Chemist Mod: hard-wired garage door remote! - Page 4

AztekzRpurty · 12-08-2006, 02:17 PM

I've been meaning to do this since June when Buggsy posted his pics about it. I keep thinking I'll replace the airbag warning bar with a row of momentary rockers, one for the garage door, one for the door unlock, one to open the trunk, and maybe one 2position switch for a kill switch, just to cause a few seconds grief to any car thieves.

(or 16 year old sons.)

I like the ditching the battery part, but with most of these things lasting 5 years or more, I may skip it.

Nice writeup Chemist! Now we need to get a moderator to add you to the 'how-to' index in the FAQ, if it isn't already there.

mceb · 12-08-2006, 04:28 PM

Great job Chemist

As Aztek mentioned I'll add to Rodeo's "how to" index in FAQ

bradsol · 12-20-2006, 03:20 PM

She's done. I now have a Chemist Garage Door Opener! This is my first official mod, cause the antenna change doesn't count, right?

numbbers · 12-27-2006, 07:02 PM

Well, I finally got "a round tuit" today. I used a hatch opening switch mounted in the hole for the stability control blank.

I just pulled out the switch blank, using a drill bit.

Solcycle · 12-27-2006, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by numbbers

Well, I finally got "a round tuit" today. I used a hatch opening switch mounted in the hole for the stability control blank.
I just pulled out the switch blank, using a drill bit.

I've been too busy trying to make my mileage goals for the year to get to this. I have an extra foglamp switch that I'm going to use.

How exactly did you pull it out? I assume you drilled into it, stopped the drill bit, then just pulled? Or did you have to use something to move the "clips" on the side? The foglamp switch has similar clips.

Based on what you saw on the blank, and assuming the foglamp switch has the same clips, do you think I could just push the foglamp switch into position from the front of the dash (without having to remove the dash)?

Looks great!

numbbers · 12-27-2006, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solcycle

I've been too busy trying to make my mileage goals for the year to get to this. I have an extra foglamp switch that I'm going to use.

How exactly did you pull it out? I assume you drilled into it, stopped the drill bit, then just pulled? Or did you have to use something to move the "clips" on the side? The foglamp switch has similar clips.

Based on what you saw on the blank, and assuming the foglamp switch has the same clips, do you think I could just push the foglamp switch into position from the front of the dash (without having to remove the dash)?

Looks great!

Yep, that's it. I got my slidehammer out, and then drilled into the switch blank. The blank came out with the drill, I didn't need the slide hammer. The new switch will just push right in, but you will need to wire the switch first (A to C), with at least a foot of wire. You will have to fish the wire from underneath the steering wheel area, so you will need to pull both lower plastic panels, and the metal panel under the plastic panel. Two screws, four bolts, and three press in fasteners. I pulled the seat first. Made it very easy. You can have all of the stuff out in 15 to 20 minutes.

Solcycle · 12-27-2006, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by numbbers

Yep, that's it. I got my slidehammer out, and then drilled into the switch blank. The blank came out with the drill, I didn't need the slide hammer. The new switch will just push right in, but you will need to wire the switch first (A to C), with at least a foot of wire. You will have to fish the wire from underneath the steering wheel area, so you will need to pull both lower plastic panels, and the metal panel under the plastic panel. Two screws, four bolts, and three press in fasteners. I pulled the seat first. Made it very easy. You can have all of the stuff out in 15 to 20 minutes.

Yep - that's it! A-C. Now all I have to do is find (or print one) a decal to put over the foglamp icon. I'll do a Google image search for a "Door Icon" or a "Garage Door Icon". Bound to be one out there somewhere...

Your switch with the auto on it looks great the way it is.

Chemist · 12-28-2006, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by numbbers

Well, I finally got "a round tuit" today. I used a hatch opening switch mounted in the hole for the stability control blank.

I just pulled out the switch blank, using a drill bit.
...
...
...

Nice work! Did not have this option in my '06. This really looks good!

--Chemist

Solcycle · 12-28-2006, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chemist

Nice work! Did not have this option in my '06. This really looks good!

--Chemist

Sounds like you need to get an '07 then!

package · 12-28-2006, 08:58 AM

I tried to skim this thread but never noticed if anyone had posted about a mirror replacement. Homelink mirrors work with most any garage opener and you should be able to tap into the current mirror wiring to install. Prices range from $149 on E-bay to about $210 from auto parts type places.

