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Old 03-02-2007, 07:57 PM
   fuel grade for gxp
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My sales guy suggested just regular (unleaded) fuel. I am about to purchase a fresh tank. I'm used to buying the "high test" for the pony. Do I buy as he suggested or do I get the primo???
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:11 PM
  
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"get the primo" ... oh and that's what the owners manual says as well
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:38 PM
  
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Yep, get premium.
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:28 AM
  
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Originally Posted by JustMike View Post
"get the primo" ... oh and that's what the owners manual says as well

Thanks. I guess reading the manual would help...
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Old 03-03-2007, 04:33 PM
  
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:27 PM
  
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The car can use 87 octane, but you'll experience a performance loss. If the savings on gas cost is more important and you can live with a drop in power then it's fine.
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:45 AM
  
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The car can use 87 octane, but you'll experience a performance loss. If the savings on gas cost is more important and you can live with a drop in power then it's fine.
Yep, but then why buy a GXP in the first place?

If all else fails, read the directions! Pontiac puts that book in the glove compartment for more than ballast! You might suggest to your salesman that he read it as well, assuming he can read, considering the advice he's handing out...
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Old 03-04-2007, 06:12 PM
   Penny wise...
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You pay $30k+ and your talking about what saving $2.50 a tank! Use the right grade.
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:47 PM
  
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I've been using Shell V-Power gas, Castrol Syntec oil, and Mequires or Black Magic wax. The best for the best.
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:34 PM
  
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Whatever octane you select (and premium is preferred, but knock sensor will adjust timing to compensate for 87, as B said) you are requested by GM to use "Top Tier" gasoline. These fuels have passed rigorous standards for cleansing and cleanness. Not all major brands nor all grades qualify. For example, BP/Amoco has not subjected their gas to GM's test but claim that their highest grade (usually 93) passes all of teh "top tier" requirements. They are silent on their other grades. And bear in mind that regardless of what grade you select, there are only two grades of fuel in teh underground tanks, lowest and highest octanes. All blending, even for Sunoco with 4 or 5 grades, is done at the dispenser.
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:12 PM
  
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Originally Posted by JustMike View Post
"get the primo" ... oh and that's what the owners manual says as well

It cost ~$2.50 extra at fill up ... small price to pay and the car gets over 32 mpg on the Hwy.
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:39 PM
   Primo
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With summer coming on, I would use premium exclusively. I've gotten by with mid grade in both my 10:1 CR ZZ4 (in my Camaro) and my '04 PT Cruiser HO Turbo. When the temp is low and if you keep off the throttle, you can get away with it, although the computer will cut back on timing and richen up fuel mix to compensate if it senses any ping. With premium gas, the comp will make full use of the available fuel mix/spark timing to optimize combustion (more efficiency/HP/gas milage).
They're right. For a dime or two a gallon, you get all 260HP. Cheat and you'll drop quite a few ponies and maybe do some damage in spite of the smarter-than-a-12-year-old computer. Pinging is bad. Detonation is unacceptable.
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:29 AM
  
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do you guys have heavy foot days and takin it easy days?

I do

I love to take my sol on long drives, usually a casino, I love to see what kind of gas mileage I can get

that means no heavy foot, lots easy up and coasting down

over 150 miles I've averaged as much as 38.4 mpg using the computers calculation

when I'm going on one of these long drives with full intention of never playing rough, I use mid grade and love doing it

really, this isn't a price saving thing, it's as much fun for me doing this as driving the twisties, like shoveling snow instead of the snow blower, I love it

I was listening to someone on the radio one day who can average over 50 mpg on just about any car just by his driving technique and on most small american cars can do 100 mpg

this is called "driving without breaks" and he has documented over a thousand miles a tank on conventional cars

cool

it's hard to get the right calculation frim the computer or even your own odometer becuase to really "drive without breaks" you have to turn your car off when going down hill which I won't do...(too dangerous not to have power and shuts the computer down so it won't record miles or mileage)

you'd have to turn the car on while the engine was off so the computer kept running tpo get odometer registered and I don't think it will tabulate your gas mileage correctly anyway if the car isn't running.

another thing this guy does is turn the car off at long lights (no, starting the car doesn't use more gas then it saves, that was old carberator cars and even then wasn't always true, though it does obviously add wear to your starter)

anyway, there are times when I actually insist on mid range gas and there are times I insist on high test...my only real requirement when getting a lower grade car is it has to be upper tier

one thing though;

excelpt for what's in the gas lines I don't think there is any lag time between your mid range gas and high test as far as the computer is concerned...in other words I think disonnecting the battery or pulling fuses doesnt't do anything at all and even if it were true it would do nothing until the gas existing in the lines was cleared anyway

I believe the computer simply pulls timing and adjusts mixture when it senses knock, it doesn't go into a differant mode, it just adjusts on scenario...like your altitude sensor

the altitude sensor doesn't need "time to adjust" when you go down the mountain, it adjusts in real time on a per situation protocol

I can't believe the computer has differant "modes" that it sets to per tank...from what I've read and researched it simply pulls timing and adjusts mixture as it senses respective failure

ok, carry on

for those interested, google "driving without breaks"...pretty interesting guy you're gonna pull up

Last edited by perris : 03-14-2007 at 07:52 AM.
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