The dealer is not going to figure out the tune just by checking the trouble code. Dealers don't void warrantees, what they do is refuse to fix a part under warranty if they can prove that an aftermarket modification caused the part failure.
A faulty fuel solenoid is not a cause of your tune.
I would tell the dealer to make note of the mileage that the vehicles has as you drop it off. Tell the dealer you don’t want them to drive the car with out your permission.
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2008 Black/Black GXP, purchased 7/23 right off the train.
Mod#1 blacked-out headlights
Mod#2 GMPP Intake -I like to hear my turbo.
Mod#3 Special Sauce (23PSI)
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'07 Charger R/T Mama's car
Loose gas cap was my diagnosis at Pines Pontiac GMC in Pembroke Pines,Fla. Tech said it would take 5-6 regular engine starts over the course of normal driving to clear the engine light. 5 starts later the light went out, dude don't obsess, enjoy!
I consistently get the EVAP/PURGE dtc. I work at the dealership and my check engine light is the same code every time. Usually happens after hard driving, then idling for more than 3 minutes. Just the solenoid sticking or something else up with the fuel system, but as far as the techs know and my own experience, no drivability problems. I personally don't think it dictates a service visit to fix. I trust the techs, but am always iffy, if they cannot land the source of the problem without taking stuff apart, I'll live with it. This has happened before and after having the GMPP CAI and Westers Tune. Hope this helps.
Hey GXP0514. Thanks so much for sharing this information.
Out of curiosity, have you noticed any funky behavior after you fill up your tank and then start it?
Basically, after the CEL came on the first time, I disconnected the battery for half an hour to reset it. Then I drove up to the gas station to top it off (had about 1/4 of a tank left). When I finished filling up, I started the car and it started funky. I also noticed when I drove out of the gas station the exhaust was not burbling like it always does. I've never heard my exhaust not burble in first gear. At first I thought it was probably something to do with me disconnecting the battery and the ECM was "relearning" my driving style or something. When I found that thread on the Chevy Avalanche forum, those guys said they had the same problem when filling up their trucks and the startup issues.
I'm going to go fill it up here in a little bit and I'll post back if it acts funky after I start it back up.
I went to the gas station a little bit ago and topped it off. It definitely had issues starting up afterwards. Engine turned over about 7 times before firing up.
I have had the starting problem three or four times since ownership. The starter cranks but the engine dosen't fire right off the bat and seems like 5-10 sec. However, my problems are never after a fill up (that I could remember). The first time was after doing a third gear donut for way too long (our cars do not have a pressurized oil reserve, ala corvette) and as soon as I stopped, the engine died and I thought I killed it due to the centrifugal forces upon the oil, and I thought fried my engine. Well, I didn't fry the engine but I had the starting issue you described. The next two times, was when I was installing the Westers Tune ECM, but I attribute that to operator error. The only other time I can recall was one morning before I left the garage and it acted the way you describe. I did not have a different exhaust tone/sound with any of these issues. Hope this helps, but your car MAY have a more "touchy" fuel related problem, the same as mine.
Also, this happens with this code EVERYTIME before the check engine light comes on. CHECK GAS CAP. I usually am idling at a stoplight/drive-thru and if I do not turn the vehicle off quickly enough, the CEL pops on with this code. More on this, my first gas cap was a POS and barely stayed on. I swapped it with a new one and the locking mechanism works a little better and the CEL for this code stays away longer. Perhaps if you changed gas caps, it might stay away longer too. Not sure though, just my experience.
One last thing, due to this "problem", I figured something is up with the fuel system so I do not overfill my tank (not saying you do ) I am done after the first click. This may allow the system to work in the proper fashion vs the computer trying to figure out how to purge a "to the brime" fuel level and may prevent the PURGE/EVAP code from showing its ugly head due to the the "problem" not being severe enough to trip it.
I know these are "what if's" and I'm sure the dealer can fix it properly but I choose to live with it and not be concerned with a purge/evap problem. But it is annoying. I hope this helps.
