Chemist, that is a slick install . But if you go to sell, isn't it going to be useless to the next owner, or have door openers progressed enough to where they can "learn" a new remote??
Solcycle, I'm not sure but I think the foglamp switch is actually a momentary switch too. I think the BCM takes the momentary signal and turns the fog lamps on/off. Maybe somebody can chime in here .
Yep, I plan on using a trunk opening switch. The one located in your glove box. That is a true monentary switch.
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Thanks, Dave Russell
Mallett #33
VIN #1G2MB35B27Y106697
Deep
Ebony Leather
Chrome
In an application like this, you can get away with a 3V zener, a resistor and a capacitor. You could probably even lose the cap.
Use an ammeter to measure the current draw of the circuit board at rest and activated. Use Ohm's law (R=V/I) to calculate the equivilent resistance to the circuit in both states.
Then...
Oh the heck with it! Send me the current draw of your board (quiescent and active) and I'll tell you exactly what to use and how it should be connected to power, ground and your circuit board's power connection.
Or you can look it up yourselves. Just search under zener diode regulator or something like that.
I don't think you will need to build a voltage regulator or a voltage divider for this application. I bet a nine volt remote will work just fine with 12 volts applied. When I get around to doing this mod, I will let you know. Anybody have the part number for the trunk unlock switch?
__________________
Thanks, Dave Russell
Mallett #33
VIN #1G2MB35B27Y106697
Deep
Ebony Leather
Chrome
Solcycle, I'm not sure but I think the foglamp switch is actually a momentary switch too. I think the BCM takes the momentary signal and turns the fog lamps on/off. Maybe somebody can chime in here .
Revman, you are correct. There are four pins on the back of the switch: A,B,C,D.
A-B nothing
A-C continuity when switch is pressed, zero resistance
A-D continuous continuity, pressed or not, resis=0.52
B-C no continuity, resis=1.9 when pressed
B-D continuous resistance 1.95, pressed or not
C-D continuity when pressed, resis=0.052
So - it appears A-C are the pins to use for a momemtary switch. I'll have to test it with a temporary setup this weekend with the opener.
The foglamp switch has the following part number:
15850572
After I paid too much at the local parts counter, I saw it on the web for $15.41
If this works, the real question will be: can I take the blank out and install the switch from the front of the dashboard without have to take the dash off? From the looks of the switch, it almost appears that I could push it in from the front and have it snap into place. From under the dash, I can snake some wires up to the blank first, through the hole, solder them to the switch, then pop it into place. We'll see...taking the blank out may be the tough part.
Nice job chemist.........very clean. I think i started something..........it's been a quite a few months now since i mounted mine (down low) ..haven't had a single problem,nor have i changed a battery!
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#9957 / "U4EA"
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Nice job chemist.........very clean. I think i started something..........it's been a quite a few months now since i mounted mine (down low) ..haven't had a single problem,nor have i changed a battery!
Thanks! Your work was certainly the inspiration for me to get this going. It is appreciated!
--Chemist
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Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
Well, I have two garage doors, and sometimes when I am leaving, I need to close both of them from the car. So, I guess I will have to use two switches. Although, I really wanted to use the blank switch location on the dash where the stabilatrac switch is located on the GXP. For now, I just have the opener velcroed to the floor mat right in front of the drivers seat. I just reach down and the button is right there.
Use a 3-position toggle switch, off, A and B. One that will return to center (off) after you press it.
Chemist, I like your mod. I like to position but what about summer heat messing with the tape. I'd be afraid the adhesive would give up and allow the circuit board to rattle around.
__________________ GXP
Ordered 06/24/06, built 01/04/07, delivered 01/20/07.
DEEP, AC, ebony cloth, Monsoon, XM, headliner, power seat adjuster...
Mods: J-type Shorty antenna, Red Pontiac decal on wheel hubs...
Use a 3-position toggle switch, off, A and B. One that will return to center (off) after you press it.
Chemist, I like your mod. I like the position but what about summer heat messing with the tape. I'd be afraid the adhesive would give up and allow the circuit board to rattle around.
Good point. If it starts to rattle, I'll have to figure something else out. A small foam block might suffice, or I might just Velcro(R) it in. Then again, it may not rattle!
--Chemist.
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
Good point. If it starts to rattle, I'll have to figure something else out. A small foam block might suffice, or I might just Velcro(R) it in. Then again, it may not rattle!
--Chemist.
You might try silicone caulk. It's very heat resistant and resilient. It even provides a little vibration damping. And it's soft enough to allow you to remove it if you change your mind.
You might try silicone caulk. It's very heat resistant and resilient. It even provides a little vibration damping. And it's soft enough to allow you to remove it if you change your mind.
That would do the trick for sure. I'm not doing anything, though, until she rattles.
Thanks to all for comments, compliments, and suggestions!!
--Chemist
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
That would do the trick for sure. I'm not doing anything, though, until she rattles.
Thanks to all for comments, compliments, and suggestions!!
--Chemist
Well Chemist, you inspired me too. I did the mod today and mounted the switch exactly where you did also. And it only took two calls to Tweety for advice
I am amazed that I got this done, not because it was hard (it is easy enough for a 10 year old) but because I did it WITHOUT MESSING UP MY CAR! I am the king of accidental damage.
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Ernie Guzman Pontiac in Houston are liars and profiteers!!
Power Train Mods Are Done!!! Dejon CAI, Dejon IC Pipes, EDAL, Magnaflow 3" cat-back
Misc. Mods: WindRestrictor 2, stubby, de-badged, engine cover painted, garage door opener, headlights smoked, egg yolks gone, Garmin Nuvi 660, custom trailer hitch, upolstering
To Do: Calipers painted, Back mud flaps, ECM tune? Boost Controller?
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. But if you go to sell, isn't it going to be useless to the next owner, or have door openers progressed enough to where they can "learn" a new remote??
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Linear Mode
