First time using clay OR wax! (pics inside)

[mceb]

If not lubed properly it can be slightly abrasive...

Originally Posted by autopia Detailing clay is an abrasive system. If not used properly, detailing clay can cause light surface marring. There’s no need to fear if you use proper lubrication

[sonoransolstice]

I clayed my car as soon as I got it. Excellent advice and step-by-step Dori. After I clayed, I used Meguiars Show Car Glaze Polish. This REALLY brought the color out. After the polish I protected with 3 coats of pure Carnauba.

Don't forget the Polish step between claying and waxing. It makes a huge difference.

[SlySol]

Originally Posted by dori-san After a good bit of trial and error, I found that I was making a mess and wasting the detailing spray by spraying it right on the car and then using the claybar. I discovered that the best method for me was to spray a couple squirts onto the claybar in my hand and use it that way:

Kind of funny ... I actually started out just spraying the clay bar the first time I did it, but found it seemed slow-going to me and almost made me drop it on occasion because it didn't slide freely enough, so I ended up switching to spraying the car and running it across the wet surface. It did use a lot more of the detail spray, but it seemed to speed the process up for me anyway. Guess it's just a matter of personal preference on that one.

[Liam1694u]

Actually I think it was on turbomangt's new website or one of his posts that if you keep the car wet with soapy water, and then spray the area your directly working on with the detailing spray it works good.

[turbomangt]

I'm proud of the courage Dori-san displayed seeing he never waxed a car before. The description was well written. my thoughts on a few points. The reason most companies say to use a "side to side motion" with waxing is becuase they just assume you have not cleaned you car properly. (most people never heard of clay, let alone perform the fuction) so yes, you can cause swirls if the car has contaminants on it when waxing. if you do the steps as prescribed (wash/clay/wash/deep clean/polish/seal) you can use circular motion. I do it all the time. Thier are different grades of clay, most of time you won't need anything other than fine, it does the job in 99% of the cases. Clay will only be abrasive when used dry, or without proper lubrication. I suggest using spray and shine alone with soapy water. You should put the clay in the soapy water a few minutes initially to soften it up,but DON"T let it stay there, it will become too soft and start to break down. Dori-San, the Gold class is old technology wax, if you want to use a superior product that will last 6 times longer try my Ultimate series Paint Seal. its only 10 bucks, probably cheaper than the Gold Class, the their is really no comparision in quality. Most people are using synthetic oil in their car. why?becuase it has man made chemicals to lubricate your engine and make it last longer. no different in hi tech paint selants, it has polymers (from the greek word, poly as in "many" and mer as in "Units") in simple terms it has man made chemicals to co-exsist with your finish, providing a superior sacrificial layer of protection that blows any wax out the door. Wax is a natural by-product from trees, it has a melting point of 99* whereas my synthetic has a melting point of 392*. Combine this with modern technology, and wax falls into old school application. In my shop I have customers trailor me their cars from out ot state, the reason is becuase I make them look like show cars. My secret is using professional grade products. Hope this post helps, I admmire the knowledge here. some of you could be my assistant. Best.........Gary

[stang]

wash/clay/wash/deep clean/polish/seal

So how long will it take a novice to do this? And how often does it have to be done? It seems like it would take all day to do those steps.

[Clemsonjoe]

Claying a car is a process that is really easy to pick up and VERY, VERY benificial. Nice post Dori.

Originally Posted by turbomangt the Gold class is old technology wax, if you want to use a superior product that will last 6 times longer try my Ultimate series Paint Seal. its only 10 bucks, probably cheaper than the Gold Class, the their is really no comparision in quality.

Completely agree...Gary's sealant is a fantastic product. I actually top it with a carnuba to add a little more depth/shine.

[superfiero]

so would you see any difference right off the showroom of a car that didnt get done with a claybar?

[Clemsonjoe]

Originally Posted by stang So how long will it take a novice to do this? And how often does it have to be done? It seems like it would take all day to do those steps.

It took me about 6 hours or so to completely detail my finacee's Sol. That includes:

-Wash
-Dry
-Clay
-Wash
-Dry
-Tape off the trim, windows, lights, etc
-Polish with a Porter Cable 7424 and Lake Country Polishing Pad using Poorboy's SSR1
-Apply Gary's seal by hand
-Apply Carnuba by hand
-Clean windows
-Apply Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing on trim, wheel wells, tires, and interior
-Clean and condition leather
-Vacuum interior
-Polish rims


So yes, it basically takes up a Saturday or Sunday afternoon. But its SOOOO worth it.

[Clemsonjoe]

Originally Posted by superfiero so would you see any difference right off the showroom of a car that didnt get done with a claybar?

Well, you won't see rail dust on a car that's been clayed, but most likely you will on a showroom car. Using a clay bar is more for removing contaminants and preparing the paint for polishing/sealing/waxing. You won't "see" the difference (except for the absence of rail dust) but you will "feel" the difference.

Try this: get a plastic bag and put your index finger in it. Run it over the surface of the car and you will feel the contamination you otherwise wouldn't feel with just your finger. Then clay the car and try it again. Do this and you will understand the need for claying a car.

[turbomangt]

I judge a car by look AND touch. Sometimes a finish may look decent, but when you do the plastic baggie test, it fails bad. Eventually any car that is not clayyed will show problems. reason is simple, when you go to dry, you start to rub those mico particles into the finish creating swirls, scratches, and other defects. It takes me about 20 minutes to clay a car, expect the first time to spend an hour and a half or so. maybe longer. Once you get the feel, it won't take as long. gary

[superfiero]

thanks

[SOL FULL]

Good informative thread!

[dori-san]

Gary, thanks for your input on this thread.

I'm glad to know I can go back to the circles. (I was only talking about waxing, do you do circles with clay as well? I did the clay as a back and forth motion.)

And yes, I forgot to mention to wash it after you clay it. It was so long ago when I actually did this (i waited far to long to write this thread) and I cannot remember if I washed it after clay or not. I know that I was aware that I SHOULD wash it, so I believe I did. I was just writing the thread from my memory of these events that happened over a month ago, and the second wash wasn't part of that memory I guess.



And for Stang, usually I take a couple hours to wash and detail clean the car... but adding in clay and wax (especially for the first time) I'd say a minimum of 4 hours.

wash, dry, clay, wash, dry wax, let wax cure, wipe wax off. and somewhere in there spraying tire shine and cleaning the wheels. ...yeah, 4-5 hours.

on the frequency of claybarring the car... really only need to do it every so often. NOT every time you wax. I would say probably every 6 months or so.

[RidgeRunner]

Way to go Dori-San.
Can someone tell me what I should do to remove light scratches in the clearcoat.