The mirror I would recommend is a 50-GENK40 which has map lights and homelink.
I opted for the 50-GENK60 which has compass, temp, and maplights but that's a bit more.

Anyone considering this should feel free to PM me about it. I had posted install photos on putfile but they don't seem to be there anymore. I'll repost them!

PAO · 12-28-2006, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by package

I tried to skim this thread but never noticed if anyone had posted about a mirror replacement. Homelink mirrors work with most any garage opener and you should be able to tap into the current mirror wiring to install. Prices range from $149 on E-bay to about $210 from auto parts type places.

The mirror I would recommend is a 50-GENK40 which has map lights and homelink.
I opted for the 50-GENK60 which has compass, temp, and maplights but that's a bit more.

Anyone considering this should feel free to PM me about it. I had posted install photos on putfile but they don't seem to be there anymore. I'll repost them!

how different was your install as compared to this one..would like to see pics of the wiring connections from the OEM mirror to your Gentex one

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/s...09&postcount=9

Solcycle · 12-29-2006, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by numbbers

Yep, that's it. I got my slidehammer out, and then drilled into the switch blank. The blank came out with the drill, I didn't need the slide hammer. The new switch will just push right in, but you will need to wire the switch first (A to C), with at least a foot of wire. You will have to fish the wire from underneath the steering wheel area, so you will need to pull both lower plastic panels, and the metal panel under the plastic panel. Two screws, four bolts, and three press in fasteners. I pulled the seat first. Made it very easy. You can have all of the stuff out in 15 to 20 minutes.

I was able to get the blank out just by using a small knife, and prying it gently. It came out immediately and easily. I wired the switch first, soldered wires to A and C. I left about 4 feet of wire to work with. I also soldered wires to the door opener circuit boad and ran those out the side of the opener 'box' and left about 1 foot of wire. (Did a quick test to make sure it worked).

I removed the plastic piece from under the steering wheel (two screws), but did not remove the metal piece. I used a piece of an old fish tape about 2 feet long and fished it thru the blank from the front, down to alongside the steering column. It took about 30 seconds to find the path. Then I attached the 4 foot wire and fished it down. The switch was a little tight going in and it had it's alignment notches in different places than the hole in the dash had. So - I had to 'cut' one of the notches off to make the switch seat correctly. The only issue with that was the switch is 'upside down' compared to the original foglamp switch (see photos) because of where the notches have to be. No big deal though - it sits solidly in the dash and doesn't move around.

Then I velcro'ed the door opener in a spot just to the left of the driver's left leg - just to the left of the hood opener pull. After running the wires together and hiding them and securing them, I connected them, pushed the button and "open sesame"!!

The whole thing took about an hour or so - mostly because I was lazy and taking my time (it's pouring out today, so I decided not to ride - have to fill my time up somehow...)

The two pics below are the original button (upside down) and with a decal over it (garage door icon). I can't decide which way looks best - I'll give it a week or so with the decal, and if I don't like it I can find another one or just remove it.

Switch with no decal:

Switch with decal:

Thanks to all for the ideas!

Chemist · 12-29-2006, 03:38 PM

^ ^ ^ ^
Looks good!

--Chemist

numbbers · 12-29-2006, 06:09 PM

I like the decal, but you could probably just do your own icon with a little paint.

So, the various switches must be keyed different. The rear hatch switch fit right in. I just blacked out the trunk part of the car icon with a sharpie marker. I think the car icon is good enough for identifing the garage door opener switch.

Solcycle · 12-29-2006, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by numbbers

I like the decal, but you could probably just do your own icon with a little paint.

So, the various switches must be keyed different. The rear hatch switch fit right in. I just blacked out the trunk part of the car icon with a sharpie marker. I think the car icon is good enough for identifing the garage door opener switch.

I agree, your icon looks great (car -> garage). I will probably do a different icon that is a gray background, with a white car outline like yours. I'll also cut it out in a circle, so it'll 'fit' the switch better.

The switches are keyed differently, as is the holes in the dash. So - if anybody wants to do this mod, I'd suggest getting the trunk release switch instead of the foglamps switch.