-over.
 
#44 ·
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#45 ·
Well, I finally brought the solstice in to get looked at (it took awhile, I know!). They found the problem, the aftermarket stereo was draining too much battery power. I'm not sure why the previous pontiac dealership couldn't figure that out, but, whatever.

Now I just have to figure out what to do. The dealership won't touch the stereo, though they did take the fuse out for me. The company that installed it has since gone out of business. So I wonder if it's worth trying to figure out HOW the thing is hooked up wrong (or if the stereo is just defective) or if I should just say screw it, and gut out the whole stereo, and put in something new and cooler.
 
#46 ·
Well, I finally brought the solstice in to get looked at (it took awhile, I know!). They found the problem, the aftermarket stereo was draining too much battery power.
What unit is in it know and is there an aftermarket AMP also?
 
#47 ·
Does the AMP stay warm all the time even when the car is off? If so most likely it's wired up wrong, has a constant 12v going to the turn on source input wire/lug. The head unit should have a power on wire going to the AMP to tell it to turn on after the head unit turns on.

Most likely you'll have to pull out both owner's manuals and the units to make sure both are wired up correctly or take everything to another stereo shop.
 
#49 ·
I had an occasional issue with my Pioneer F700BT not shutting of off the AMP to the sub at shut down like there was something the radio didn't feel was completed yet but the radio looked to be completely off. The LED's on the AMP were still on. At first I was thinking that maybe the AMP was too hot and was trying to cool itself down so it was still drawing current because it seemed to happen after longer use but not the case. I've tried switching the remote line between two leads off the radio harness (Remote and power ant) and get the same reaction on either line. Also not the AMP because I replaced that with an entirely different brand and model. I then placed an illuminating toggle switch into the remote line so when I shut down and the switch light stays on I know the AMP is still getting power but flipping the switch off still does not kill the power to the light or the AMP.

I noticed if I pull the fuse from the hot AMP feed from the battery and then put it back in, the AMP and illuminated switch go off and stay off until I restart the system. Plus, if I leave the switch in the remote line off the AMP does not activate. It's simply like once its' on it gets fed from something else. Grounds and all other connections are solid and the only other wires are speaker.

The problem is not exactly fixed. I still get this occasional current after shut down but I've now added a 60amp toggle switch into the amps possitive line in the panel by the drivers seat. If I see the remote switch light not go out, I swith the kill off and then back on and the amp then stays off and I don't have to open the hood to pull the fuse. Seems to be working for me so far and now not a hasstle but doesn't answer the mystery. Pioneer has no ideas for me either but I'm wondering if the patch to the Onstar module system or the Satelite is still feeding power through the unit until it finishes its attempting tasks.
 
#50 ·
It's good to know you finally found out what happening. I think I'd email Pioneer Pioneer USA - Home, and tell them about the issue and ask if they can recommend an authorized installer in your area. If they do, contact them and tell them about the issue and ask if they can help. I'd also want their most experienced installer. A lot of folks say they know how to install aftermarket stereos, but finding someone who backs it up with a warranty because they know what they're doing might be worth their weight in gold.
 
#52 ·
i have had several Pontiac's that flashing of the lock means the car needs a new computer. if you let it sit and stop blinking as soon as the light stops blinking you should be able to start the car. i went through 4 computers on a grandam and every time the computer went i had that exact issue. everything would come on lights camera no action under the hood for over an hour. once the security light stops blinking it will allow you to start it i also suggest not locking the car that helps. its a security issue with a failing computer.
 
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