GXP ZOK Stabilizer Bars Install

[Jack B]

I installed the both bars today. The front bar took less than an hour. It was staright forward and simple.

The rear bar took a little less then two hours, the procedure is as follows:

1. The rear exhausts have to be dropped. I have the Solo Street Race system.

2. In both cases you have to hold the bolt flange on the stabilizer A-frame bolt. I removed the upper bolt. That flange is on the outside of the stabilizer bar. Use a thin set of needle-nose visegrips. This allows you to break the torque on the bolt. I sprayed them with liquid wrench prior to removing. A stubby ratchet helps.

3. Remove the rubber hanger, this makes it easier to slide the bar out of the car.

4. Remove the bar brackets. I used the old bracket and rubber isolator even though the rear bar had a larger diameter.

4. In most cars you jack up the car to remove the bar, in this case that hurts the removal. Merely slide both sides straight out. That took a little time, it sort of fights you.

Both bars seemed to weight twice what the old bars did.

Question:
For those of you that have installed the DMM Probeam.

To drop the rear exhaust I had to remove the two band clamps. My Probeam did not come in yet and I do not want to reinstall the exhaust yet if I have to drop them again to install the Backbone - does anyone know if the exhaust has to be dropped to install the probeam.

[jinks]

i just installed my probeam and backbone brace, I have a full solo srq2 ehaust and didnt have to drop the exhaust system, everything went smooth with no problems. Total install time for both about 3 hours and love the new ride.

[I1ULUZ]

Originally Posted by Jack B I installed the both bars today. The front bar took less than an hour. It was staright forward and simple. The rear bar took a little less then two hours, the procedure is as follows: 1. The rear exhausts have to be dropped. I have the Solo Street Race system. 2. In both cases you have to hold the bolt flange on the stabilizer A-frame bolt. I removed the upper bolt. That flange is on the outside of the stabilizer bar. Use a thin set of needle-nose visegrips. This allows you to break the torque on the bolt. I sprayed them with liquid wrench prior to removing. A stubby ratchet helps. 3. Remove the rubber hanger, this makes it easier to slide the bar out of the car. 4. Remove the bar brackets. I used the old bracket and rubber isolator even though the rear bar had a larger diameter. 4. In most cars you jack up the car to remove the bar, in this case that hurts the removal. Merely slide both sides straight out. That took a little time, it sort of fights you. Both bars seemed to weight twice what the old bars did. Question: For those of you that have installed the DMM Probeam. To drop the rear exhaust I had to remove the two band clamps. My Probeam did not come in yet and I do not want to reinstall the exhaust yet if I have to drop them again to install the Backbone - does anyone know if the exhaust has to be dropped to install the probeam.

The end links you can use a 5mm allen wrench to hold them while you back off the nut.

And yes the exhaust will need to be loose or dropped out of the way to install both those mods. Unless you have to use the car just wait for the parts to come in and save yourself the work of installing, removing and reinstalling the exhaust.

[LatinVenom]

The rear insulators and brackets is a total of less than $25.00.
Do you self a favor and upgrade to the correct bracket and insulator or your 27MM rear Z0K bar will not work as designed.

[DRM]

Originally Posted by Jack B Question: For those of you that have installed the DMM Probeam. To drop the rear exhaust I had to remove the two band clamps. My Probeam did not come in yet and I do not want to reinstall the exhaust yet if I have to drop them again to install the Backbone - does anyone know if the exhaust has to be dropped to install the probeam.

I have the stock muffler.
I did not drop my muffler to install the ProBeam.
I did drop my muffler to install the BackBone.

[Jack B]

It is going back together, the Probeam is back-ordered 2-3 weeks.

I do not agree with the need for new brackets/isolators in the rear. That minor diameter difference is inconsequential. It will wear in and be form-fit before i get to the end of my street - just an opinion. All that the brackets/isolators are doing is guiding the rotational movement of the bar.

[Krazed Kanary]

Originally Posted by Jack B It is going back together, the Probeam is back-ordered 2-3 weeks. I do not agree with the need for new brackets/isolators in the rear. That minor diameter difference is inconsequential. It will wear in and be form-fit before i get to the end of my street - just an opinion. All that the brackets/isolators are doing is guiding the rotational movement of the bar.

You sir are VERY VERY wrong! the bushings will NEVER wear in, they would wear a groove in the bar first, and that would take a long time of very harsh ride. You are 1/2 right about the bushing function, but restricting that rotation is highly detrimental.
Anyone else reading this, install the proper size bushings, and use a compatable grease when assembling.
I don't know just what your goal is, best handling for AX, impressing the local Sat night mall lot parkers with how much money you have thrown at the car or ?, but it sounds like the latter. Mismatching suspension parts can/will totally screw up the Solstice's fine handling.