Detailing products

[turbomangt]

Hi Gang, I have my Sol in storage and count every day as we get closer to spring. For the new members out there, I'm Gary former owner of Perfect Auto Finish, I'm here to tell you not to waste your money on high priced detailing products. Even though I have no ties anymore to Perfect Auto Finish products, I still use them on my car. I have been getting TONS of perosnal e mails form people who are still addicted to them as well, and found great success in using them. The truth is with detaiing products, their is more "hype" in the boutique products, than substance. Companies like "Z" will invest tons of money into the advertising of their products then tag on a HUGE price tag. Most of those product are not bad, just overpriced. Perfect Auto Finish, invests more in the subtsance, and discounts the hype. Satisfied customers are the best form of advertisng. I stil find it hard to believe that people are spending $50-$200 on a jar of wax when they will get 30 days of protection out if it, no matter what you spend. The sealant that Kevin sells cost under 10 bucks and will seal 4 cars. ($2.50 per car)and give you 6 months of protection This is the same process that car dealers are charging upwards of $800 for one application. No wonder why PAF sealant is so popular. I still teach auto detailing, at various levels, if you are near Chi town PM and I will give you a list fo where I will be at. Hope to see some of you at a local meet, take care......Gary

[smartin]

If you ever get to the Metropolitan DC area, make sure you let me know.

[turbomangt]

Hey, I'm flying into Dulles DC in May for a wedding, maybe we could a class in the airport????

[smartin]

Originally Posted by turbomangt Hey, I'm flying into Dulles DC in May for a wedding, maybe we could a class in the airport????

Maybe not the airport. But we could work out something if you have time.

[BeachParty]

I'm just about to place a re-order of the products! I love the stuff!

Just sealed a brand new car Tuesday night (not a Solstice), and when I took it to get the clear bra on yesterday, the installer, who is also a detailer, was VERY impressed. He said the finish felt awesome! And this guy does top of the line work.

[wolfdogs]

I hope your reference to "Z" is not Zaino, because if it is, you could'nt be farther off base. One bottle of Z2 or Z5 will coat 9 cars and it last 6 months or longer depending on where you live, and cost's 12.50 to 16.95.

My neighbor tried Perfect Seal on his Shelby Cobra and did not care for it. It did not have the anti static properties that his "other product" had... I actually thought it did it a pretty good job on the car (it was a yellow car) but I still prefer zaino. that is a very respectable price you have on it though. And I agree with you 100% about people buying carnuba's at 44.00 to 200.00 a tin thats just full of coconut oil and lasts till the first rain. A polymer is the only way to go.. some folks like the amino polymers, like "R" brand, I dont care much for them but they are better than carnuba.

but it does pay to spend enough money to purchase the best quality detailing products, from wash mits, to buffing towels, to applicators...etc. preparation and application are 60% of the detailing act...if not done right, I dont care what you use, you are not going to have a finely detailed vehicle with no swirls.

[ktraver97ss]

Originally Posted by wolfdogs preparation and application are 60% of the detailing act...if not done right, I dont care what you use, you are not going to have a finely detailed vehicle with no swirls.

I think about 20% is patience too, cant rush perfection!

In regards to products, opinions are like (certain body part), everybodys got one! We offer what we have found to work the best and easiest for the right price.

[Goldfinch]

I detailed my paint job about a month ago. When I look at the paint on the top of the front fender in the right light I can see something like smudges. Does anyone know what I did wrong or did I just not do a good enough job when I detailed it. I used the clay bar and I used Mothers carnuba cleaner wax and then Perfect auto finish for the other steps. Just wondering if the reason was that I used elbow greese instead of a power buffer. Thanks
I am adding to this post on 5/5/08.
I found out what was making the smudge prints on my car. It is my car cover rubbing from the wind. I live in Wyoming and , ya the wind blows often. I bought the GM cover for the Sol. Then bought a cheap one from WallMart to cover my cover. No garage, do not really want to put the cover back on either. Hmm, what to do now.

[Go-N Def]

The correct order is:

1) Claybar (if needed)
2) Polish
3) Sealant (then wait 24 hours)
4) Sealant (then wait another 24 hours)
5) Wax

Forget the combo stuff (cleaner/wax) if you're going for a close-to-professional (or better) look. Also, forget the cheap Mother's and Maguire's stuff.

As far as Perfect Auto Finish goes, (as heard from another forum member and later admitted lto by Gary) when Gary owned the company, it was other brand products that were re-bottled and re-labeled. Their sealant was actually Poorboy's World EX Sealant with Carnuba.

