Alright, as I hinted in an earlier post, we took the GXP (magnaflow exhaust, K&N) to the track for the first time during a viper track day...
We were split into 2 run groups, slow and fast. My wife took the GXP onto the track in the slow group, with some noob drivers, and some seasoned drivers in their street cars.
Her first session was great, she passed some vipers, it was a riot (they were the noobs).
I then took it during the second slow track session (after a run in my race prepper GTS with all the other race prepped vipers in the "fast" group).
I have to say I was impressed, my lap times were only about 5-7 seconds slower than my full slicks, race prepped GTS (admittedly this was the technically challenging, low speed track, 110MPH max, on the faster, 140MPH track, the GXP would be dead meat). The car performed flawlessly for 10 minutes (I even passed some seasoned drivers, which really shook them up).
About halfway through, I felt major drag on the car, so much so, it almost stopped when exiting a corner. I immediately pitted, right off the pit row, the car completely seized, and all the spectators started yelling that the car was on fire. The fire engine raced by, and indeed put the fire out. Both front rotors were on fire (pictures are coming soon).
The car was completely seized for about an hour. Then, I could drive about .25 miles at a time before it would seize again.
I got it away from the track (I blew a tire on the GTS, so I couldn't put the GXP in the trailer) and hit onstar.
They came, took it to the dealership, and the first thing this morning, they had it all fixed....
What was it? They actually said this is the second time they have seen this on a GXP at this dealership so far... The panel under the dash wedges lose, and physically depresses the pedal down, freezing... This explains everything (brake lights were on, no matter how many ABS fuses we screwed with nothing happened).
They also checked all the brake components out, and nothing was damaged...
When I get it back tomorrow, I'm gonna crawl under there and see how/if this could happen again.
So, it's great news, we went from "this car will never see a track again" to "well at least the brakes aren't completely screwed". We'll see if I can talk the wife into taking the car to track again, she was really shooken up (to see her husband set her xmas present on fire, was pretty traumatic).
I still stand behind my assessment that the brakes could use some work. The GXP couldn't come close to out breaking my other cars (one ABS, one not) and even my non-ABS will outbrake this one in the corners. This could be an easy fix with pads, if the rotors can handle it.
Also, a higher-temp fluid is also recommended. Of course, the motul I put in this car boiled out (I think stuff on fire exceeds the specs on even red-line), I'd hate to see what would happen with the stock DOT 3 they put in there...
FYI, as soon as I got back, the SRT starting making terrible brake noise.. So, I hosed up 3 cars in 1 track day (of course none were my "fault"), so never think this is a cheap hobby...
Did they replace the rotors, pads, and calipers? When I was selling Olds in the 80's there was a run on Cutlass (rwd) and Ciera (fwd) with misadjusted brake light switches that caused the brakes to drag. This caused dragging front brakes that could get SO hot that plastic hubcaps (Cieras) MELTED, and the Cutlass could catch fire. The discs turned blue, the pads crystalized, and the calipers would leak if not replaced. Needless to say, when my demo Cutlass Calais burned to the ground (yup) the dealership became VERY pro-active. They didn't believe me at first, but after that they did - about EVERYTHING mechanical that I mentioned to the sales manager.
Check what they did. It can't hurt!!!!
__________________ Redline (pre-halt), Pearl, Black/Red
complete option list except auto, 3" MF cat-back,
painted calipers, owner installed power lock buttons
A fun filled but expensive day. Glad you enjoyed the ride around the track, did you have all the grannie controls turned off?
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BIX A BEL Cool, Ebony leather, Chrome, loaded, no XM/onstar Founding member of the "Lost Sols Club"
Deposit (1100) - 9/29/05, 1101/1102 - 2 Feb 06, 2500 - 7 Feb 06, 3000 - 8 Feb 06, 3100 - 13 Feb 06, 3300 - 13 Feb 06, 3400 - 14 Feb 06, 3800 - 24 Feb 06 (112544), 4000 - 24 Feb 06, 4150 - 24 Feb 06
dealer expected deliver 6 March, arrived 28 Feb, picked up that night w 3.2 miles on the clock :)
NOT WAITING ANY MORE!
Had it in comp mode, but I've noticed that doesn't turn off all the grannies (it still reduces power in a slide, or maybe the turbo was too hot...)
I had no symptoms before the fire, no. But after the issue the brake lights were on, etc etc.
Thx for the advice on checking it out. I'll be replacing the b. fluid again, so I'll check out everything while I'm in there.
I think the funniest thing is that all the vipers that got out-lapped have a different memory of the situation, and they all say, "well you couldn't pass me". Which, unfortunately, is true, the guys I was trying to pass would never let me by (too much pride), and the passing zones were the straights, so they pulled away there everytime... If only I coulda passed in the turns... What a fun little car.
Location: Wilds of Canada, or the Pac NW, or the Upper Penninsula of MI...
nsane1 - at minimum, you should use the Cobalt SS Supercharged front pads, and the Saab 9-3 rear pads. Much better at reducing fade and excessive wear. Brake Pads
Nsane, what panel? This is a panel above the brake pedal? I have to get under there and look at this. Is the panel screwed in place, clipped, bolted, etc.?
I am sure some of us would prefer to avoid repeating the rotor fire.
Thanks
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It is Cool, Leather, XM, Monsoon and different! :)
nsane1 - at minimum, you should use the Cobalt SS Supercharged front pads, and the Saab 9-3 rear pads. Much better at reducing fade and excessive wear. Brake Pads
Hawk does currently make their HP+ Track/Street pad for the Solstice. $91 for the Front and $72 for the Rear. From what I can tell it is the most aggressive pad currently available for both the front and rear of the car.
HP+ Quick Facts:
Designed to get you to and from the track without requiring a brake change.
Operating Range: 100-800 F, 38-482 C
Warning: Due to this product's dramatic friction levels, the user may notice increased noise, dust and pad and rotor wear.
After pulling off the wheels again, and going over it with the tech, I have to say I am amazed by this car.. I found where the fire was coming from (a vent hole in the rotors), and being that it got that hot, and there is absolutely no damage whatsoever speaks volumes as to how this thing is built...
I went through the panel again... Look way back there.. You'll find a panel that has a piece that juts between the throttle and brake pedals. This looks like a worthless piece, that I'll be cutting off. This piece dropped down and mashed the pedal, and I can see no reason why it is there (it's not cosmetic, you can't see it).
After talking to the tech at the dealership, they's seen 3 now, we might see a recall on this item, since it's so early. I had them take extra cars in putting this panel up again, it seems pretty sturdy now ((I pulled pretty hard, and it didn't budge).
Thanks for the hints on the pads, I'll definately look into that.