Location: The avatar shows my motivation to work .... Work takes place in Houston, Republic of Texas .... Motivation takes place in CA, NV, UT, CO and similar locations.
TOO sweet, Steve! That GXP is looking GOOD! Thanks for sharing.
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Her name is MariSOL
In Spanish that means The Sea and The Sun.
VIN 6Y101319, delivered 10/15/05. 83,519 miles.
How does the inside cover come off?? Do you just pop the pins off or what?? Are they reusable?? Please explain
They just pull right off and are reusable ... that material really "soaked up" the paint, but the G2 hardened up nicely. I am interested in some stickers still and the G2 paint gave me a good base to apply some ... if anyone designs them.
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2007 Aggressive GXP (Manual) loaded minus On* and Smoker's Pkg (Born 11/10/2006 and picked up on 11/22/2006) SOLD 10/17/2008
They just pull right off and are reusable ... that material really "soaked up" the paint, but the G2 hardened up nicely. I am interested in some stickers still and the G2 paint gave me a good base to apply some ... if anyone designs them.
I figured it would....Hmm...I'm thinking about painting the whole thing red to match my engine cover.
Good little guinea pig MSG_Kee
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2003 Dodge Ram 4x4 QC/SB - w/ a 4-horse Bison trailer in tow
I also would like to do an applied bit to the insulation, if it comes around.
I bought it to paint my calipers and had some left, so I used the extra amount on my hood insulation. It cost me about $38 and it comes with a bottle of "Paint Reactor" and the paint hardens within 4 hours ... only drawback is that you cannot save any leftover paint. People say that the G2 paint is better that the stuff at Autozone ($15), but I am not sure if it is worth the extra $23 bucks. It might be an "overkill" to buy the G2 just for the hood ... unless you have other items to paid. IMO
LOL...my whole pad under my car is primered right now. Need a couple more cans though. That stuff sucks it right up. I've already used 4 cans and it's still not good. I'm buying another 4 just to make sure it's perfect. Then it's turning red just like my engine cover. And if I happen to have any left over I may be redoing me engine cover red and black rather than just red. We'll see.
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2003 Dodge Ram 4x4 QC/SB - w/ a 4-horse Bison trailer in tow
Man that engine bay looks great MSG_McKee. Totally awesome is all I can say. I love the hoses, can you give details as to where you got them, size, make, cost, etc.? I thought I was done with mods this season and then you went ahead and did this.
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Vin# 110166
DOD: 2/18/06
Aggressive, Ebony leather interior, everything except OnStar.
Hahn Stage III, powder coated pipes/valve cover, XPEL clear bra, lil chromies, painted calipers, caliper decals, centerpiece wheel decals, visor decals, 6" stubbie antenea, 20% tints, painted grills black, painted WS frame & behind the seats Aggressive, painted engine cover Aggressive, WOLO Bad Boy air horn, Solo SQR-2 dual tip center exhaust, Motegi DV5 wheels, Riken Raptor tires, Eibach springs.
MSG_McKee: Your doing a wonderful job, a fantastic job- in detailing and personalizing your SOL.
But being a real 'old techie'-and stickler for detail (as I see you also are) may I respectfully make a suggestion for your Wheels/rotors 'long term welfare'.
Take a look at your pics: rotor before, rotor after. even where you painted the rotor - and you see the rust where the rotor mates to the wheel.
On your 'caliper before- you also see the axle hub -with the 5 studs- all rusty. Clean off the rust with a wire brush, and paint that axle mounting surface- where it mates the the inside of the rotors.
If you haven't already, paint the entire rotor mounting faces - inside and out- the areas that fits over the studs, and mates with the axle hub, and the front rotor face where it mates to the rear surface of the wheel.
Then before you mount your rotor, and your wheel-silver paint the mating surface of the wheel (high temp silver of course). Use a schmear of std (vs copper based) anti seize on the axle hub/rotor and the rotor/ painted area of the wheels. NOT THE STUDS!
Now when your remove your wheels- you will cut that rust down to a bare minimum. I find on my Concours Jags, that I can keep the rust away for about a year.
