Did you disconnect the airbag light while it was apart?...
I was thinking the same thing. I sure hope he disconnected the wire. That light is very annoying at night. I've been nervous to do it for fear I might scratch the dash removing the chrome rings around the gauges.
AztekzRpurty,
GREAT THREAD!!!!!
Please see lil goat's and my comment above in this post. You did didn't you?
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Did you disconnect the airbag light while it was apart? I was thinking of putting a radar detector remote display where the stupid airbag light is, remove the lettering and just in case "oh that's the led airbag light package officer"
Yep ... I've got the same thing in mind. I actually picked up a remote-mount radar detector a few months ago, but I'll need to custom-fit a piece to mount the display in that area and I haven't taken the time to do it yet. So far, I just poked around back there to see what's involved and disconnected the light while I was back there of course.
Please see lil goat's and my comment above in this post. You did didn't you?
Actually, I left it for now. The connector is apparently child-proof. It and the warning flasher and the fog light connectors stumped me, and since all I really wanted to do was get the radio finished, I left them for now. It really wouldn't be 2 minutes to get to the back of the airbag light. Just pop the bezel and the tunnel piece and you are right there.
Tell me how you disconnected it slysol, and I'll do it this weekend.
heeseop, in answer to your question, being able to shape the sound with an equalizer makes a huge difference. Plus you can tell this head unit is running much more rms power. The Pioneer also has bass boost and loudness options that have it sounding very good. I'm not sure anything can be done with the back speakers, since they basically just blast into the back of the seat, but the bass from the door speakers is very good. Not a subwoofer, but good. I'm upgrading the door speakers next.
By the way, the tweeters in the A pillar are in sequence with the door speakers. They do not have separate wires in the harness.
Amazing work and great explanations.
Would you say that this is simple enough that if I drop my car off somewhere to have the heated seats put in, they will not mess it up? Also, is there room behind the dash below the radio for them to place the controls for the heated seats?
This picture shows the area you're talking about.
I'm not sure how big the controls for your heated seats are. There's not a lot of room under the radio area. There's plenty of room where the new pocket is, of course.
Actually, I left it for now. The connector is apparently child-proof. It and the warning flasher and the fog light connectors stumped me, and since all I really wanted to do was get the radio finished, I left them for now. It really wouldn't be 2 minutes to get to the back of the airbag light. Just pop the bezel and the tunnel piece and you are right there.
Tell me how you disconnected it slysol, and I'll do it this weekend.
It was pretty quick on mine ... maybe you've just got a stubborn one. As I recall, it was one of those where you push in a tab at the top and then pull the connector. Sometimes it helps to push them in a bit first and then squeeze the tab and pull back.
The reason your radio stays on is because you tapped into the constant power wire. Most GM radios today are controlled mostly through a data-BUS wire (LAN signal). It controls all chimes and warning signals, as well as accessory turn-on signals. The only way you can get your radio to turn on and off with the key is to get a harness that lets you gain control of the data-BUS wire (the only way you can do it directly behind the dash, that is). When I installed my Kenwood double din, I went to the fuse box and grabbed an accessory wire, it does turn off when the car is off, not after you open the door. I believe it was a brown wire in the main harness. I did try modifying a basic GM wire harness that had a data-BUS box, but the LAN connections are totally different, and I didn't recieve any signal. The only positive thing about not getting the data-BUS wire to work, is that my blinkers don't make that annoying sound anymore. Just thought I would put in my two cents
The reason your radio stays on is because you tapped into the constant power wire. ... The only way you can get your radio to turn on and off with the key is to get a harness that lets you gain control of the data-BUS wire (the only way you can do it directly behind the dash, that is). ...
So then how does the factory radio shut off when you turn off the car? You make it sound like the factory radio isn't connected to the accessory wire.
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So then how does the factory radio shut off when you turn off the car? You make it sound like the factory radio isn't connected to the accessory wire.
The factory radio turns off when you open the door, which means the factory radio isn't connected through an actual accessory wire. The entire audio system and multiple other accessories are powered through the DATA-BUS system. It recieves a signal from the door when it is opened and then turns off the power to the radio. For right now, you cannot have an aftermarket radio do that until someone (scosche or metra) comes out with an aftermarket radio harness adapter to gain control of the acc. turn-on signal. If you go to a stereo dealer, they have basic gm harness for $100-12o, and in them they have a box that has a little speaker in it. You will notice that there is a purple, yellow and black wire going into the box and a red wire coming out of it. That means that with the box and purple (Data-bus) wire, you gain an accessory wire that communicate with the data-bus wire, hence, your aftermarket radio will function exactly like your stock one did. Hope I didn't confuse you, it's hard to explain how it works exactly, but if you probed every wire behind you radio, you will have none give you a turn-on voltage when you turn the key on. So just go to the fuse box untill there is a harness available.
Last edited by cartmann32 : 05-10-2006 at 12:53 PM.
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