I had a technician out here to install a LoJack anyway, so as long as he was here I thought perhaps we could do this as well. It turned out to be really easy. The sleeve covering the wires actually just slides right up with a little tug, and it was just really simple to tap onto the wires needed to run the thing.
Here are some pics:
Before:
I didn't get a shot before he cut the wire, but you can see in these pictures that the individual wires have been covered with electrician's tape:
In this shot you can see the whole wire package taped back together again:
The only problem with this arrangement, of course, is that the radar detector is "unswitched" -- it has to be manually turned on and off, rather than having it run off the ignition switch. While the latter would be preferable, there just aren't any switched wires in that package up there to key off of (which we all know from previous threads).
It's a little bit worrisome because I could see how it could get left on, running down the battery, or left off, allowing me to get a ticket when I think I'm protected. But I can live with it, and it sure beats having an ugly wire lying around or awkwardly installed along an edge somewhere.
Obviously a full-blown install through the dashboard and windshield trim, running off switched electrical, would be best, but this was a bargain approach.
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You could also add another electronic gadget (was going to say "gizmo" but figured I would catch grief in reference to the "one who should remain unnamed" ) to your car...there is a product out there that will cut the power so that your battery will not drain below a certain level so that you don't end up with a dead battery. I think the original intent was for those that leave their lights on, but should work for you too...not sure what it was called but Google can be your friend.
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You could also add another electronic gadget (was going to say "gizmo" but figured I would catch grief in reference to the "one who should remain unnamed" ) to your car...there is a product out there that will cut the power so that your battery will not drain below a certain level so that you don't end up with a dead battery. I think the original intent was for those that leave their lights on, but should work for you too...not sure what it was called but Google can be your friend.
I don't think you have to Google it.
I believe, The Sols already have a battery saver built in!!!!!
fred
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Thanks for posting. I was thinking along the same lines...great photos and I look forward to making the mod.
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Darn, too bad it wasn't an ignition switch on that would be a perfect install. I noticed you have the onstar button which reminded me that for some reason my car had the onstar paper on the driver's side door when it arrived, but I didn't order onstar and I don't have the button either.
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I'm not sure that it would actually drain the battery if I just left it running all the time. In my garage it's just sitting running a little LED on the front display.
In fact, the car does this as well. When you lock the door it lights up the security lock indicator on the dashboard. I can't imagine that the radar detector (when silent) is drawing any more power than that.
This may help, the Cobra XRS 9730 has a feature called Smart Power. It monitors engine rpm and shuts off 30 minutes after the engine turns off. A separate feature is that it doesn't alarm if you are not moving or are moving at a slow speed.
I have to take back what I posted above -- the security light on the DIC actually goes out after a few minutes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack B
Pangloss:
What color wires were tapped?
Unfortunately all I know is what's in the picture, because I didn't write down which wires he tapped. But I believe that information is already listed in one of the other threads on this subject.
I *think* it's blue for power and black for ground. The picture seems to support this. But you should check it with a meter first to be sure.
Incidentally, we accidentally tripped the OnStar emergency feature while testing the wires, and an operator actually came on the phone. I told him it wasn't an emergency and we were just working on the electrical system and apologized, and he said it happens all the time.
I checked, the three wires that go into a plug. The release for the plug is on the front side. Once you release the plug it is easy to splice the wires. The two wires required are the outside wires. My detector has a pair of #26 or #28 gauge conductors. They are easy to melt with a normal soldering gun, it is best to use a cold solder technique.