Well, it's done and it works! The guts of my garage door remote now resides in my windshield surround, wired into the mirror circuit, activated by a small Radio Shack switch!
Here are the tools and supplies I used:
Soldering iron, solder, wire, remote for door, wire stripper, screwdriver, and momentary switch from Radio Shack ($2.49).
I first disassembled the remote, removing the clip, then the screw holding the case together.
Here is the back of the circuit board with the locations (on mine) where the wires are soldered. The two to the switch are where the original switch on the board is soldered. Check these with a multimeter and see that the voltage goes from 12 V to essentially 0 when the switch is depressed. The two locations at the bottom are simply the battery terminals. Be sure to note which is "+" and which is "-".
This next picture shows the board taped inside the winshield surround trim piece. To the lower right of the circuit board is the Radio Shack switch which is placed through a hole made in the trim (Dremel rocks!). The switch is soldered to the (now) underside of the circuit board, and leads are soldered to the two battery terminals.
NOTE: Last summer, I extended the wires and moved the circuit board to inside the A-pillar due to what I _think_ were heat issues with my board.
Here is a picture of the wires to the mirror, a small portion of the fabric tape that covers them split and pulled back, and two Posi-Taps installed on the blue w/white stripe (12 volt power) and black (ground) wires. (A BIG thanks to AztekzRPurty for putting me onto posi-taps! ). The red (power) and black (ground) leads from the circuit board are then fastened to these taps.
Finally, here is a pic of the finished install. The button is small and inobtrusive (note my tweety switch by the other visor!). The remote is powered from the car and so I never need worry about replacing the battery (or losing the remote, for that matter. )
IMPORTANT NOTE: THIS MOD WORKED AS SHOWN BECAUSE MY REMOTE IS 12V. Yours may 9V (or 3V or 1.5V), and you will need additional circuitry beyond my simple install.
I hope you have enjoyed our time together. There will be a quiz next week. NOT!
Please let me know if you need more info.
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
My pleasure. To be honest, I "borrowed" the concept from a Mini Cooper forum. They've got that neat toggle switch bank in the lower center dash and someone had put their opener switch there.
Anyway, glad to have been able to add good content to the site. The good Lord knows I've posted enough trivial things.
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
NOTE: Last summer, I extended the wires and moved the circuit board to inside the A-pillar due to what I _think_ were heat issues with my board.
Do you have any pics of the current location of the button.?
__________________
2008 N/A Automatic
Techno Gray Met
All of the Extras for the N/A
#110845
Delivered 07/25/08
Mods
ASAPGrfx Airbag Cover Decal
Stubby Antenna
Norms Transformer Side Skirts
Vans Fender Vent Grills
Color Matched Mud Guards
SmoothLine Top
Well, it's done and it works! The guts of my garage door remote now resides in my windshield surround, wired into the mirror circuit, activated by a small Radio Shack switch!
Here are the tools and supplies I used:
Soldering iron, solder, wire, remote for door, wire stripper, screwdriver, and momentary switch from Radio Shack ($2.49).
I first disassembled the remote, removing the clip, then the screw holding the case together.
Here is the back of the circuit board with the locations (on mine) where the wires are soldered. The two to the switch are where the original switch on the board is soldered. Check these with a multimeter and see that the voltage goes from 12 V to essentially 0 when the switch is depressed. The two locations at the bottom are simply the battery terminals. Be sure to note which is "+" and which is "-".
This next picture shows the board taped inside the winshield surround trim piece. To the lower right of the circuit board is the Radio Shack switch which is placed through a hole made in the trim (Dremel rocks!). The switch is soldered to the (now) underside of the circuit board, and leads are soldered to the two battery terminals.
NOTE: Last summer, I extended the wires and moved the circuit board to inside the A-pillar due to what I _think_ were heat issues with my board.
Here is a picture of the wires to the mirror, a small portion of the fabric tape that covers them split and pulled back, and two Posi-Taps installed on the blue w/white stripe (12 volt power) and black (ground) wires. (A BIG thanks to AztekzRPurty for putting me onto posi-taps! ). The red (power) and black (ground) leads from the circuit board are then fastened to these taps.
Finally, here is a pic of the finished install. The button is small and inobtrusive (note my tweety switch by the other visor!). The remote is powered from the car and so I never need worry about replacing the battery (or losing the remote, for that matter. )
IMPORTANT NOTE: THIS MOD WORKED AS SHOWN BECAUSE MY REMOTE IS 12V. Yours may 9V (or 3V or 1.5V), and you will need additional circuitry beyond my simple install.
I hope you have enjoyed our time together. There will be a quiz next week. NOT!
Please let me know if you need more info.
Love this mod.................no more lost remote easy install and convenient
I would add one note though, you will need to add two more tools to the list needed, a drill and bit (I used a 1/4 inch I think) to drill the hole in the panel for the new "button" to pass through.
Maybe that is the answer to the quiz.................I hope I passed
NOTE: Last summer, I extended the wires and moved the circuit board to inside the A-pillar due to what I _think_ were heat issues with my board.
Do you have any pics of the current location of the button.?
The button is in the same place. I relocated the circuit board to the A-pillar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier GXP
Love this mod.................no more lost remote easy install and convenient
I would add one note though, you will need to add two more tools to the list needed, a drill and bit (I used a 1/4 inch I think) to drill the hole in the panel for the new "button" to pass through.
Maybe that is the answer to the quiz.................I hope I passed
You are correct on my omission of a tool. Truth be told, I used a Dremel to make the hole, but your answer of "drill and bit" will earn you full credit.
Makes me happy to see the old thread get some time again.
__________________
Envious, ebony leather, loaded, DDM Stage II S/C, headers/cat/exhaust, 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
__________________
2008 N/A Automatic
Techno Gray Met
All of the Extras for the N/A
#110845
Delivered 07/25/08
Mods
ASAPGrfx Airbag Cover Decal
Stubby Antenna
Norms Transformer Side Skirts
Vans Fender Vent Grills
Color Matched Mud Guards
SmoothLine Top
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