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Old 07-26-2006, 05:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Car Washing / Basics

Here is an article I wrote for a local newspaper, thought I owuld share it with you.

Car Washing/Basics

I spend a great deal of time helping people with their car care needs.
The number one question I get asked is about how to properly wash a
car. Many people are going to automatic car washes these days because
it’s convenient and saves time. The reality is that the best procedure
and the way to ensure a great finish is to hand wash your car
yourself. Before I discuss the steps on hand washing, let’s take look
at the different automatic washes and how they affect your car. I have
had many people tell me their car looks great and all they do is run it
through a car wash once a week or so. I have also heard a number of
people tell me they had wheels damaged, antennas broken, outside
mirrors cracked, and paint swirled from automatic washes. To those
having good luck using automatic washes, eventually your luck will
end. Odds are that at some point your car will get damaged. The brush
car washes come in direct contact with your car’s finish. This is how
swirls occur in paint. The touch-less wash is better for your finish
and is the preferred method for cold weather washes when you can’t do
it yourself outside. The best solution is to make sure you properly
detail your car twice a year, getting a good quality paint sealant on
the finish. Hand wash whenever possible, and only use a touch-less
pressure wash in cold months. If you clay your car during every
complete detail, it will be easier to maintain during the cold months.
(See my web site for how to clay www.perfectautofinish.com)
When you hand wash always use car wash soap -- NEVER use dish detergent
or laundry soap. Work in the shade; the sun can cause water spots.
Use the two bucket method – one bucket for soap, one for rinsing. Use
chenille mitts or micro fiber mitts, don’t use sponges or towels.
Have some all-purpose cleaner on hand for the wheels and tires, Simple
Green or 409 work well. To start, rinse the car, getting it wet from
top to bottom. Starting at the top and working with the soapy water
solution and wash mitt, do a small section at a time, rinsing as you
go. Pay attention to problem areas that won’t come off with the soap,
like tar and overspray. Don’t worry about those areas now; come back
to them after the initial wash. Change water as often as necessary,
depending on how dirty your car is. When you take the mitt from the
soapy water to the finish, return it to the plain water bucket, that
way you won’t transfer contaminants back to your car. After you wash
the entire vehicle, rinse well. Before you get to the wheels and
tires, you should dry the car so water spots don’t occur. To dry, use
an electric leaf blower and a waffle weave micro fiber towel. Don’t
use terri towels or chamois because they can scratch the finish. The
electric leaf blower will get water out from behind emblems, trim,
molding and other areas where water can sit and hide. Next, spray some
all purpose cleaner on the tires and wheels. Use a wheel brush and
soapy water to clean tires, wheels and wheel wells. For stubborn brake
dust, use an alkaline cleaner (see my web site for more info) then
rinse well. Now go back and inspect the finish. If you see any
foreign contaminant on the finish, use a small piece of clay to remove
it. Spray some water based dressing on the tires, stay away from
solvent dressings. Make sure you move the car up a little to dress the
underside of the tire. Apply a coat of wax or paint sealant on
wheels. Keep in mind that it is extremely important to clay your car;
this procedure removes surface contaminants that do not come off during
the wash cycle. (for claying information see my web site) Drying your
car without removing these particles will create all sorts of problems
like swirls and scratches. If you follow these simple guidelines you
will keep your car looking its best.
Gary Kouba, Owner Perfect Auto Finish

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Old 07-26-2006, 07:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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not sure ..wondering if i'm doing clay rite ? basically same amount of time as applying sealant ? rub on wipe off? how long , much rubbing with clay ...( on clean area - not an obvious stain or contaminant ? ( already has sealant- will it take more claying to remove sealant 1st ? or will the sealant and wax come off easily..... didn't seem like it took anything off really ??( sol)
also curious if i clay 6 year old truck ?? much more time or will bumps EVER come out ?? ( paint looks GREAT- but i can feel bumps )
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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read the sticky titled detailing basics, I have clay procedure there, basically you should clay when you do a full detail, then you follow up with polishing and sealing the paint, use lots of lubrication when you clay, you will be fine. Gary
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Old 07-27-2006, 09:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: Just enjoying life driving my Solstice
I live out in the country and am on well water. Water is hard. I have to dry my car ASAP so I don't get water stains. She is precious to me, so she alaways has to look her. I use Meguires products and have done well so far. Like the idea of the leaf blower though.
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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waxing/sealant?

This article was very helpful. I followed it better than the stickies...but where does the waxing come in (and with what products.)
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I'm in love with this car!!
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Old 08-02-2006, 05:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Check out the sticky titled first detail. Gary
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Gary,

I got the Microtex Micro Fibre mit. I also got a big blue Simoniz Microfibre Car Drying Towel. It doesn't say anything about "waffle weave" on it. It is definitely fluffy - more so on one side than the other. Is this the wrong thing to use? I also got some Simple Green Car wash detergent.

Lordy! You'd think I'd never washed my car before!!! I must be losin' it! I gotta keep reminding myself: It's a car stupid ... not a baby!

Eliza
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Delivered - WRONG COLOUR!!!

September 16, 2006 - I'M HAPPY! Wrong colour? Who cares?!!!
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You have a PM..............gary
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Old 12-10-2006, 03:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Swires drove me crazy

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomangt View Post
You have a PM..............gary
I got rid of my 06 EBONYdue to swirls and less then quality paint job. I now have an 07 AGGRESSIVE with super paint job and the 3 step miquire make her look great!
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Old 12-10-2006, 04:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Great post Gary!

Just got mine on 12/7/06 and can't wait for top down weather.

07 Sly, Ebony, Onstar, XM, LSD, Monsoon, Chrome wheels... all the options.
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Old 03-25-2007, 03:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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This is a noob question. This is my first rag top I have owned. I have seen the posts about using RaggTopp and I plan to get this product. What I need to know is when I am washing the car how much elbow grease do I put into washing the top. I am worried about pushing dirt and gunk into the fabric and taking off any protection applied. I use a pressure washer on a very low setting (less pressure than a hose with a nozzle) to just wet the car with water and then spray on soap. So when I get the top rinsed with water I then hit it with some soap. Then I guess I should wash it lightly with a mitt to get the soap to break down any stubborn dirt? The trick here I assume is to not scrub the top. I think than would remove the protection that has been applied. I guess I cannot completely avoid pushing some of it into the fabric. Finally, just rinse with water.

I was thinking that a fabric washer that would suck the water back out of the top (think something like a carpet cleaner) would be kind of cool. Once you have the top wet, soaped and clean you could use this to suck out the excess water and gunk pushed into the fabric. This is probably a silly idea.
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Old 02-16-2008, 08:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great cleaning info turbomangt, was just what I was looking for. This is what I use for glass.

I had a problem with my windows perma streaking, on the tops of the door windows ect.. Even thought I might have scratched them by rubbing too hard. Tried lots of stuff, nothing would work , luckly I tried some chrome polish. It works great. The only thing is to not apply it too thickly. Remember when you apply chrome polish you need to let it dry before you polish it off. If you apply it to thickly then you get flakes that fall from your buffing towel( onto your already cleaned surface below your window). Very thin coat works best, very, very easy to do, I apply with a paper towel and wipe off with microfiber cloth. Hpoe this helps someone

Last edited by Goldfinch : 02-16-2008 at 09:08 PM.
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