Yes, 12V would be bad to a 9V remote. You will need some sort of resistor in line to the power source to lower the voltage. Had I needed to do that, I would have been stumped (until I could grill my Physics faculty on the "how to").
I will find out what I can and let you know.
--Chemist
Unfortunately it's not that easy. Putting a resistor in series with a load only drops the voltage by a percent of the total load. Almost any electronic device varies the amount of current it draws depending on what it's doing, so at times the power supplied to it will be too much, too little, or, occasionally, just right. What you need is more like a regulated 9v power supply that runs on 12 volts.
Location: Long Island, NY... a sister island to the Hawaiian chain. ;-)
In an application like this, you can get away with a 3V zener, a resistor and a capacitor. You could probably even lose the cap.
Use an ammeter to measure the current draw of the circuit board at rest and activated. Use Ohm's law (R=V/I) to calculate the equivilent resistance to the circuit in both states.
Then...
Oh the heck with it! Send me the current draw of your board (quiescent and active) and I'll tell you exactly what to use and how it should be connected to power, ground and your circuit board's power connection.
Or you can look it up yourselves. Just search under zener diode regulator or something like that.
Well, I have two garage doors, and sometimes when I am leaving, I need to close both of them from the car. So, I guess I will have to use two switches. Although, I really wanted to use the blank switch location on the dash where the stabilatrac switch is located on the GXP. For now, I just have the opener velcroed to the floor mat right in front of the drivers seat. I just reach down and the button is right there.
That spot is just asking for something there isn't it . I've been flirting with putting either the door opener or a door unlock button there. I think I'm leaning more torwards the door unlock. I think that mod will re-sell better than the door opener. I have my door opener on the passenger visor, works fine for me. Having to reach/twist/contort for the lock when I stop to get the mail is a pain in the butt .
Mods: DDM Stage II supercharger, long tube header and cat, Probeam, and Race Backbone. Solo Performance SQR-2 catback. Norm's first center exit Solstice rear fascia. JPM center console. DashHawk.
I was happy to see that my remote (Genie) is virtually identical to yours, Chemist. That makes my job a lot easier, now that you have blazed the trail!
I was amazed to see the battery, so tiny yet 12 volts.
I'll be interested in hearing how well it works for the next couple of weeks. I know as little about electricity as about cars, so perhaps my worry is unjustified. But although the remote uses 12 volts, the same as the car, could there be a problem with excess amps reaching the remote? I suppose the fuse for the amperage going to the mirror reduces that problem, but is it reduced enough?
.
I too was amazed at the voltage from what looks like 1/2 of a AAA battery!! It is similar to what is in many cameras. It just contains a very high concentration of the chemical components to provide that kind of voltage.
I feel fairly confident that the circuitry will hold up to the amp load. Your assumption about the step down of power going to the mirror is the key to my contentment on the issue.
To all,
The larger Genie(R) remote seems to be 12V (as is the Overhead Door(R) model which I used). If it will work with your door, you can purchase one at Home Depot/Lowe's/etc. and do the mod, I would think.
--Chemist
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
Unfortunately it's not that easy. Putting a resistor in series with a load only drops the voltage by a percent of the total load. Almost any electronic device varies the amount of current it draws depending on what it's doing, so at times the power supplied to it will be too much, too little, or, occasionally, just right. What you need is more like a regulated 9v power supply that runs on 12 volts.
Thanks, Austin. I knew that (I think ), but posted before fully engaging my brain. As I posted just above, I think that the easy way is to simply find a 12V model that will work your door.
--Chemist (I do the easy mods. )
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
That spot is just asking for something there isn't it . I've been flirting with putting either the door opener or a door unlock button there. I think I'm leaning more torwards the door unlock. I think that mod will re-sell better than the door opener. I have my door opener on the passenger visor, works fine for me. Having to reach/twist/contort for the lock when I stop to get the mail is a pain in the butt .
Hey, do both!!
I've got the door opener by the driver's visor and the door switch by the passenger's visor.
This is a great car and a great forum with great people! I'm glad to be a part of it.
--Chemist (Have yourself a merry little Christmas!)
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
I've got the door opener by the driver's visor and the door switch by the passenger's visor.
This is a great car and a great forum with great people! I'm glad to be a part of it.
--Chemist (Have yourself a merry little Christmas!)