I went to the gas station a little bit ago and topped it off. It definitely had issues starting up afterwards. Engine turned over about 7 times before firing up.
Houston...we have a problem.
This is a good time to bring up a nasty bad habit that I am sure many of you are guilty of - which can not only lead to a CEL and hard starting but is also bad for the environment. All cars since teh 70s have evap systems usually with charcoal canisters. The purpose is to collect and absorb excess fuel and fuel fumes. Saturating teh system wit hraw fuel negates its purpose and causes it on some vehicles to hiccup.
The improper procedure many of you are doing is topping off the fuel tank after the auto-shutoff has shut off. Blipping the handle to get every last drop of fuel you can into your car is the problem and its fix is simple - when the pump shuts off - that's it, return the nozzle to holder, pay for your fuel and be on your way.
__________________
When more than one friend wants to ride shotgun
Pontiac 1926-2010
"We hardly knew 'ya"
Confusion say: "If it ain't broke...give government a crack at it."
This is a good time to bring up a nasty bad habit that I am sure many of you are guilty of - which can not only lead to a CEL and hard starting but is also bad for the environment. All cars since teh 70s have evap systems usually with charcoal canisters. The purpose is to collect and absorb excess fuel and fuel fumes. Saturating teh system wit hraw fuel negates its purpose and causes it on some vehicles to hiccup.
The improper procedure many of you are doing is topping off the fuel tank after the auto-shutoff has shut off. Blipping the handle to get every last drop of fuel you can into your car is the problem and its fix is simple - when the pump shuts off - that's it, return the nozzle to holder, pay for your fuel and be on your way.
Just to clarify my definiton of "topping off"...
I NEVER squeeze the pump handle after it clicks the first time when it has finished.. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.
So after the last few fillups my car still has trouble starting correctly afterwards. It's exactly as if the engine is flooded when I start it up and the engine turns over about 8 times before it finally starts. It seems it is progressively getting worse.Today I did a test at the gas station...
When I got to the gas station and before I filled up the tank I unhooked the EVAP purge line that goes into the intake. I then filled up the tank. As it was filling up I could smell the fuel vapors coming out of the line. After the tank was full I plugged the EVAP line back into the intake and started the car. STARTED PERFECT!
So this is what I am guessing is happening...
There are two EVAP purge valves; one at the engine (intake) and one at the fuel tank, correct? And if so, one of the two is stuck open. Which one is supposed to be closed and which one is supposed to be open when the car is turned off? Or are both of them supposed to be closed?
I'd like to know the answer to this so when I take my car to the dealership I can tell them exactly what I have done to troubleshoot the issue and what I think is the problem without sounding like too much of a tool. That and the fact that I have done several mods and don't want them to try and place blame on what I have done to the car that could have caused this issue.
Any help anyone can provide would be VERY MUCH appreciated.
Finally took it in to the dealer today. I asked to talk to the mechanic who would be working on my car. They let me talk to him and I got to explain everything I have done to troubleshoot. He then said, "yeah, that's actually a fairly common problem." A few hours later, I got my car back and I'm all back to normal.
Finally took it in to the dealer today. I asked to talk to the mechanic who would be working on my car. They let me talk to him and I got to explain everything I have done to troubleshoot. He then said, "yeah, that's actually a fairly common problem." A few hours later, I got my car back and I'm all back to normal.
So is it under the mayan temple on or near a charcoal canister or was it the one in the middle of the intake manifold inline with the one way plastic valve going back to the tank?
So is it under the mayan temple on or near a charcoal canister or was it the one in the middle of the intake manifold inline with the one way plastic valve going back to the tank?
I don't know for certain but I'd be willing to place a bet that it was the purge valve at the charcoal canister.
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) I am done after the first click. This may allow the system to work in the proper fashion vs the computer trying to figure out how to purge a "to the brime" fuel level and may prevent the PURGE/EVAP code from showing its ugly head due to the the "problem" not being severe enough to trip it.
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