This thread is to post my "How to" instructions for installing the door lock/unlock buttons. It is based on Tweetys BCM work , but is focused on installing two buttons, one in each window pillar. it provides all the necessary information to connect the buttons from anywhere if you want to do the leg work for installing the buttons themselves in a new location.
It also provides proof that the "micro .64 connectors" are optional with a little ingenuity...
If you want higher quality pictures, I can email them on request. These have been "downsized" for posting.
I have asked PAO to host the instructions as I cannot quite do that yet...Paul?
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Ohio Plate (rear only): BOBS SLY
Sly/Ebony -- 107796
- Everything except OnStar Purchase date: 28 Jan 06
- Currently 18766 Miles - 10 Oct 08
Mods - Painted rotors & calipers, whip antenna, Custom Windrestrictor w/switch, GM CAI, floormats, door lock/unlock buttons, mud flaps, GXP door sills. New differential at 10882 miles.
This thread is to post my "How to" instructions for installing the door lock/unlock buttons. It is based on Tweetys BCM work , but is focused on installing two buttons, one in each window pillar. it provides all the necessary information to connect the buttons from anywhere if you want to do the leg work for installing the buttons themselves in a new location.
It also provides proof that the "micro .64 connectors" are optional with a little ingenuity...
If you want higher quality pictures, I can email them on request. These have been "downsized" for posting.
I have asked PAO to host the instructions as I cannot quite do that yet...Paul?
instructions as provided to me by Bob....enjoy all
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This thread is to post my "How to" instructions for installing the door lock/unlock buttons. It is based on Tweetys BCM work , but is focused on installing two buttons, one in each window pillar. it provides all the necessary information to connect the buttons from anywhere if you want to do the leg work for installing the buttons themselves in a new location.
It also provides proof that the "micro .64 connectors" are optional with a little ingenuity...
If you want higher quality pictures, I can email them on request. These have been "downsized" for posting.
I have asked PAO to host the instructions as I cannot quite do that yet...Paul?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PAO
instructions as provided to my by Bob....enjoy all
Each of you is a fine fellow, scholars and a gentlemen both!
I will run this by my accountant (i.e., my wife) and then give it a go!
Thanks.
--Chemist
__________________ "Muirne" --- Envious, ebony leather, LSD/ABS/AC/Monsoon w/6CD changer, mats, splash guards, DDM Stage II S/C, DDM stainless headers/cat/exhaust, DDM 4-piston brakes/slotted rotors, Probeam, Backbone, black "stubby" antenna, Lil' Chromies, K-sphere pedals, Kazera KZ-L wheels, the TWEETY door unlock/lock button, Garmin nuvi 750 GPS, High Note horn, Brushed Al door sills, etched/lighted WindRestrictor, white LED map/footwell lights, 3rd brake light pulser. --- She moves!
NASSOA Founding Member
Very well done man, very well done indeed.
While kicking over some rocks to get the terminations is worth a solid and clean fit, you have proved that there is an alternative.
It's amazing what you can miss in explaining steps until someone else tries to follow behind you.
Thanks again for a very well planned and laid out presentation.
To this moment I still can't seem to get a clear close up shot of the terminations for show and tell. Sorry.
So tell me something. What was the feeling when you heard the actuators popping for the first time??? Was it like, "damn this actually works"? Or what?!
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I visit here less and less nowadays. Leave a PM if you want but it may be days before I return to it.
Very well done man, very well done indeed.
While kicking over some rocks to get the terminations is worth a solid and clean fit, you have proved that there is an alternative.
It's amazing what you can miss in explaining steps until someone else tries to follow behind you.
Thanks again for a very well planned and laid out presentation.
To this moment I still can't seem to get a clear close up shot of the terminations for show and tell. Sorry.
So tell me something. What was the feeling when you heard the actuators popping for the first time??? Was it like, "damn this actually works"? Or what?!
Well, the first time I pushed the buttons I got "silence"....
Then after I "fixed" it, it was a rush of "Whooo Hoooo" . Thanks again for all the help....wouldn't have been possible otherwise....
__________________
Ohio Plate (rear only): BOBS SLY
Sly/Ebony -- 107796
- Everything except OnStar Purchase date: 28 Jan 06
- Currently 18766 Miles - 10 Oct 08
Mods - Painted rotors & calipers, whip antenna, Custom Windrestrictor w/switch, GM CAI, floormats, door lock/unlock buttons, mud flaps, GXP door sills. New differential at 10882 miles.
It's just too bad that a 25 cent connector has to cost $63 and the more expensive to make switch is only $27. Go figure. But I guess if the government can pay thousands for parts that cost pennies why not GM. Also, is there any way to get around needing the connector for the switch, i.e. soldering the wires directly to the switch pins and using heat shrink for insulation? Just a thought. Maybe GM will get a clue and install a lock switch in late 2007 or 2008.....Naaaahhhhh!
It's just too bad that a 25 cent connector has to cost $63 and the more expensive to make switch is only $27. Go figure. But I guess if the government can pay thousands for parts that cost pennies why not GM. Also, is there any way to get around needing the connector for the switch, i.e. soldering the wires directly to the switch pins and using heat shrink for insulation? Just a thought. Maybe GM will get a clue and install a lock switch in late 2007 or 2008.....Naaaahhhhh!
I was amazed at what I got for $63....
Seems to me that the connector could be bypassed quite easily... all you'd need is a couple more of those micro .64 connectors (or something similar) -- I bet they would slide on... Or you could modify the button -- cut part of the back off and then solder the connection in place..(maybe)
I may try it out and see --
__________________
Ohio Plate (rear only): BOBS SLY
Sly/Ebony -- 107796
- Everything except OnStar Purchase date: 28 Jan 06
- Currently 18766 Miles - 10 Oct 08
Mods - Painted rotors & calipers, whip antenna, Custom Windrestrictor w/switch, GM CAI, floormats, door lock/unlock buttons, mud flaps, GXP door sills. New differential at 10882 miles.
BTW, should anyone want to add to the index of "how to" and not get a response from me (since I'm travelling indefinately) - any mod can update the list.
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All of the animals except for man know that the principle business of life is to enjoy it.-- Samuel Butler
You can find me at the lake -- RODEOSOLSTICE @ YAHOO.COM
I'm still trying to get an answer to the following.
If you leave your top and windows down, get out of the car and arm the alarm, then reach in without opening the door and hit the new unlock button, what happens?
If it opens the locks and turns off the alarm, I think I might see why GM left them off the car. If they put them in stock, someone could slit the top, reach in with a stick and hit the unlock button, then have unfettered access to the inside of your car.
If the button isn't active, or the alarm sounds, I have no idea why they left them off the car.
, but is focused on installing two buttons, one in each window pillar. it provides all the necessary information to connect the buttons from anywhere if you want to do the leg work for installing the buttons themselves in a new location.