A lot of the mail-order/internet-based retailers do the same thing. They find products that they like from several companies and sell them under their own label. But, I can't speak to what the new guy's are doing with the company.

It's hard to find one company in which all their products really work well. I prefer Poorboy's World products because they all work really well for me much in the same way that Wolfdogs prefers Zaino products (however more zealously ). Neither one of us would use the cheaper [quality] products. But that's just my two cents....

[imaj]

Actually Go-N Def the order is...

The correct order is:

1) Wash & Dry
2) Claybar
3) Polish
4) Paint Sealant
5) Wax

If y'all are serious about detailing your car properly. Get good quality products. Now keep in mind that there are a lot of good products out there. It is a big market. But, if your car has succumb to scratches and swirl marks you need a good polisher. i.e. Porter Cable polisher. With several different pads using two different polishes sometimes. Then you need something that will dry your car without scratching it. The best thing out there is the CR Spotless system. You never have to dry your car off again with a rag or microfiber towel. But, if you do not have a lot of time and this looks very overwhelming to you.Then find a very good detailer in your area and have them do it. It will set you back $200 to $300. But you will have a beautiful paint finish that will last 6 months.

[Go-N Def]

Originally Posted by imaj Actually Go-N Def the order is... The correct order is: 1) Wash & Dry 2) Claybar 3) Polish 4) Paint Sealant 5) Wax If y'all are serious about detailing your car properly. Get good quality products. Now keep in mind that there are a lot of good products out there. It is a big market. But, if your car has succumb to scratches and swirl marks you need a good polisher. i.e. Porter Cable polisher. With several different pads using two different polishes sometimes. Then you need something that will dry your car without scratching it. The best thing out there is the CR Spotless system. You never have to dry your car off again with a rag or microfiber towel. But, if you do not have a lot of time and this looks very overwhelming to you.Then find a very good detailer in your area and have them do it. It will set you back $200 to $300. But you will have a beautiful paint finish that will last 6 months.

O.K. So I forgot to mention the wash first , but if you are going to claybar, you really don't need to worry about drying the car. Now if you really want to get into detail, you should re-wash it after you claybar, just to remove whatever lubricant you were using. Then dry it.

Also, are you saying that you don't wait 24 hours after you seal it before you wax it?

Oh, since we're nit picking now, you're not sealing paint, the clearcoat does that, hence you should just say sealant, not "Paint Sealant"

[LiquidPT]

Originally Posted by Go-N Def O.K. So I forgot to mention the wash first , but if you are going to claybar, you really don't need to worry about drying the car. Now if you really want to get into detail, you should re-wash it after you claybar, just to remove whatever lubricant you were using. Then dry it. Also, are you saying that you don't wait 24 hours after you seal it before you wax it? Oh, since we're nit picking now, you're not sealing paint, the clearcoat does that, hence you should just say sealant, not "Paint Sealant"

OK, let's get picky:

1) You don't need to wash again after claybar if you're using quick detailer as a lube...
2) technically clearcoat is just paint wthout any pigment. Also, not ALL cars (yes, the sol does) have clear. So yes, paint sealant is correct. you are always applying it to "paint"

[Go-N Def]

Originally Posted by LiquidPT OK, let's get picky: 1) You don't need to wash again after claybar if you're using quick detailer as a lube... 2) technically clearcoat is just paint wthout any pigment. Also, not ALL cars (yes, the sol does) have clear. So yes, paint sealant is correct. you are always applying it to "paint"

Response:

1) When claybaring, you use a lot of quick detailer (QD) and it dries, leaving a lot of residue. Not exactly good to leave it there and start polishing (you can, but we are being anal at this point)

Now, you can go back over your car using more QD with a MF cloth and spend a lot of time and energy trying to disolve the old QD to wipe it up. It's much easier to do a quick wash and dry, for me anyway. Like I said, being anal about it...

2) Point taken.

[LiquidPT]

Originally Posted by Go-N Def Response: 1) When claybaring, you use a lot of quick detailer (QD) and it dries, leaving a lot of residue. Not exactly good to leave it there and start polishing (you can, but we are being anal at this point) Now, you can go back over your car using more QD with a MF cloth and spend a lot of time and energy trying to disolve the old QD to wipe it up. It's much easier to do a quick wash and dry, for me anyway. Like I said, being anal about it... 2) Point taken.

Ah, see, when I do it, I use a quick detailer on a small section, clay that area, constantly add QD as needed for lube, and then wiping the section with a MF towel. I don't let large amounts of QD dry...

[MSG_McKee]

I just knew this thread was going to turn quickly .... ... everyone has a different detail style and is passionate about their technique/products