I could take the car into the dealer but what if I don't want to??
Is it possible to do the repairs ourselves and what would it take exactly?
I am more than capable but have not done it before so that is the only failing point. A solid explaination or print out and I can do it myself.
Anyone thought about this?
My diff has started to weep after 6K miles on it. Go figure.
The diff is leaking and the new toy add-on is about here. This is a tough one.
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I visit here less and less nowadays. Leave a PM if you want but it may be days before I return to it.
I could take the car into the dealer but what if I don't want to??
Is it possible to do the repairs ourselves and what would it take exactly?
I am more than capable but have not done it before so that is the only failing point. A solid explaination or print out and I can do it myself.
Anyone thought about this?
My diff has started to weep after 6K miles on it. Go figure.
The diff is leaking and the new toy add-on is about here. This is a tough one.
I believe you have to pull the differential to fix this. So if you're up for that, then you should be okay.
I could take the car into the dealer but what if I don't want to??
Is it possible to do the repairs ourselves and what would it take exactly?
I am more than capable but have not done it before so that is the only failing point. A solid explaination or print out and I can do it myself.
Anyone thought about this?
My diff has started to weep after 6K miles on it. Go figure.
The diff is leaking and the new toy add-on is about here. This is a tough one.
My idea would be to ask the dealer what the price difference is between a CST-V differential and this one then pay the diference.
I have not touch a rear carrier in at least 3 decades so I do not know if bearings need to be installed and if so you need special tool to press them on etc.
That is why buying the STS-V or the CTS-V diferential and paying the diference might be the way to go IMHO.
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Last edited by LatinVenom : 05-11-2006 at 01:29 PM.
After working with Jeeps this should be like a vacation.
Just didn't know if the dealer-folks would know of any tricks or hidden pitfalls that I should be aware of.
Thinking about doing this myself since I want to exchange the gearing and will be back there anyway.
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Getting the part is the first headache and making sure the differential fluid gets completely removed (because contamination caused this) and putting in the right uncontaminated differential fluid back into the car are just other issues to be aware of.
Pinion seal part number is 88996592
Entire rear differential part number is 15825074
I just confirmed that 1500 pieces are in route to the Flynt MI. warehouse, ( they told me 720 the other day, can't explain the difference.) All the late news I've read on this issue does indicate contamination of the seal as a possible cause, and Tech's should definately change out all the old fluid to eliminate contaminating the new seal. They should add 4oz. of the LSD additive also, when they do this. The seal #88996592, is a re-designed part, for fluid compatibility, but as I mentioned in another post, there's no confirmation that the old seal was ever used in the Solstice, quite possibly negating that as a cause. Also be aware that some seepage is normal, from trapped fliud, after the new seal is installed. So hang in there guys, there's plenty coming. windface.
Originally Posted by Small Dealer
GM Bulletin:
Rear Axle Pinion Seal Leak - keywords axle fluid leak pinion repeat #PIP3671B - (Feb 2, 2006)
Rear Axle Pinion Seal Leak
2003-2006 Cadillac CTS
2004-2006 Cadillac SRX
2005-2006 Cadillac STS
2006 Pontiac Solstice
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
The rear axle pinion seal may experience a fluid leak condition. During seal replacement, the new seal may still leak as work on the vehicle is being completed. It is possible that when replacing the seal, the rear axle lube is seeping through the pinion bearings. The lube then gets past the rubber seal and gets trapped behind the metal "dust shield" before the pinion yoke is installed. When the dealer installs the pinion yoke, the trapped fluid is squeezed out and gives the illusion of a continued leak.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Inspect the new seal for the presence of the internal "garter" spring and make sure it is there. If not, use a seal that does have it. Also inspect the new seal for metal contamination in the grease used to lube the seal lip. If there is any contamination, discard the seal and use only a debris free seal that is supplied with grease. Prior to replacement of the pinion seal, on vehicles built in October 2005 and later, mark the 12 o'clock position of the seal before it is removed. Clean the residual lube from the old seal and use a permanent marker to mark it. Engineering is looking at all returned seals from this time period and this will help their investigation.
When replacing the pinion seal, first drain the rear axle fluid. This also helps remove metal contaminants that may be present and may have caused the initial leak condition. Next, remove the leaking seal. Install the new seal and yoke. Lastly, refill the rear axle. This should prevent the lube from being trapped behind the dust shield.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
Small Dealer's words:
While the bulletin doesn't go into why it is happening, it does have important information on proper repair procedure. It also points out a possible "illusion of a continued leak" that can appear to be happening after replacement.
The October date also gives the idea that changes have been made.
tweety; Even if you were to take this job on why would you want to chance the possibility that your problem can only be fixed by a carrier re-placement anyway. If you replace the pinion seal (and the dealer service tech can tell that the diff has been worked on before) the dealer may have some leverage (read:your fault) as a result of your efforts leading to the carrier failure / replacement. Just something to think about. Just take it in and let them do it.
Take it to the dealer. Just call them first make sure they have the new seal, then drop the car off. You should have the car back in a day maybe even the same day.
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Take it to the dealer. Just call them first make sure they have the new seal, then drop the car off. You should have the car back in a day maybe even the same day.
This is what generally keeps me away from the dealer.
I have a leak in the differential.
Are you sure?
Yes. It is in the back and I have x-size drops on my garage floor.
Are you that it is from the differential?
Can't be anything else back there.
I don't know...we'll have to take a look at it. Can you leave it for a few days?
BS. Like I would make up what is wrong with the car! BS, total BS.
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tweety, I know where your coming from. I just had a similar deal with my MX-5. There's a nylon assist strap (for the top) that had a few stiches missing, and instead of going the warranty route I sewed it up myself. A couple guy's on Miata.net have had their entire top's replaced for this, but doing this on my own saved alot of hassle IMO. In your case though, I would say the dealer should do it. Considering the issues going on with the carrier in the Solstice, I wouldn't give GM a way out of your warranty. If a good Tech. see's this seepage, he should have no problem wanting to do the work. Hint: be under the car at the dealer to point out the leak.
but a car still under warrenty, it should go right to the dealer
I am one of the few that don't follow the "dealer is right" mentality. Just because someone works at the dealer doesn't make them smarter than us. They are still just people that have to learn about this car as they go. Just like us.
As it turns out, I am caving to this one by going in tomorrow.
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