Detailed Oil change procedure

[Mayhem]

I was going to change mine this weekend, but I couldnt find the filter...I should have checked here first.. Now to find the drain plug...It didnt look like that under mine...Ill look again..LOL

UPDATE.

Got it done, took about 15 min. Easier than I expected. Lucky I had the 1 1/4 socket already. The pathway to get that filter is just big enough with your hand to get it out..LOL

[JLW]

When I do mine I jack up the driver side of the car(I use a ramp). That way the oil drain plug is on the lower side and more drains out.

I'm able to reach the drain plug from the front of the car as well.

[beancounter]

Originally Posted by Brazan GXP Great info. I found a wrench on Ebay for removing the filter housing top. Description: PONTIAC Oil Filter Wrench Socket Tool Solstice G5 G6 GM , Item# > 360198144780

My GM dealer didn't understand Mobil 1 Only, so I use a Subaru dealer to change my oil. They asked me to provide Mobil 1 and filter. I had discovered the need for a low profile oil filter wrench from this forum and added it to my shopping list. (They didn't need it.)

I finally tracked one down at a nearby NAPA dealer who tracked it down from another NAPA dealer in Tampa.

NAPA packages the wrench as "NAPA Service Tools", "Professional 1500 Series", "Oil Filter Cap Wrench 32mm". The NAPA packaging also has the number 3932 in the top left. I could not find a NAPA part number (unless it is 3932) on the packaging. It wasn't expensive. I keep it in the glove box just in case I ever need it.

[TomatoSoup]

32mm sockets are also available from Harbor Freight for about $3 (get the short one!)

[R&T]

Very nice write up. One small step that I do is pour a little oil on the filter before reinstalling it. I never put a dry filter on any car. That makes for quicker circulation of the oil when you start it up. Otherwise the oil has to saturate the new filter before moving on.

[Shadofax]

just finished the oil/filter change today, it really is very simple. I came across this writeup after the fact, but had read some other writeups. There was no need for a swivel socket on mine to remove the filter cover, just a long extension and the lisle "short" socket. Also I'd avoid the fram filter, AC Delco OEM stuff is available at most places, I bought 3 filters through Advance auto, and of course walmart has the 5 qts for like $26 right now, not sure why that link showed truck and suv but you just want the regular 5w-30 synthetic mobil 1.

This way I know the oil is what it should be, and the filter is OEM.

Edit: oh, the reset takes just a minute. I was at 61% but so what, the filter was not stock, I can only hope the oil was mobil 1 not being the original owner. I plan to change the oil every 9 months/3k is what it will work out to. On torque specs, heed the specs! Don't be trying to crank down on the drain plug or the filter cap. I found a writeup where someone mentioned putting a little marker or paint on the oil filter cap cover and the engine block and installing back with basically that same setting (assuming you were proper to begin with). They have seals, so don't go stripping, cracking, and generally mucking up stuff by overtightening.

[Mayhem]

Originally Posted by Shadofax just finished the oil/filter change today, it really is very simple. I came across this writeup after the fact, but had read some other writeups. There was no need for a swivel socket on mine to remove the filter cover, just a long extension and the lisle "short" socket. Also I'd avoid the fram filter, AC Delco OEM stuff is available at most places, I bought 3 filters through Advance auto, and of course walmart has the 5 qts for like $26 right now, not sure why that link showed truck and suv but you just want the regular 5w-30 synthetic mobil 1. This way I know the oil is what it should be, and the filter is OEM. Edit: oh, the reset takes just a minute. I was at 61% but so what, the filter was not stock, I can only hope the oil was mobil 1 not being the original owner. I plan to change the oil every 9 months/3k is what it will work out to. On torque specs, heed the specs! Don't be trying to crank down on the drain plug or the filter cap. I found a writeup where someone mentioned putting a little marker or paint on the oil filter cap cover and the engine block and installing back with basically that same setting (assuming you were proper to begin with). They have seals, so don't go stripping, cracking, and generally mucking up stuff by overtightening.

