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Old 03-29-2011, 09:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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heater/AC blower stopped working

so about a week ago my heater/AC blower stopped working and of course it was on a day it was about 20 degrees out i was like WTF over. well i went and got a used blower motor thinking it would be that as with this issues ive had with other cars it was the blower. a new one cost like $160 so i got a used one for 70. i took the glove box off and the panel under the passenger side dash and pulled out the blower and plugged on the new one and nothing. i then jumped the old one on a battery and it worked like a charm so i checked the resistor all looked fine so i checked the connection and well after 15 min of fighting with it to get it apart i discovered why. the connections melted. so basically 1 blower harness $49 (only from gm) and 1 resistor from GM for $38 and she runs like new. here are the pics of it.








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Old 04-02-2011, 08:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You usually get this from a bad or loose connection. Loose connections with high current get hot. Good find!
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm running into the same issue only my car is no longer under warranty and would like to do it myself if its not hard. I have a dealer quoting me $375 to replace the Resistor and Connectors/Harness.

I also have another person telling me since the resistor is shot that it would be a good idea to replace the blower motor as well because that indicates the blower motor is over heating. Thoughts?

Also you would by chance have the part numbers for the connectors/harness and the resistor would you?

Thanks in advance...
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by buddylee7 View Post
I'm running into the same issue only my car is no longer under warranty and would like to do it myself if its not hard. I have a dealer quoting me $375 to replace the Resistor and Connectors/Harness.

I also have another person telling me since the resistor is shot that it would be a good idea to replace the blower motor as well because that indicates the blower motor is over heating. Thoughts?

Also you would by chance have the part numbers for the connectors/harness and the resistor would you?

Thanks in advance...
You only need to replace the resistor (presumably) because the connector is burnt, not the resistor itself. So no need to replace the motor.

Don't know the resistor part# but the harness number is visible in the photo above... 25797383
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You only need to replace the resistor (presumably) because the connector is burnt, not the resistor itself. So no need to replace the motor.

Don't know the resistor part# but the harness number is visible in the photo above... 25797383
Thanks for the response...appears I cannot find the part number: 25797383 anywhere. I'm trying to wheel and deal with my current dealer and see if they can knock the price down. I'm currently wondering if I can do this myself if I can find the parts....how hard would it be...although I don't even know where the blower motor is located. I'm assuming under the dash on the passenger side.
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by buddylee7 View Post
Thanks for the response...appears I cannot find the part number: 25797383 anywhere. I'm trying to wheel and deal with my current dealer and see if they can knock the price down. I'm currently wondering if I can do this myself if I can find the parts....how hard would it be...although I don't even know where the blower motor is located. I'm assuming under the dash on the passenger side.
It's an easy job, however it is in a bit of a cramped location. Yes, it is at the top of the passengar footwell and there is a small cover that needs to be removed.

The hardest part for me was to get the connect apart from the resistor as it had melted and fused together with the resistor body.

I did not replace the harness, just the connector as I found the same connector from a junk bin at a GM dealer. I had cut the connector off anyway because I could not get the connector and resistor apart until I had them out of the car.

The connector that I found had long leads still attached which allowed me to splice it back to the cut off leads giving me a longer harness so there shold be no repeat of the problem (I don't know if you bought a new harnes from the dealer if it has been made longer to prevent the original problem).
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Old 08-23-2011, 11:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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They don't always melt down. Wife got in the car to go to work, no A/C. Pulled the cover, pulled the resister, upplugged cleaned contacts, plug back in and off to work she went with A/C.
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Old 08-27-2011, 01:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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mine reccently did this last week, it was a bad fan & coil, cost $600 to be repaired
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Part Number is changed, but still available new P/N 25949869
available here GM Factory Replacement Parts 25797383 - HARNESS | SDParts - 1-800-456-0211 and herehttp://www.gmpartseast.com
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Good information. Thanks for letting the forum know about this. Just another mass-production-based, one-will-slip-through type of problem....I hope.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Good information. Thanks for letting the forum know about this. Just another mass-production-based, one-will-slip-through type of problem....I hope.
I hope, but I just read this again and I assume my hunt is still not over, I ordered the harness but missed the wording that the resistor was a separate part, well back to the web.

EDITED TO ADD Resistor Information - gmparteast has the resistor. They do not give the total part number, but what they do give is **397098 RESISTOR BLO MOT

They still show the old part number for the harness, but they do have it, if you use the new number above.
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Last edited by JBD; 09-11-2011 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Just a comment. I'm a civil engineer, not electrical, so I was wondering if that is a "heat fuse" soldered on the left end of what I take to be the resistor...that green thing? Did it blow, or was it the melting of the connection itself that stopped the motor?
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Oh yeah, Steel/Sand interior. Added K&N filter. Vent tube r/r @ 2850 mi. WindRestrictor added 12/12/06. Added high-tone horn. Painted engine cover. ECM retune 6/15/10. Added Vandesign B/U lite covers 12/07. Re-replaced seal due to recall 27570 mi. DDMProBeam added 7/2/08. Envious Emblem overlays. Kappasphere rear deck rack. DDM tunnel plate added 4/22/09. Solo Exhaust system, lit sills and HID conversion 5/1/10.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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it melted the connector due to a poor connection
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2007 SOL base model, fully loaded agressive with black leather interior.
MOD'S to date
.ddmworks stage 2
.lil chromies
.LED tail light spirder bulbs
.kappaspear wind screen
.magnaflow cat back
.msd dash hawk
.ddmworks back bone
.powder polished valve cover
.ddmworks back bone
.RK-Sport ram air hood
.Norms T-Skirts
.GXP Front bumper W/norms splitte
.RK-Sport Spoiler
.Sniper NOS kit
.Custom Polished Stainless brake/coolant/battery cover
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Replaced mine yesterday - works fine now. Same connector burn although not as bad as the pictures. Pretty easy fix - no reason to have the dealer do this unless you just cannot turn a screwdriver or use a wrench. I am not mechanic, it took about 30-45 minutes. Bought resistor and harness. My connector was not repairable.

And yes the "green thing" is the resistor.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
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So, JBD, could you cut off the melted connector on the harness and solder those wires directly to the resistor connector tabs? Would you be able to replace it with the wires attached? Might be an alternative to buying new parts for those with solder skills.
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