Bought a 2006 Turbo solstice last year and this guy put over $20,000 of upgrades in it. Hahn stage 2 tutbocharger, stage 3 upgrade kit, kevlar klutch, magnaflow catback system, etc. I have never know what numbers to set on the greddy for the turbo as far as gain, boost, etc. Don't think I knew what I was getting myself in to.
Now I am having a problem with the battery dying on me. Got it replaced and now it will sit for 5-6 day, and have to be jumped. Any help out there?
Do you have a multimeter? If so then remove the ground wire on the battery and put the meter inline with it and the battery with the car OFF, notice the amp reading. Start pulling fuses and replacing them till you see a noticeable drop. You'll have to do each fuse to see which one(s) has the highest draw that circuit(s) is most likely the cause of the dead battery. The remote door lock system will have a draw to run the receiver, the radio will have a very small draw to keep the memory alive the same with the PCM.
My guess one of the add on black boxes is not hooked up switched 12v circuit, and is always drawing current. You might want to touch each one after the car has been off and out of the sun for a long time, like early in the morning before you start to see if any of them are warm to the touch. Even a V1 will kill a battery if it's on long enough. Don't ask how I know this for a fact.
As for the GReedy stuff, I would do a Google search and see what each setting does and then go from there. Start low and work high and you most likely will need something to data log so you know when KR starts and then turn it down to a safe setting.
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Currently in the garage:
1999 Formula. 891 rwhp 9.85@146
2004 Ram 3500 dually 14.762@94.45
2007 Corvette A6 11.74@120
2009 Touareg TDI V6
2009 Solstice Coupe Deep #0199, A5, GMPP Turbo Upgrade 225rwhp/216Tq,
60' 1.8143 1/8 8.2063@83.47 12.9054@104.65 MPH
Use to be in the garage:
2008 VW GTI, 2005.5 VW TDI Jetta, 2004 Scion tC, 2001 MB AMG SLK 32, 2003 Nissan 350Z Touring, 1990 Mazda RX7 LT1 hybrid, 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS, 1991 Toyota MR2 T
What state/city are you in? If you're in a state with a lot of performance tuning shops, take the car to them and have them look over it. Might cost you a little, but it will probably help out a lot.
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2007 Aggressive GXP "Natsumi"
GMPP Tune, GMPP Intake, Solo Mach Shorty, Solo High-flow cat, SSR Type-C RS Wheels, DDM Backbone.
What state/city are you in? If you're in a state with a lot of performance tuning shops, take the car to them and have them look over it. Might cost you a little, but it will probably help out a lot.
I had thought the same. Find a good reputable "speed shop," and give them some time and a few $$ to make it right.
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Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
Why not just call Hahn tech support?. He is a supporting vendor here, go to his website and call them, it may surprise you.
__________________ Aggressive GXP at $25,995.00 shipping of $600, MT.
Options:
Air, $960; Chrome Wheels, $545; PCQ, Premium Package (Leather), $525; Radio, 6-Disc with MP3, $495; Monsoon, $395; Premium Acoustic Headliner, $150; and Sport Metallic Pedals, $115; all totals $29,180.00. No XM/OnStar and NO Spoiler. MODS (Magnaflow 2.5", BTF Turbo Upgrade wheel,DDM BB,ProBean&tune, K&N filter, Ventureshield.
First 1000. Aggressive with everything, NO XM/OnStar. SOLD
~~~~~~~ NASSOA
Founding member
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