Here are some shots taken during the installation of the Kappasphere ReBAR.
The job only took about 15 minutes and the vehicle does not need to be raised off of the ground to complete it. Actually, I would recommend not jacking it up, so the suspension is left in it's normal, unstressed position.
Here is a shot that shows the right hand side factory chassis reinforcement bracket (in black) that will be removed. Both sides will be removed.
This next shot is with the factory bracket removed. It comes off with easily with four 13mm bolts. Notice how the lower A-Arm support hangs down below the black crossmember. This un-braced lever arm length is the whole reason that the reBAR product will provide rigidity beyond stock.
The reBAR is then positioned at the same position as the OEM brackets and is mounted up using the factory bolts. The ReBAR flanges have oversized holes, so it will be easy to position the bar where you want it.
Clearance to the stock GXP exhaust pipe is about 1/2 inch at the closest point. This next shot attempts to show this. It looks closer than it really is.
The bar does not descend any lower than any other part of the chassis, so there is no reason to think you will drag it before anything else important. Here are a few views from directly behind to show this.
Now for a road test.
Last edited by kd4z : 03-02-2008 at 07:53 AM.
Reason: Fixed typo
That I couldn't say as I only have the stock system. However, if you can take some exact measurements we might be able to tell. I am guessing I could try to locate the exact position of the crossbar in the ReBar product in relation to the black crossmember and you could use that to make a template that would represent it on your car? I'll be going on a cruise into Tennessee on the 22nd this month with a local club, we are meeting for lunch in Athens TN after driving some of the curvy roads, so if you are in the eastern end of the state, you could come and look for yourself!
What exaclty does this do? Better handling? Stiffer?
Exactly. It is subjective though as many people might not push the car to the point that the difference could be noticed. But for that small percentage, yes it is better.
How you ask? The purpose of this product is to make sure the rear suspension geometry is as static (in the places it is supposed to be) as possible. Most owners would say our cars are pretty stiff in stock config, but under higher loading, just about everything will move -- if only slightly. Being a convertable, even more so.
I haven't had but about an hour of play since I have had it installed but it is pretty noticable for me as I already had a good idea what the difference would be like. I added sub-link connectors in an autoX prepared F Body Mustang and in that case, it was night and day. Even a novice would notice it made the body stop twisting on RR tracks.
In our case, the bar doesn't help any at all on RR tracks. It comes in to play when the car is under high cornering loads like fast sweeping turns (at speed) or in fast transitional manuvers like slaloms.
For me, it has made the "handling" more steady or predictable. The first thing I noticed on the day I drove mine off of the dealer's lot was the back end wasn't able to settle down in fast, constant radius turns. The rear seemed to "squat" and "jounce" (if those mean something) as it tried to take a set through the middle of the turn.
That is the first thing I think has been improved by adding this bar. It makes sure the rear camber doesn't change under loading by trussing up the lower mount points of the rear A-arms. The rear now seems to take a set quickly, and you get more confidence to hang it out to the edge, knowing it isn't going to do something you didn't ask the suspension to do.
I only had some isolated back country roads to play so far, so I can't comment on how much understeer has been reduced, but I did trip the stability control playing with it this afternoon, in places I hadn't before. Now, I'm sure I was pushing harder today to get there..it only reminds me of that I really need to press the button a couple of times before playing hard...the ESC seems to be programmed for a very low trip point. (I wish it remembered the mode between restarts)
Mine you that you really have to toss the car to feel this so I wouldn't just go out and blaze out on the open road after installing this product. You should take it to an Autocross or a controlled track and play where it is safe to do so.
, Now let us know about the road test, because I am ready to order one....
