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Old 02-18-2006, 02:02 PM
   Spiderlites Installed but....
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I installed the Spiderlites today (LED bulbs for the rear stop and turn signals). They look AWESOME! However, the bulb out indicator kicks in and the turn signals are flashing way too fast.

Anyone has a solution to this problem?

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Old 02-18-2006, 02:51 PM
  
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Many of the LED lamp makers also offer load resistors, which are the kind that come with finned heatsink cases. Google is your friend for this.
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Old 02-19-2006, 02:24 AM
  
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Spiderlite sells the part you need.
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Old 02-19-2006, 08:22 AM
  
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I found another source. It seems that the part is a 6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistor. I have ordered a pair but I wonder if Radio Shack wouldn't carry something like that for a lot cheaper....
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Originally Posted by brentil
Spiderlite sells the part you need.
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Old 02-19-2006, 08:00 PM
  
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p.s., we have a bulb out indicator?
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Old 02-20-2006, 11:17 PM
  
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Yep - that's exactly what is going on (az'). Your turn signal timer, lagonia, is electronic. It senses the electrical load, and if the load in any of the circuits is outside a pre-set range, it senses the bulb is out, and blinks your signal at two or three times normal rate to let you know a bulb is out.

You need to install the proper resistor (if you know what is needed, then great) and it SHOULD work properly, but obviously, it may be difficult to know exactly what the current/resistance is supposed to be for the bulb to make sure the spiderlites replicate it properly.

Good luck.
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:52 AM
  
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Here is what the web site from spiderlights tells you to do:
http://www.spiderlite.com/faq.html#Q11
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:54 AM
  
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Yep. I have a pair of 6ohm, 50W load resistors on order. Hopefully will get here before the weekend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LatinVenom
Here is what the web site from spiderlights tells you to do:
http://www.spiderlite.com/faq.html#Q11
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:57 AM
  
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If all you need is the 60 ohm 50W resistors, you probably could get them at radio shack for cheaper. Can't tell you how likely you are to find 50W because when I go in there I'm looking for resistance and amps. Problem is the ones you order online probably come in a plug-in form whereas with a radio shack resistor you are going to have to rig up the connection.
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Old 02-21-2006, 10:01 AM
  
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Already tried that. The fattest resistor Radio Shack could sell me was 8 Ohms, 20W, nothing that could handle more power. I could rig them to get more wattage but then it becomes bulky and there is no good way, without more rigging, to dissipate the heat. 50W generates some heat. So, the ones that I have ordered have heat sinks built in to them... which means I have to mount them on the body under the tail light assembly somewhere. Not really looking forward to that because I suspect I will have to drill holes to mount them... we'll see...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stolz25
If all you need is the 60 ohm 50W resistors, you probably could get them at radio shack for cheaper. Can't tell you how likely you are to find 50W because when I go in there I'm looking for resistance and amps. Problem is the ones you order online probably come in a plug-in form whereas with a radio shack resistor you are going to have to rig up the connection.
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Old 02-21-2006, 10:21 AM
  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolsticeMan
Yep - that's exactly what is going on (az'). Your turn signal timer, lagonia, is electronic. It senses the electrical load, and if the load in any of the circuits is outside a pre-set range, it senses the bulb is out, and blinks your signal at two or three times normal rate to let you know a bulb is out.

You need to install the proper resistor (if you know what is needed, then great) and it SHOULD work properly, but obviously, it may be difficult to know exactly what the current/resistance is supposed to be for the bulb to make sure the spiderlites replicate it properly.

Good luck.

Hey, could you not check OEM bulb with a meter to measure resistance? Should indicate appropriate bulb to measure correct resistance.
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Old 02-21-2006, 10:34 AM
  
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You could but that would not be sufficient. That would give you the effective resistance needed (Re). If you know the resistance of the LED bulb (you could measure it too - Rled) in order to find the load resistance (Rl) then you would use this formula (have to connect load resistance in parallel to the LED bulb):

Rl = (Re.Rled) / (Rled - Re)

The above is basic Ohm's law. Correct me if I screwed it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by otalldon
Hey, could you not check OEM bulb with a meter to measure resistance? Should indicate appropriate bulb to measure correct resistance.
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Old 02-21-2006, 08:39 PM
  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otalldon
Hey, could you not check OEM bulb with a meter to measure resistance? Should indicate appropriate bulb to measure correct resistance.

Sorry, no. Incandescant bulbs will read near zero ohms when cold; when they heat up during operation, the actual resistance is reached. Best is to know the wattage of the lamp and estimate the current, or find the rated current (Google is your friend here). Some makers list wattage, some current, some (like Sylvania) both. The turn signal lamps in the Sol are rated at ~27W, or ~2.2A. That's why a 6ohm resistor is recommended (13.8V / 6ohms = 2.3A).
For power rating, usually 2X nominal power used is recommended for reliability, hence the 50W recommendation, which is the nearest standard size to 54W. BTW, that's one resistor per substitute lamp; if you replace all four, you need four resistors.

For mounting, you could look for a high-temp silicone sealant, like that used instead of gaskets. No holes, and you can remove it with little difficulty.
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Old 02-21-2006, 11:39 PM
  
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Just realized that the module is looking for current, not resistance. I assume the way the resistor is installed just increases the current draw for the spiderlites when on to make the module detect a normal bulb current.

Once you figure out what it takes to get the right current draw, then you should be good to go.
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:17 PM