I think Revman was referring to the "blank" on the dash directly underneath the foglamps switch. It's on 2007 model year dashboards.
I was going to use that blank for my illuminated wind restrictor switch (I bought an extra GM Solstice foglamp switch so it would match), but instead I just put a Radio Shack switch in the waterfall storage compartment for the WR.
I now need to investigate the foglamp switch to see if I can use it with my garage door opener. It is not a momentary switch though - it's a toggle. It may work and I'd just have to toggle it on then off quickly. The nice thing about that switch is that it fits the blank hole perfectly and matches. The only issue would be the icon on the front is the same as the foglamp - although I could probably cover that with some sort of decal.
I think Revman was referring to the "blank" on the dash directly underneath the foglamps switch. It's on 2007 model year dashboards.
I was going to use that blank for my illuminated wind restrictor switch (I bought an extra GM Solstice foglamp switch so it would match), but instead I just put a Radio Shack switch in the waterfall storage compartment for the WR.
I now need to investigate the foglamp switch to see if I can use it with my garage door opener. It is not a momentary switch though - it's a toggle. It may work and I'd just have to toggle it on then off quickly. The nice thing about that switch is that it fits the blank hole perfectly and matches. The only issue would be the icon on the front is the same as the foglamp - although I could probably cover that with some sort of decal.
Chemist, that is a slick install . But if you go to sell, isn't it going to be useless to the next owner, or have door openers progressed enough to where they can "learn" a new remote??
Solcycle, I'm not sure but I think the foglamp switch is actually a momentary switch too. I think the BCM takes the momentary signal and turns the fog lamps on/off. Maybe somebody can chime in here .
Mods: DDM Stage II supercharger, long tube header and cat, Probeam, and Race Backbone. Solo Performance SQR-2 catback. Norm's first center exit Solstice rear fascia. JPM center console. DashHawk.
Chemist, that is a slick install . But if you go to sell, isn't it going to be useless to the next owner, or have door openers progressed enough to where they can "learn" a new remote??
Solcycle, I'm not sure but I think the foglamp switch is actually a momentary switch too. I think the BCM takes the momentary signal and turns the fog lamps on/off. Maybe somebody can chime in here .
Openers/remotes actually HAVE progressed that far. The new Intellicode (Genie) and CodeDodger (OverheadDoor) units communicate with the remotes. You push a button "Learn" on the opener itself, then the remote three (or four) times. At this point they are "aligned" and off you go!
Well Done, Chemist! Your evolution into the "Ultimate Modder" is progressing nicely. I wouldn't be at all surprised to see your name placed in nomination for rookie of the year in the coveted "Tweetmeister" awards competition which are held in such reverence by those of us who continue to be dremel-challenged!
That hurts!
Quote:
Originally Posted by tweety
Your opener may be a Chamberlain like mine was. I could come over this weekend and show you where mine is and we can get it done.
I put mine in the triangle forward of the door handle. This way it can be pulled off if the battery goes dead without needing tools. It's also out of the way and out of sight unless you know it's there.
I think Chemist and Tweety are both genuises! Man I hope I spelled that right.
I was happy to see that my remote (Genie) is virtually identical to yours, Chemist. That makes my job a lot easier, now that you have blazed the trail!
I was amazed to see the battery, so tiny yet 12 volts.
I'll be interested in hearing how well it works for the next couple of weeks. I know as little about electricity as about cars, so perhaps my worry is unjustified. But although the remote uses 12 volts, the same as the car, could there be a problem with excess amps reaching the remote? I suppose the fuse for the amperage going to the mirror reduces that problem, but is it reduced enough?
.
For a 12 volt remote, current will not be a problem. The circuit will only draw as much current as it needs.
__________________
Thanks, Dave Russell
Mallett #33
VIN #1G2MB35B27Y106697
Deep
Ebony Leather
Chrome
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. I've been flirting with putting either the door opener or a door unlock button there. I think I'm leaning more torwards the door unlock. I think that mod will re-sell better than the door opener. I have my door opener on the passenger visor, works fine for me. Having to reach/twist/contort for the lock when I stop to get the mail is a pain in the butt 
.
), but posted before fully engaging my brain. As I posted just above, I think that the easy way is to simply find a 12V model that will work your door.
I'm glad to be a part of it. 
. But if you go to sell, isn't it going to be useless to the next owner, or have door openers progressed enough to where they can "learn" a new remote??
.
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