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Old 02-18-2006, 12:27 AM
   Need some help installing rear Eibachs
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Eastern NC
I got the front springs installed with my regular old ratchets and such (read no air tools). My problem is getting the rear shocks out.

I can't get the nuts off the top of the shock mount. Am i going to have to somehow loosen the trunk? Will i be able to do it if i buy some of the ratcheting wrenches?

thanks in advance for help.

i must say that the front drop looks absolutely awesome. not having the rear eibachs in also solves the problem of the headlights shining into oncoming traffic
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Old 02-18-2006, 10:11 AM
  
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Wilds of Canada, or the Pac NW, or the Upper Penninsula of MI...
Quote:
Originally Posted by OBXSOL
I got the front springs installed with my regular old ratchets and such (read no air tools). My problem is getting the rear shocks out.

I can't get the nuts off the top of the shock mount. Am i going to have to somehow loosen the trunk? Will i be able to do it if i buy some of the ratcheting wrenches?

thanks in advance for help.

i must say that the front drop looks absolutely awesome. not having the rear eibachs in also solves the problem of the headlights shining into oncoming traffic
Yeah, the upper nuts are hard to get to because of the tub.

It takes an open end wrench to get it loosened - you can only turn it a little bit each time (and do the turn, flip-wrench-over, turn, flip-wrench-over...) if your car seems to have built with the tub very close to the stud on the shock. If you can get both of them turned a couple of threads, the stud will be low enough (as the shock drops out of position) to get a closed end rachet wrench over it - IF you have one.

You can also, CAREFULLY, use a wide pry bar to gently lift the tub enough to slip the rachet wrench over the top of the stud. It takes more than a screwdriver, though, and pay attention - if you hear cracking, stop and assess what's going on. The tub is glass-reinforced SMC, I think, and can take a lot of stress.

While you have it out of the car, be very careful, but helping get to this in the future, you can knock a millimeter or two off the lead-in on the mount studs with a grinder. Just always remember you did this - and hand-start your nuts when reinstalling (the lead-in on the stud reduces cross threading).

Don't forget to pop the toe-link balljoint at the nut. I don't think you can get the shock out without doing that, and it's easier to get to than the upper or lower ball joint. And, unless you have both rears off the ground, you'll have to disconnect the stabilizer bar so you can get the suspension far enough in rebound to work the bottom of the shock out.

Try this, and if you have a chance, take pics - I'm sure people on the forum would love to see this process in action.

Good luck.
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