So will I ever get close to the " feeling" preformance I had in my 2002 MX-5 six speed?
The biggest part of achieving a "feeling" of performance is to define in words what that feeling is.
Now, others have brought up an excellent point. If you're after really high lateral G forces, you can easily switch the tires for some high grip tires like the Michelin PS2's, the Goodyear F1 GS-D3's, or even go all the way to DOT legal race tires like the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup. (I don't really recommend going all the way to race tires, but the other two are good choices.)
You'll also feel a bit faster turn-in with a stiffer tire, like an XL (extended Load) or also with run-flat tires. The sidewalls tend to be stiffer, and flex less when you transition from straight line to turns, making their transition to lateral force more immediately felt. So perhaps, a new set of rubber is in order. It's actually the largest improvement you can make, and it doesn't require tearing the suspension apart. You'll notice much higher upper cornering limits, and you'll start to think that the sway bars, stiff springs, and stiffer dampers from the ZOK package might be a good investment.
However, if you stay with the stock tires, the suspension changes you make will be far less noticeable.
Again, the danger is that with a higher grip tire, you might wind up developing some very bad habits of using sharp or abrupt inputs on the gas, steering, or brakes. You'll do this because at 80% of the tires grip, the tires have ample capacity to give you all that cornering, braking, and accelerating. However, when you're out closer to the limits, such radical moves will put you in the guard rail. Also, the PS2's will not make very much noise at all when you lock them up, and stabbing the brakes will lock them up. When locked up, PS2's will slide and make only as much noise as a deck of playing cards dragging over a table. Smoke will be pouring out, but you won't hear much. Thus, they are VERY easy to flat-spot if you stab the brakes, and that's an expensive mistake to make, especially at $300 per tire.
If it's a stiff, taught suspension you want, the ZOK package may be just the thing to feed your kids!
The truth is that the Solstice in Showroom Stock B is handing the Miatas of your vintage their hats. So much so that the SCCA had a petition this year to help out the Miata. (The petition was denied. I would speculate in part because the Miata had dominated the SSB class for more than a decade, and the amount that the Solstices were beating the Miatas by was not "running away with the race", but some good old fashioned competitive racing.)
By the way, I use the SSB class specifically because it requires stock suspension.
If you're after the "twitchy like a bumble bee with a saddle" ride, you might not get it. Part of the reason why is that with the high belt line (tall doors--they come up to pretty much shoulder height) you will feel planted in the seat even at 0.85 Gs, where in the low door Miata, where the door's closer to your elbow, you might feel like you were more likely to fall out due to the cornering force.
Another part of the reason that the Solstice seems much more planted than the Miata is that it is very close to critically damped.... What's that? It means that it almost doesn't bounce up at all when you go over a bump. What it really means is that the damping allows a rapid return to neutral with just enough damping so that there is only the return stroke, and not any oscillating around the neutral point, but also that the return to neutral is as rapid as possible without any movement past neutral.
The Solstice is also not over damped, which would make it jitter across the road with small imperfections, because the rate of return to neutral (and the ability to keep the wheel on the ground as it rises and falls relative to the body) is too slow, so the tires actually leave the ground while the shocks keep the springs from pushing them back down (in the case of rebound), or that the shocks act like steel bars and resist the upward movement of the suspension so much that the motion is translated to excessive upward motion of the body (in the case of compression). Thus, when the body is launched upward by the small bump, and the tire doesn't come back to the pavement quickly, there's a period of time where there's no traction (or reduced traction) The result is that the car will literally step abruptly sideways during a turn when you go over a bump. If the bump is severe enough, you'll wind up off the paved surface.
The critical damping takes each jolt, complies with it (the suspension soaks up a lot of it) and the wheel / tires keep in contact with the ground far better than either an over damped or under damped car. The net result is a VERY planted feel. Bumps are bumps, and you don't bounce all over the place, nor do you skitter off to the side.
Because there's a fair amount of roll stiffness as well, the car is VERY quick to "take a set" when you make a steering input--you turn the wheel, the car squats just a little, rolling slightly to one side, settles immediately, then turns in the direction you pointed it. There's really not much drama.
A lot of folks associate the drama of an under damped car with "it must be going fast!! IT'S ALL OVER THE PLACE!!" Others associate an over damped car with high performance--it's rock solid, and when it goes over a bump, it just jumps sideways, but never bounces.
In the first case, the under damped car can be made to oscillate and bounce all around with radical inputs and surface imperfections. In the case of the over damped car, it just skitters off the road due to imperfections in the road surface--not bouncing a bit as it winds up in the ditch. Needless to say, both of these are not the fastest way around the track. The car with critical damping will always triumph.
So, now that I've waxed lyrical about this for way more than long enough....
What exactly are you looking for in the handling?