Best wishes and thanks for your service to our country!! Sherman
PS:I served in SE Asia, and both my parents were DOD USAF career civilians, may they rest in peace). In fact my father was in the USArmy AIr Corp before that in the 1920's.
Many stories.
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Sherman D Taffel, Columbia MD & Goldvein, VA
SLY,Tan Roof,Ebony leather,AUTO,All packages,A/C,6CD-MP3,Monsoon,XM,Sport Pedals,Mats,Chrome Wheels, Sly 'splashguards',Bra,GM tonneau Vin 111997 Born 9/26/06; Delivery 1/25/2007;[/color]
#18 in Collection,#18 in Hebrew="Chai"(Love, Life).
Friends: TR4, 4 Jags, 5 Jensens, 2 Fieros, 62 Skylark Alum V-8, 63 Riviera, 61 Dodge Lancer Wagon,63 Dodge Dart Vert, 89 Daytona Turbo,03 HEMI RAM Laramie
Avatar=1st gas@1940's Goldvein,VA General Store
Man that engine bay looks great MSG_McKee. Totally awesome is all I can say. I love the hoses, can you give details as to where you got them, size, make, cost, etc.? I thought I was done with mods this season and then you went ahead and did this.
Thanks to everyone for the replies and I bought the red braided high temp (~450 degrees) hose at Autozone. It comes with about 5-6 different sizes and I only used about 1/3 of the hose enclosed in the bag. The cost was $39.99, but they gave me $4 off (10% military discount), so the job was pretty low ($36) cost. I only did the vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, and hot side IC hose. I may see if there is a way to cover the electrical wiring, but I wanted to get the easy stuff done first. The longest part is heat shrinking the ends the radiator clamps were a little tight. BTW, make sure to have a rubber cap handy when you pop the hose that connects to the radiator. Total time for this mod ~1 hr ... add time to go to Lowes and buy a cheap heat gun and it took about 1.5 hours. I keep saying the ECU Tune (when avail) is my only mod left, but I keep finding new stuff.
Steve
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2007 Aggressive GXP (Manual) loaded minus On* and Smoker's Pkg (Born 11/10/2006 and picked up on 11/22/2006) SOLD 10/17/2008
Thanks to everyone for the replies and I bought the red braided high temp (~450 degrees) hose at Autozone. It comes with about 5-6 different sizes and I only used about 1/3 of the hose enclosed in the bag. The cost was $39.99, but they gave me $4 off (10% military discount), so the job was pretty low cost. I only did the vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, and hot side IC hose. I may see if there is a way to cover the electrical wiring, but I wanted to get the easy stuff done first. The longest part is heat shrinking the ends the radiator clamps were a little tight. BTW, make sure to have a rubber cap handy when you pop the hose that connects to the radiator. Total time for this mod ~1 hr ... add time to go to Lowes and buy a cheap heat gun and it took about 1.5 hours. I keep saying the ECU Tune (when avail) is my only mod left, but I keep finding new stuff.
Steve
Thanks for the info. and tips Steve, much appreciated. I would like to do this soon. Also thanks for the great service you are doing for us. I was in the army 1974 - 1977 2nd Armored Division. Vietnam was at it's last stages so I didn't go.
Ivan
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Vin# 110166
DOD: 2/18/06
Aggressive, Ebony leather interior, everything except OnStar.
Hahn Stage III, powder coated pipes/valve cover, XPEL clear bra, lil chromies, painted calipers, caliper decals, centerpiece wheel decals, visor decals, 6" stubbie antenea, 20% tints, painted grills black, painted WS frame & behind the seats Aggressive, painted engine cover Aggressive, WOLO Bad Boy air horn, Solo SQR-2 dual tip center exhaust, Motegi DV5 wheels, Riken Raptor tires, Eibach springs.
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It might be an "overkill" to buy the G2 just for the hood ... unless you have other items to paid. IMO 
I love the hoses, can you give details as to where you got them, size, make, cost, etc.? I thought I was done with mods this season and then you went ahead and did this. 
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