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Old 12-06-2006, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Chemist Mod: hard-wired garage door remote!

Well, it's done and it works! The guts of my garage door remote now resides in my windshield surround, wired into the mirror circuit, activated by a small Radio Shack switch!

Here are the tools and supplies I used:

Soldering iron, solder, wire, remote for door, wire stripper, screwdriver, and momentary switch from Radio Shack ($2.49).

I first disassembled the remote, removing the clip, then the screw holding the case together.


Here is the back of the circuit board with the locations (on mine) where the wires are soldered. The two to the switch are where the original switch on the board is soldered. Check these with a multimeter and see that the voltage goes from 12 V to essentially 0 when the switch is depressed. The two locations at the bottom are simply the battery terminals. Be sure to note which is "+" and which is "-".


This next picture shows the board taped inside the winshield surround trim piece. To the lower right of the circuit board is the Radio Shack switch which is placed through a hole made in the trim (Dremel rocks!). The switch is soldered to the (now) underside of the circuit board, and leads are soldered to the two battery terminals.


Here is a picture of the wires to the mirror, a small portion of the fabric tape that covers them split and pulled back, and two Posi-Taps installed on the blue w/white stripe (12 volt power) and black (ground) wires. (A BIG thanks to AztekzRPurty for putting me onto posi-taps! ). The red (power) and black (ground) leads from the circuit board are then fastened to these taps.


Finally, here is a pic of the finished install. The button is small and inobtrusive (note my tweety switch by the other visor!). The remote is powered from the car and so I never need worry about replacing the battery (or losing the remote, for that matter. )


IMPORTANT NOTE: THIS MOD WORKED AS SHOWN BECAUSE MY REMOTE IS 12V. Yours may 9V (or 3V or 1.5V), and you will need additional circuitry beyond my simple install.

I hope you have enjoyed our time together. There will be a quiz next week. NOT!

--Chemist
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Last edited by Chemist : 12-06-2006 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Great "How To" post Chemist. Nice detail and pictures...with that kind of detail you should be a professor.
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm interested in the Solstice outline decals you have covering the yellow warning signs on the visors. Could you post a better photo and where did you get them?

Looks cool and I'd like to do the same.
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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OK, call me a "mod moron", but my garage door opener uses a 9-volt battery, won't 12 volts cause trouble?
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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OK, call me a "mod moron", but my garage door opener uses a 9-volt battery, won't 12 volts cause trouble?
Yes, 12V would be bad to a 9V remote. You will need some sort of resistor in line to the power source to lower the voltage. Had I needed to do that, I would have been stumped (until I could grill my Physics faculty on the "how to").

I will find out what I can and let you know.

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Old 12-06-2006, 09:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well Done, Chemist! Your evolution into the "Ultimate Modder" is progressing nicely. I wouldn't be at all surprised to see your name placed in nomination for rookie of the year in the coveted "Tweetmeister" awards competition which are held in such reverence by those of us who continue to be dremel-challenged!
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm interested in the Solstice outline decals you have covering the yellow warning signs on the visors. Could you post a better photo and where did you get them?

Looks cool and I'd like to do the same.
I PM-ed you the vendor (not a supprting vendor here).

Here is a better (and much bigger ) photo.

--Chemist
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, I have two garage doors, and sometimes when I am leaving, I need to close both of them from the car. So, I guess I will have to use two switches. Although, I really wanted to use the blank switch location on the dash where the stabilatrac switch is located on the GXP. For now, I just have the opener velcroed to the floor mat right in front of the drivers seat. I just reach down and the button is right there.
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well Done, Chemist! Your evolution into the "Ultimate Modder" is progressing nicely. I wouldn't be at all surprised to see your name placed in nomination for rookie of the year in the coveted "Tweetmeister" awards competition which are held in such reverence by those of us who continue to be dremel-challenged!
It is my honor to second that nomination!

Interesting to note the number of tweetmeisters located in the Republic of Texas!

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Old 12-06-2006, 11:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well Done, Chemist! Your evolution into the "Ultimate Modder" is progressing nicely. I wouldn't be at all surprised to see your name placed in nomination for rookie of the year in the coveted "Tweetmeister" awards competition which are held in such reverence by those of us who continue to be dremel-challenged!
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It is my honor to second that nomination!

Interesting to note the number of tweetmeisters located in the Republic of Texas!

.
I blush!

This was a simple mod because my remote is 12V. Please do note that it would require some sort of voltage reducer if the remote is 9V (or 3V or 1.5V). I will find and post a diagram of a more detailed circuit.


--Chemist
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Old 12-06-2006, 11:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice mod and how to indeed....Bravo..

I will be following your pedels how to this friday, need to keep myself busy until the header and cat arrive.
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Old 12-06-2006, 11:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I was happy to see that my remote (Genie) is virtually identical to yours, Chemist. That makes my job a lot easier, now that you have blazed the trail!

I was amazed to see the battery, so tiny yet 12 volts.

I'll be interested in hearing how well it works for the next couple of weeks. I know as little about electricity as about cars, so perhaps my worry is unjustified. But although the remote uses 12 volts, the same as the car, could there be a problem with excess amps reaching the remote? I suppose the fuse for the amperage going to the mirror reduces that problem, but is it reduced enough?

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Old 12-07-2006, 06:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Chemist,
GREAT MOD!!! The Tweety era continues
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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OK, call me a "mod moron", but my garage door opener uses a 9-volt battery, won't 12 volts cause trouble?


Your opener may be a Chamberlain like mine was. I could come over this weekend and show you where mine is and we can get it done.
I put mine in the triangle forward of the door handle. This way it can be pulled off if the battery goes dead without needing tools. It's also out of the way and out of sight unless you know it's there.
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:04 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Chemist,
GREAT MOD!!! The Tweety era continues


Not all these ideas were mine. Old ideas, new car.
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