low profile amplified subs?

[waterland1371]

I was browsing around the internet looking at different subwoofer options and found a Boss BASS1200 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Sub. I have the moonson system in my solstice, but I find that the stock sub is lacking, and I'm jealous of the massage my passenger gets Anyone have any experience with this sub or a similar one? It looks like they're typically mounted under the seats, but I'm not sure about it fitting there.

[TbeaunTx]

Nothing could be mounted under the seats...a Bass Shaker (transducer) could be mounted to the back of your driver's seat and powered off a better amp than the monsoon. Anything more is going to require a good bit of custom work, unless you are going to simply replace the stock sub and use its enclosure (i did that - used a kicker 8" shallow mount and it is far better than the stock sub).

[SOLSTICE-D]

Originally Posted by TbeaunTx Nothing could be mounted under the seats...a Bass Shaker (transducer) could be mounted to the back of your driver's seat and powered off a better amp than the monsoon. Anything more is going to require a good bit of custom work, unless you are going to simply replace the stock sub and use its enclosure (i did that - used a kicker 8" shallow mount and it is far better than the stock sub).

How much work was it to put the new sub into the stock inclosure?

[TbeaunTx]

Originally Posted by SOLSTICE-D How much work was it to put the new sub into the stock inclosure?

Not too bad. You have to take the trim off the door sills, then, the rear corners with the rear speakers in them (unplug the speakers before you get them completely out), then the rear bulkhead. Get a set of stereo installer's trim-panel pry bars as all of these pieces are held in with clips that can break off, so you want to take your time and not force things. There are also two screws through the back of the storage box above the cupholder...remove them, but find a way to keep the nuts on the back of them (other side of the bulkhead) from falling down and getting caught where you can't retrieve them.

Now that you can see the sub enclosure, you need to unplug the connector at the bottom, and remove the whole enclosure (don't try to remove the sub driver from it). Once you have the enclosure out, flip it over, and in the back there is a bolt holding the sub driver magnet securely to the rear of the enclusure. Remove this and then all the screws in the front of the driver to pull it out of the enclosure. Once you have the driver out, there are a couple of re-enforcement ribs on the lower side of it that you can shave down with a dremel tool to make room for the slightly larger magnet on the replacement driver. This won't hurt the box integrity at all, it's plenty strong without all the ribs in it, so if you like, cut as much of them away as you like while you are in there, but there are really only two which might get in your way with the new driver as i recall.

Drop the driver in and mark the location of the screw holes, then pull it and drill new mounting holes as needed. The diameter is the same or very close to the original, but the pattern, and number of mounting holes will be different than the stock driver. Run new, bigger speaker wires to the new driver, through the same hole as the old ones, drop it in, and make sure to seal the area the wires run through and the hole in the rear where the old driver bolted on.

Put everything back together in reverse order. The new driver will require a lot more power than the monsoon can put out, so there are a number of choices for either a second amp, or a replacement for the monsoon amp completely. Most likely you will mount in the stock monsoon location behind the driver's seat, either in front of, or behind the rear panel, or as i did, on the passenger side floor mounted to the fuse box cover. These are covered extensively in the Audio section with pictures and instructions.

Cheers,