I donno, i drive in Los Angeles , north 405 fwy, it feels like several cars ive driven not only bottom out their suspension, but top out also.Driving over some of the street overpasses that were damaged by the last earthquake. Caltrans did a crappy repair job, so theres some big dips! What i believe your simulating by jacking it up. But most cars bumper blocks rub before the rims. What about going to a 19" rim. So how much is making contact? Is it just the lip? If so we need a different offset for the rear.Although the rims might stick out somewhat. CCW says they make 19x10.5 rears with no issues for (only) $2700. Can you get a camara shot of the interferance? Thx.
If the rim sticks out there is a greater chance of it making contact with the fender lip. It's not like we can roll that lip to gain clearance for the tire. Lower the car greater the chance of damage. If you have large dips in the road I think there is a greater chance of the car bottoming out than coming off the ground.
I measured the distance that the body has to move up from a static ride height till the upper rear part of the control arm makes contact with the outer corner of the barrel corner of the rim. 4 inches is a lot of vertical movement. The only reason I even brought it up was when someone who might get this rim goes to put them on the car they may not notice the interference, think the lugnuts are torqued and then have damage to the car/wheel/tire. I hand tighten the nuts, drop the car down till the tire is just on the ground, control arm is not close then torque the wheel down. If they take it to a shop it's something they need to tell them about when any work is being performed that requires the rear wheels to be removed.
19" rims might not make contact with the control arm at all when the car is raised. But there might be other points of contact to deal with. And the brakes look too small in such a large rim.
I've got a couple errands to run today and if I can get it up on the lift today I will take a few pics of the area of contact.
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Currently in the garage:
1999 Formula. 891 rwhp 9.85@146
2004 Ram 3500 dually 14.762@94.45
2007 Corvette A6 11.74@120
2009 Touareg TDI V6
2009 Solstice Coupe Deep #0199, A5, GMPP Turbo Upgrade 225rwhp/216Tq,
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I've got a couple errands to run today and if I can get it up on the lift today I will take a few pics of the area of contact.
Got it back up on the lift today and took a few pics where the wheel and upper control arm makes contact when the car is on a lift the suspension is at full drop or the car is flying though the air while in motion tires completly off the ground.
__________________
Currently in the garage:
1999 Formula. 891 rwhp 9.85@146
2004 Ram 3500 dually 14.762@94.45
2007 Corvette A6 11.74@120
2009 Touareg TDI V6
2009 Solstice Coupe Deep #0199, A5, GMPP Turbo Upgrade 225rwhp/216Tq,
60' 1.8143 1/8 8.2063@83.47 12.9054@104.65 MPH
Use to be in the garage:
2008 VW GTI, 2005.5 VW TDI Jetta, 2004 Scion tC, 2001 MB AMG SLK 32, 2003 Nissan 350Z Touring, 1990 Mazda RX7 LT1 hybrid, 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS, 1991 Toyota MR2 T
I donno, i drive in Los Angeles , north 405 fwy, it feels like several cars ive driven not only bottom out their suspension, but top out also.Driving over some of the street overpasses that were damaged by the last earthquake. Caltrans did a crappy repair job, so theres some big dips! What i believe your simulating by jacking it up. But most cars bumper blocks rub before the rims. What about going to a 19" rim. So how much is making contact? Is it just the lip? If so we need a different offset for the rear.Although the rims might stick out somewhat. CCW says they make 19x10.5 rears with no issues for (only) $2700. Can you get a camara shot of the interferance? Thx.
Picture is of 19x8.5 on front and 19x9.5 on rear. Eibach Sportline springs have been installed.
Minor inner wheel well rub at beginning which dissapeared after 100 miles.
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Many people get their car's suspension to hit full droop multiple times a year. I have one nasty highway expansion joint I travel almost daily, and I've definitely gotten the car's suspension to hit full droop on it by doing nothing but driving over it at the legal speed. I now avoid that lane entirely at all costs. I'm more concerned about dips/wallows then I do about pot holes. You all know what it feels like when you hit a wallow, and as you crest it, you can feel the suspension unloading. I've definitely felt my rear end come loose going straight over these dips/wallows at reasonable speeds, and that would indicate to me that I'm almost at, if not already at full droop.
Take out a ruler. Take a look at 4". That's all your suspension has to droop before your very quickly spinning wheel makes contact with your control arm. That's playing it dangerous to me.
Whatever. I mean, if you guys wanna take this risk, go for it. All it takes is one incident.
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