Jack B:
I find that the Dejon spring replacement is a much better mod than the wastegate Rod adjustment. IMHO

__________________
Aggressive GXP at $25,995.00 shipping of $600, Manual Transmission.
Options:
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It has been stated many times that the AFR needs to be adjusted for the wastegate mod, Dave from Dejon even posted the tables. The Dejon spring and the wastegate mod are not even in the same league. I have both. The right tune is the best solution without a doubt, if you combine all of them they work very well together.

__________________
Red Bull Drift Team 2008
Solo Mach and High Flow Cat
Dejon Intercooler, Intake Elbow, BOV spring
Wester's Garage RACE tune II
JPM custom shifter.
Barney Juice with Militec-1
GM Auto-dimming mirror with OnStar and maplights
Rhys Millen Racing, RMR Style Bar.
Peak RWHP 286.3, Peak Torque 313 ft/lbs.
SSR Type C wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's
DDM Works PINK Breastplate

NASSOA In Great Company! Founding Member

To me the Dejon spring and our ECM is a better marriage.
While the wastegate rod mod and our ECM is like a failing marriage.
I get boost much faster and there is no adjustments or complaints from the ECM.
Also the ECM does not reject or adjust backwards to the Dejon spring as it does with the wastegate rod mod.
Also the calibration from BW is kept in reference to the turbo parameters.

__________________
Aggressive GXP at $25,995.00 shipping of $600, Manual Transmission.
Options:
Air, $960; Chrome Wheels, $545; PCQ, Premium Package (Leather), $525; Radio, 6-Disc with MP3, $495; Monsoon, $395; Premium Acoustic Headliner, $150; and Sport Metallic Pedals, $115; all totals $29,180.00.
No XM/OnStar and NO Spoiler.

MODS (RKSport/Magnaflow dual exit exhaust system, K&N filter, Ventureshield.
First 1000. Aggressive with everything, NO XM/OnStar. SOLD
~~~~~~~
NASSOA
Founding member
~~~~~~~

I think you are imagining things the spring has a very small effect, unless you had a bad spring. It was barely noticeable to me and that was long before I did the watsegate mod. You have not modified your AFR in the tune as is recommended so you can not truely judge the wastegate mod. Don't like the wastegate mod here's and idea don't use it. There has been a lot of data gathered to show it works and why if it is used with the corrected AFR. It works very well with my tune as can been seen by my posted dyno results 300 ft/lbs of torque flat from 3200 to 5200 rpm says a lot.

__________________
Red Bull Drift Team 2008
Solo Mach and High Flow Cat
Dejon Intercooler, Intake Elbow, BOV spring
Wester's Garage RACE tune II
JPM custom shifter.
Barney Juice with Militec-1
GM Auto-dimming mirror with OnStar and maplights
Rhys Millen Racing, RMR Style Bar.
Peak RWHP 286.3, Peak Torque 313 ft/lbs.
SSR Type C wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's
DDM Works PINK Breastplate

NASSOA In Great Company! Founding Member

lil goat come on your torque numbers and HP is because of the tune, the wastegate mod is not really adding that much.
I would almost guarantee you, if you put it back to the OEM placement of the rod, then did a Dyno your numbers would not be that much different from what you are showing right now.
I do not think the OEM spring was bad since with it the car would go to 18 - 20 psi, but not as quick and the pedal travel had to be a little further in.
The Dejon spring compression ratio vs the old spring is what contributes to the faster boots with less pedal effort as before.

__________________
Aggressive GXP at $25,995.00 shipping of $600, Manual Transmission.
Options:
Air, $960; Chrome Wheels, $545; PCQ, Premium Package (Leather), $525; Radio, 6-Disc with MP3, $495; Monsoon, $395; Premium Acoustic Headliner, $150; and Sport Metallic Pedals, $115; all totals $29,180.00.
No XM/OnStar and NO Spoiler.

MODS (RKSport/Magnaflow dual exit exhaust system, K&N filter, Ventureshield.
First 1000. Aggressive with everything, NO XM/OnStar. SOLD
~~~~~~~
NASSOA
Founding member
~~~~~~~

I haven't installed the spring, but, I feel the rod adjustment is dangerous. For whatever reason it drastically increases the frequency of the knock. In comparison, I have the MBC set at 23 psi without any KR. I am pretty sure that the ECU doesn't pull advance quick enough because the boost rises so quickly with the rod adjusted. It is true detonation and is only going to get worse in summer time.

Increase Burst/tip in KR a degree or so. It helps alot.

BTF:

Good find, some how I overlooked that table. What is interesting is that the oem tip-in retard is zero above 3200 rpm, just where the boost is reaching max and where the KR lives.

What is interesting, the KR is in the 3000-4000 rpm range and it is always between 1 and 3 degrees. It has never exceeded 3 degrees. It is totally gone with the rod back at the oem position. It is actually better then it was when the engine was stock, I believe because I added fuel in the KR range, but, the tip-in retard may be a better approach.

I did not like what the rod adjustment did to the driveability. With the MBC and wot kit it seems like the best of both worlds. You have the oem driveability and when you go wot, you hit your set point on the MBC.

thanks again