Finally got my dumb-axe back into this last night. Wanted to test to see if I had voltage going to relay #30 so I popped it out (this is under the passenger's side floor board) and tried to push some pieces of wire in to make contact so I could test with my little meter. Pieces of paperclip weren't thick enough to make contact so I put the relay back in.
As I was pushing the relay back in, I felt a small pulse of air hit my right ear from the dash vent and then it stopped! If a chip is done it's usually done so the "logic" shouldn't have sent the signal to the relay to close. If a chip is "close to being done" it usually acts up when it's warm, not cold. I call BS on the logic, has to be a contact problem.
I seat and re-seat the relay, I seat and reseat the fuses - NOTHING!
Tonight I dig deeper and start to pull the whole fuse panel. (It's not that bad - you need a screwdriver to pop the "levers" on the two connections and a 7mm socket to pull the main center connector. After that, there are 3 - 7mm screws holding the panel in place.)
I see nothing as I remove the fuse panel and connectors, so I drop the panel and there is a wire dress on the back - four "hook clips" popped with a screwdriver and then there is another 7mm screw in the back of the panel that holds the supply wiring onto it.
And here I find a little bit - o - brown on the main power supply to relay "30".
I also notice some hand lettering on the connector which is unusual (from my experience) on a normal production component. Methinks this may have been reworked at the plant or the dealer by the supplier.
So the position in play is a bit smoked. I was able to push and move the contact surface and clean it to the point that I now have a blower, but it's not a permanent solution. I show the following picture of what is called the "TPA" (terminal position assurance) lock that slides through the connector shell to hold the terminals in place. (They typically push and "snap" into place, but then the TPA is used to assure they can't be pushed out.) In my case, I removed the TPA but was unable to push the latch finger back and pull the female terminal out because, well basically it was melted to crap.
I know the "box" type female terminals are pretty standard - made by tyco and several other suppliers and I can get my hands on one of those. The connector "shell" is engraved with "Delphi" but I didn't see any specific part number on it. (It's likely deeper inside on a surface you can't see after the wires and terminals are inserted.)
If I can't get a number for the shell (and even if I do I may not be able to get one) I'm goinf to end up buying the whole damned harness because I guarantee you that GM won't just sell the shell. I can diagram the wires required and replace the smoked terminal but I see several hundred dollars in a wire harness and routing the whole damned thing as opposed to popping out a dozen or so terminals, rewiring one, and putting it back together.