Also I'd avoid the fram filter, AC Delco OEM stuff is available at most
places,

So, what is this? Fram and AC delco make great filters. I use fram in all my vehicles from my hot hot rod to my daily driver and I have NEVER had any issues with fram filters. Also, I would never use a "MARK" to put anything back like it was...TORQUE it every time. To many variables.

[R&T]

I know some people don't like Fram because they have used cardboard in their filters in the past. Some people who run their filter forever had some problems back in the day with the cardboard breaking down and getting into the engine or something like that. I don't know if they still do or not but I did see a writeup and a disection of multiple filters and the Fram did have cardboard in there. I have used at least 20 Frams over the years and never had a problem. I've even seen them used on big motors for racing. I think most people go off hearsay rather than personal experience.

Google oil filters and you will see why many don't like them. I tried to find the link I was referring to but can't. There are plenty out there. I have also never taken apart my filters but from what others have done, some Fram filters are garbage and a few others are good. There are other garbage filters out there as well.

[Shadofax]

Originally Posted by R&T I know some people don't like Fram because they have used cardboard in their filters in the past. Some people who run their filter forever had some problems back in the day with the cardboard breaking down and getting into the engine or something like that. I don't know if they still do or not but I did see a writeup and a disection of multiple filters and the Fram did have cardboard in there. I have used at least 20 Frams over the years and never had a problem. I've even seen them used on big motors for racing. I think most people go off hearsay rather than personal experience. Google oil filters and you will see why many don't like them. I tried to find the link I was referring to but can't. There are plenty out there. I have also never taken apart my filters but from what others have done, some Fram filters are garbage and a few others are good. There are other garbage filters out there as well.

Here's the link:

Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

follow through the link with all the detailed info. and he has a link to recommendations at the bottom.

Personally I don't like heresay and I do recall some fram problems years ago, but again at this point I can't remember EXACTLY what, who, where, how many, etc. so it was a matter of not only the cardboard use internally, but weak casings as I recall that can rupture.

I used to use Fram many years ago, and simply changed my use based on more technical data I had seen. I never had an issue with a Fram filter, I just didn't want to have an issue with one if I could use a potentially better filter. I'm also not a big fan of Purolator Pure One filters for the exact reason he mentions in his article...lots of purolator data showing just how good the filter is at holding very small particles, but NO data on flow. To me a filter is 2 things, capture and flow, they get to a point where you have a potential tradeoff. So I stick with Purolator Premium (made in the USA if you can find them, not all are). For my other vehicle I have since switched back to the Motorcraft (usually made by Purolator with the premium plus internals and cheap at walmart and made in the USA). The AC Delcos I bought for this car are made in the USA and seem to go with larger pleats, good area for capture, but not super tight packed. The Carquest filter I just removed was more tightly pleated, same basic design, but definitely not the same, and made in Poland.

[Shadofax]

Originally Posted by Mayhem Also I'd avoid the fram filter, AC Delco OEM stuff is available at most places, So, what is this? Fram and AC delco make great filters. I use fram in all my vehicles from my hot hot rod to my daily driver and I have NEVER had any issues with fram filters. Also, I would never use a "MARK" to put anything back like it was...TORQUE it every time. To many variables.

actually the mark was very accurate when I torqued it back down. This is a plastic cap with an O ring seal. Check your seal, lightly lube, don't crossthread cap, screw back on. We aren't putting heads on here. The purpose of the torque spec is so that people hopefully don't try and crank this plastic cap on to make sure it doesn't leak. Just like the drain plug, I can't tell you how many times I've seen overtightened threads on things like magnesium transfercases, differentials, etc.

[omw41]

2008 Solstice Base Premium: I just did my first at home oil change. With ramps, it is a breeze. Thanks to everyone for all the great tips.

[carnut122]

I've used Fram filters for the past38 years without any problems. Here's a link to how they test their filters:

OIL Filter testing and engineering FRAM Filters - YouTube

OIL Filter testing and engineering FRAM Filters - YouTube

[Shadofax]

If buying the AC Delco Filter, be careful with those "lot" purchases on ebay:

pontiac solstice ac delco filter | eBay

Even though these PF457G"F" filters appear correct, they are slightly cheaper per filter than what I paid, and are not made in the USA, but say made in Bulgaria.