Timing chain keeps jumping teeth - Pontiac Solstice Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Timing chain keeps jumping teeth

So this is the second time we have had the front cover and the valve cover off of the car, We have followed the manual to install new timing components to the T but everytime we start the car it throws P0016 and P0017 camshafts not in correlation with the crankshaft then we pull the valve cover and the marks are exactly 1 tooth off. We have hit the tensioner to release the spring i honestly have no idea what it could be tbh.
any ideas?


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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 06:02 PM
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Did you replace the chain? If so, are you 100% certain its the correct one?
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 06:11 PM
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Could this be the issue you are having?

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Yean no i returned the set i got from the parts store and just ended up getting all the parts from the dealer, it was a little more expensive but its vin specific so i know they are right, I talked to dave from ddm and he was saying that even though the chain looks like its in the right position it cans till be off, he also said to turn the engine over manually till it comes all the way back up again. Fingers crossed


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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Update so im not sure if its jumping a tooth now or what but when my mechanic lines the marks up with the correct shaded links he will turn the engine over manually and every single mark ends up 1 tooth foward, the exhaust, the intake, and the crankshaft end up 1 tooth to the left.


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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:26 AM
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Update so im not sure if its jumping a tooth now or what but when my mechanic lines the marks up with the correct shaded links he will turn the engine over manually and every single mark ends up 1 tooth foward, the exhaust, the intake, and the crankshaft end up 1 tooth to the left.
What happens if he goes around a second time? Are you 2 teeth off then? I'm curious.



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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:34 AM
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Wrong chain.... Did you keep the receipt from the dealer? What's the part number? I can tell you if it's right or wrong.

EDIT: a former GM tech here at work said that when you replaced the chain, you moved one of the cams by 1 tooth and now your ECM is trying time the motor and can't, thus giving you a cam off by a tooth. He said that move could have been ever so suttle that you wouldn't have even noticed. He said he did it on a Cobalt SS and drove him nuts for 3 days till another tech helped him with it. - OR - you have a bad cam gear.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:05 AM
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My other comment is, when you did the timing chain and guides, did you change the tensioner too? If so, was IT the right one? If not, the tensioner could be shot. Any signs of chain slap on the front case? I've seen tensioners on cars with 10k on them be completely shot. The chain then jumps the minute the RPM gets above 2k. No tension at all....

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ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah we changed everything required to be changed.. we honestly thought we fixed it, got everything back togethor but it threw the p0016 code, before it was throwing p0016 and p0017 now its just 16.. I am at a loss of what could be happening.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 05:09 AM
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Yeah we changed everything required to be changed.. we honestly thought we fixed it, got everything back togethor but it threw the p0016 code, before it was throwing p0016 and p0017 now its just 16.. I am at a loss of what could be happening.
This is an interesting one as kaptainkcg was getting the same code. Don't know if he ever got it fixed. His started out with several other codes, but finally came down to this one. He was having misfire codes on 3 of the 4 cylinders as well, but eventually the p0016 (IMSMC) was the only code he had left. Here's the link: P0016 Code and Dealer Nightmare I can't stress enough to replace your camshaft solenoids, change the oil, make sure you have the correct level of oil, then see if you get the same code!!! If you do, then it's time to look at other items. I can give you the "GM" checklist if you need it. Just PM me with your email address. I also had the p0016 code and replaced those solenoids...no issue since...knock on wood.

Now if I could just figure out my dreaded p2188 code, I'd be all set!

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Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 06:03 AM
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Update so im not sure if its jumping a tooth now or what but when my mechanic lines the marks up with the correct shaded links he will turn the engine over manually and every single mark ends up 1 tooth foward, the exhaust, the intake, and the crankshaft end up 1 tooth to the left.
I can't say with certainty that this is normal for this particular engine, but what you are seeing is normal for a well-designed chain drive system. It is undesirable for a chain to mesh with its sprockets the same way on every revolution, so drive systems are usually designed with a "hunting tooth" so that the chain either progresses or recesses around the sprocket as they operate. If the same link contacts the same sprocket tooth on every rotation it will tend to wear one or more links/teeth faster than the others and cause accelerated drive failure.

As long as all of the sprockets are seeing the same change you are not jumping teeth.

Along with the camshaft solenoids you should also check and/or replace the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors and the camshaft actuators and all of the connectors.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE* We measured the ohms of the camshaft solenoids and the intake side was reading all over the place, lowest it read was 12 and highest was like 55 and i think they are only supposed to run between 8-15, we are going to try and clean it first and if that doesnt work then we will replace it, fingers crossed that this works, ive been kappa less for a week now D:


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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 11:39 AM
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Replace them both, intake and exhaust together....quit trying to clean them, it's impossible, and they're cheap ($43.99/each)....they're shot. If your resistance is off, no amount of cleaning is going to bring it back. They only seem to only last to 70-80k. Less if you let your car idle for long periods of time because of the carbon buildup in the oil.

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Solo Street Race exhaust
Fujita CAI
ASAP T2 stripes and badging
Windrestrictor V2 lighted in white
Windrestrictor lighted door sills lighted in white
DDM Works IC Piping
Undercar LEDs in white to match Windrestrictor

ZZPerformance dyno tuned - 286HP, 317ft/lbs of torque at 23psi of boost.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Got the call saying my mechanic replaced them, i guess its still throwing the P0016 code.. This thing is really driving him nuts.


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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 02:10 PM
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Got the call saying my mechanic replaced them, i guess its still throwing the P0016 code.. This thing is really driving him nuts.
Did he replace the camshaft position sensor also?



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