Parts and tools required.
* Parts from the 2007 Saturn Ion Coupe/Sedan. (sorry to those that have found Cobalt bits-please return them if possible)
Total cost for both parts shown is just under $100 bucks. Switch was 27-something and the harness was 50-something. I will update later when I have the receipts in front of me.

Harness #22690923
Button #22664401
Along with the parts listed you will also need to locate by any means at least (1)-female socket, #15359541, Micro-64. This socket is NOT sold at the counter and will have to be acquired by sucking up or pleading with the shop foreman.
In the event that this will happen and the conversation turns to why you need it, do NOT be turned away by comments that it cannot be done and warranty BS. The good people at Delphi have helped me enough and some very switched on GM people have confirmed that the BCM would work and when I plugged it in-it did.

*(if you want a button on each door then you will need two of everything)

The functionality of the button is as follows:
Lock/unlock by pressing it as designed.
Lock will NOT work if door is opened and key is in ignition.
Lock will lock when pressed and Security icon on dash will come on steady for 30 seconds and then flash as designed. Upon opening of the door when flashing will sound alarm. Key in ignition or key fob will cancel alarm.






Poor picture of socket on day planner.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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Pin.
Locate the top left of the BCM. This is where Coupler #1 is.
Unlock the cam holding the coupler in place.
Note that the lights in the car will now go off as most interior items were plugged into the coupler.
*your stereo clock and channels will NOT be affected*
Turn coupler to match that in the picture.
Locate the bottom row of pins in the coupler.
Locate now from right to left the empty holes in your coupler to that in the picture. You should see (7) empty holes in your coupler.
* Note that you will be placing your pin/wire into Pin #7 from the other side of the coupler.

Take the new wire harness and button in your hands and dry fit it into the button.
Notice on the button that there are 4 numbers molded into it.
Write down and tape off the #1 and #2 positions on the wires as they line up with the markings on the button.
#1 position and wire will be going to the BCM.
#2 position and wire will be the ground.
#3&4 are not used.
There is no backlighting in this button.
Tape off and secure the remaining 2 wires.

Crimp #1 wire into Micro-64 female socket. Be certain that the tabs are smoothed down as the socket will not fit if they are up. Hopefully you sucked up and got a few more than needed in case you damage the one needed.
Firmly press socket into coupler. A click will be heard and felt to let you know that it is in all the way.
Roll coupler over again as in the picture and verify that you see the socket. You should if you felt and heard a click.
You may notice that the hole has some plastic in it. Clean it out with a needle or pin.

DO NOT SECURE COUPLER TO BCM UNLESS THE GROUND WIRE HAS BEEN SECURED!!!

You may connect the ground wire to any metal surface that is directly to the frame of the car or use an existing location as I am doing in the following pictures.
At this time you can then connect the coupler and 'test' the button.

Routing of the wires will be up to you and your specific installation. I used the main harness to follow its path and other harnesses when possible. For me the path was up and behind the glove box (pull tabs on side to rotate out of dash), and down the center console and under the carpet.
If you are putting the buttons in the doors then you will likely follow the same path as the harness that is already in the door. Secure by zip tie or tape along the way.

* If you will be doing 2 buttons-2 harnesses-2 sockets, you will need to place one wire to the Pin #6 and the other to the Pin #7 location. Grounding the wires remain the same.

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These are pictures or the aftermath of my installation into the tunnel cover.
I put the button here for a specific reason. Well, at least 2 reasons.
1. I wanted to have all the controls in the center for both people to use.
2. I didn't want anyone to simply reach in and hit the button and get into the car.

WARNING: Putting the button in the center may be tighter in some cars than others. The door is the preferred location. Some grinding of the tunnel floor was required in my installation in order to make room for the button. There was about 1/8" interference.

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Note the additional wires that came with the harness that isn't used but is folded away and taped up.



Grounding location under tunnel cover. This is where I tapped in to.





Here are some of the final shots.

Notice the ground location in the tunnel area. This is where I tied in to for the ground. Lucky spot.
In one picture you can see that I allowed myself some extra wire so that I can pull the cover and still get to the buttons. The other button for those just joining us is for the power antenna.
Note that in some of the cars you may find that this location isn't suitable for you. I had an interference of about 1/8" where the button hit the tunnel floor. I shimmed up the trim and all is well but it is tight.
Also, the wiring for the button comes out forward which is cool.



***I will be editing the tutorial on the fly as I remember more details but this is about it.***

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I visit here less and less nowadays. Leave a PM if you want but it may be days before I return to it.

Put file shows bad link, no pictures.

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06 SLY, Sand&Steel, Clear Bra, CAI, TRI-Y long tube headers, high flow CAT, Magnaflow cat back dual exhaust, ECM tune, painted calipers w/decals, large bore throttle body

Everything looks good to me!

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#118042 11/18/06 GXP Mean Darkside loaded wo On-Star
MODS: ED IC Pipes, Dejon IC, Magnaflow Catback

#1922 12/03/05
Mysterious Steel/Sand w/ 6-Disc Monsoon
Conv., Pwr & Premium Pkgs A/C LSD Carpet Mats
MODS: GM CAI & CATBAck
Dover DE

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Pontiac builds excitement...
Saturn has rethought it's image...
The time has come for the enthusiasts...
NASSOA
Founding Member - Recording Secretary - Northeast
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Try using www.imageshack.us for hosting, much better then putfile.

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1993 talon tsi awd - stock on the outside, modded on the inside
2007 solstice gxp - Solo Performance 3" mach exhaust + hiflow cat - dyno sheet

I see 12 pictures just fine.

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I visit here less and less nowadays. Leave a PM if you want but it may be days before I return to it.

Shows bad link messages for me.

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.................................................. ...."Drive it like you stole it"


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The time has come for the enthusiasts...
website link - NASSOA - Officially recognized by GM
Founding Member #69
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So what could be the hang up? I have used this site for all my pics and nothing went bad before. And why would I still see them and someone else but a few of you don't?
They aren't on my hard drive since I pulled them directly to the site from my camera?
Any thoughts on why some of you see them and some don't?

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I visit here less and less nowadays. Leave a PM if you want but it may be days before I return to it.

The pics are in your Cache. PutFile will let you hotlink it once every couple minutes, but after that it blocks it for each new suspected hotlink. So that's why you are able to see it, but others aren't.

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Serene will be a color! Even if only on one car.

The putfiile bad link messges say that the links are to files that are too large for hotlinks. If you re-save the files in a smaller form factor, it will probably work.

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Deep, steel/sand, loaded except standard radio and no smoker's; #08974
Mods: Kappasphere CAI, Clear Image Shorty Header, second horn, visor decals, mudflaps, tonneau cover, brake light flasher, trailer hitch, 'lil Chromies, trunk monkey

I am putting the images up to Flicker and will swap them out in a little bit.

SORRY ABOUT THE PICTURES....STILL WORKING ON THIS.

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Ok Tweety,
Here are my questions based on your setup.

1. Where is the BCM located. I'd like to know where in the car exactly and which of the two connectors in the picture is connected to the BCM?

2. Did you take any pictures of the micro .64 connectors and how you attached them to the BCM?

I plan on doing one for each door. I'll send you my pictures and "what happened to me" when I get done. Thanks
Bob

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Ohio Plate (rear only): BOBS SLY
Sly/Ebony -- 107796
- Everything except OnStar Purchase date: 28 Jan 06
- Currently 18766 Miles - 10 Oct 08
Mods - Painted rotors & calipers, whip antenna, Custom Windrestrictor w/switch, GM CAI, floormats, door lock/unlock buttons, mud flaps, GXP door sills. New differential at 10882 miles.