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BIX A BEL Cool, Ebony leather, Chrome, loaded, no XM/onstar Founding member of the "Lost Sols Club"
Deposit (1100) - 9/29/05, 1101/1102 - 2 Feb 06, 2500 - 7 Feb 06, 3000 - 8 Feb 06, 3100 - 13 Feb 06, 3300 - 13 Feb 06, 3400 - 14 Feb 06, 3800 - 24 Feb 06 (112544), 4000 - 24 Feb 06, 4150 - 24 Feb 06
dealer expected deliver 6 March, arrived 28 Feb, picked up that night w 3.2 miles on the clock :)
NOT WAITING ANY MORE!
Those look like some pretty cool rotors. I am sure they can make the rotor say anything you want if you wanted to write something in the rotor for show.
I saw them....didn't recognize the brand though. I've seen drilled and I've seen slotted, but why the need for drilled & slotted? I wonder what the specifications are for heat, stopping, noise and failure.....
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Ohio Plate (rear only): BOBS SLY
Sly/Ebony -- 107796
- Everything except OnStar Purchase date: 28 Jan 06
- Currently 10906 Miles - 08 Apr 07
Mods - Painted rotors & calipers, whip antenna, Custom Windrestrictor w/switch, GM CAI, floormats, door lock/unlock buttons, mud flaps, GXP door sills. New differential at 10882 miles.
Unless you enjoy wasting money and replacing rotors stay away from drilled rotors, slotted are fine. I would go with a major brand or get a really LOUD HORN!
__________________ Red Bull Drift Team 2008
Solo Mach and High Flow Cat
Dejon Intercooler, Intake Elbow, BOV spring
Wester's Garage RACE tune II
JPM custom shifter.
Militec-1
GM Auto-dimming mirror with OnStar and maplights
Rhys Millen Racing, RMR Style Bar. Peak RWHP 286.3, Peak Torque 313 ft/lbs.
SSR Type C wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's
Car is named Thunderstruck!
How come all motor cycles have drilled rotors if they suck for heat?
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Aggressive body, Black top, Black and red seats, Chrome Rims, Metal Petals, A/C, 6-Disk, XM, rubber floor mats, kappasheild, and no antenna. What more do I need?
2008 show sponsors: Team Solstice 2008, JPM, Wind Restrictor, Werks, Norm's Fiberglass, Easystreet AirLift, Parkerracing, Scap. To be a sponsor, just pm me.
See madmods in the upcoming Fast & Furious 4.
2009 Colorado Nationals attendee! I will be there and want to
party with everyone. Some of you owe me a beer.
How come all motor cycles have drilled rotors if they suck for heat?
They don't suck for heat, they disapate heat that's the point. I have drilled rotors on my Harley, if they are made correctly they are fine. The issue is you can't just take a rotor drill holes in it and sell it on ebay. The heat isn't the issue the holes are. If the holes arn't done correctly or cheap metal is used for the rotors they crack at the holes. They also remove some of the rigidity from the rotor and they warp more easily from repeated application of the brakes. (by the way motorcycle brakes have a lot more air flowing across them to cool them)
__________________ Red Bull Drift Team 2008
Solo Mach and High Flow Cat
Dejon Intercooler, Intake Elbow, BOV spring
Wester's Garage RACE tune II
JPM custom shifter.
Militec-1
GM Auto-dimming mirror with OnStar and maplights
Rhys Millen Racing, RMR Style Bar. Peak RWHP 286.3, Peak Torque 313 ft/lbs.
SSR Type C wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's
Car is named Thunderstruck!
I've been told that any opening on a rotor "Eats" the pads big time. The guys who have the repair shop next to my office both race cars. They suggested I look into a more aggressive pad for my car but keep the same type of rotors. Their though is that the more aggressive pad will stop me better but it will eventually eat up the rotor. By keeping a "stock" type rotor, the replacement cost is really low, in the $30 range. They feel you get the benefit of great stopping power but without the big cost of replacement. I ruled out larger rotors and pads from the beginning so I'm only working with the size that's there now. What do you guys think? I've never used different pads or rotors before. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
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AKA xmm
First 1000 Order VIN # 000218 - Time Stamp 2:35:20 DEEP with Steel/Sand leather,
67,600+ miles on the odo - Silver side stripes - My wife named my car "Nittany" after Penn State, my Alma Mater
Reborn at the factory at 57,100 miles Proud Member - ICoD EHDoR&M WPASC
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NASSOA
Founding Member #41
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Planning a daughter's wedding!!!"
I've been told that any opening on a rotor "Eats" the pads big time. The guys who have the repair shop next to my office both race cars. They suggested I look into a more aggressive pad for my car but keep the same type of rotors. Their though is that the more aggressive pad will stop me better but it will eventually eat up the rotor. By keeping a "stock" type rotor, the replacement cost is really low, in the $30 range. They feel you get the benefit of great stopping power but without the big cost of replacement. I ruled out larger rotors and pads from the beginning so I'm only working with the size that's there now. What do you guys think? I've never used different pads or rotors before. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
I went through 3 different brands of pads on my bike before I found a brand that I like told my friends and they all use the same brand now and love them. The pads make all the difference in the world! I just spent a fortune upgrading the pads on my truck, I have four whell discs on it. It is much much better that the factory pads. As far as pads tearing up rotors, some do. Pad technology has come a long way, ther are lots of pads out there that will improve performance and still not tear up the rotors or even make a ton of dust. The ones to use on the Solstice seem to be the one's brentil mentions in another thread, Cobalt SS up front and Saab in the rear. They are factory pads I am sure they won't tear up the rotors to bad.
__________________ Red Bull Drift Team 2008
Solo Mach and High Flow Cat
Dejon Intercooler, Intake Elbow, BOV spring
Wester's Garage RACE tune II
JPM custom shifter.
Militec-1
GM Auto-dimming mirror with OnStar and maplights
Rhys Millen Racing, RMR Style Bar. Peak RWHP 286.3, Peak Torque 313 ft/lbs.
SSR Type C wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's
Car is named Thunderstruck!
I wonder what the specifications are for heat, stopping, noise and failure.....
brakes are a ways away on my upgrade list.
