This thread is intended as a summary and visual depiction of the Exhaust Depot Anti-Lag Mod ("EDAL"), also known as the "Charge Air Bypass (Solenoid) Mod", brought to us originally by Hector at Exhaust Depot (Thanks Hector!). I have some pictures of my own that I'm linking below (in the next post), and I'm also going to link in some of the previous descriptions and thread discussions, and see if we can get a moderator to pin this thread to the top of this board.
Note: My pics and MTS's pics are (theoretically) perma-hosted, but some of the images in some of the thread discussions are located on Putfile, which generally de-links images after a few months. If you find that the images are no longer available, ask around on the board; someone may have copies or can take new pictures for you. Also Brentil has added thumbnails to copies of the images that have been placed on THIS web site, and those thumbnails may be found here.
SUMMARY
The basic idea of this mod is that normally the ECU holds back the turbo until a certain amount of pressure has been relieved via the Charge Air Bypass Valve (Solenoid) (which relieves vacuum pressure from the turbine after the throttle is released). This mod is designed to stop that behavior, resulting in more rapid turbo response (less turbo lag).
From a practical perspective it's about getting the turbo to respond at a lower throttle setting. Put another way, the turbo may kick in half way down the pedal travel instead of 3/4th of the way down, depending on circumstances. So now you can use the turbo in situations where it might not have kicked in before.
Two notes:
1. THIS MOD IS EXTREMELY QUICK. It will take you far longer to read this thread and all the instructions and digest the pictures than it will actually take you to do the mod. It's a five-minute job. Literally.
2. THIS MOD IS REVERSIBLE. Just remove the severed length of rubber tubing with the T-connector embedded in it (see instructions), then replace it with a new (short) length of rubber tubing, available from any auto supply store. You'll also need to reconnect the incoming tube to the original position in place of the stopper. (See post #2 and images below for a better idea of what this all means.)
INSTRUCTIONS
See second post below for a detailed description of the Exhaust Depot method.
CAVEATS
1. THIS MOD DOES NOT INCREASE THE POWER OF THE ENGINE!
2. This mod has not been reported to throw any ECU codes (computer error messages) at this time, nor has it been reported to cause the engine to go into "limp mode".
3. It also does not appear to cause any danger to the engine or any of its parts, based on extensive discussion, but as with any mod any risk is entirely your own!
PARTS & TOOLS:
You need a 3/16" vacuum T connector (see photo #6 below). These are reportedly available from any Wal-Mart, AutoZone or Pep Boys. (Anybody got a link for online purchase?)
You'll also need three plastic tie-offs of the kind typically used to tie off hoses and plastic components under the hood. (See pics 14-16 below.) (Anybody got a link for online purchase?)
Finally, you'll need a plastic 3/16" cap to cover the open port nozzle on the valve. (More info needed here, please!)
For tools you need some pliers (to pry off the hose) and a straight razor or box cutter (or similar). Any sharp knife will probably do, but a smaller-sized one is probably best.
MTS posted some excellent, well-labelled photographs showing his alternate approach in this post: Ok here you go, first free mod
(I think my images below compliment his: You should look at ALL of them before doing this mod!)
ALTERNATE APPROACHES
Lil Goat posted an excellent summary of an alternate installation below, which came from this thread here:
Quote:
Unplug hose on back of solenoid (seen from driver's side of car) unhook other end of hose from cold side pipe, plug nipple. Discard hose. Unplug hose from front of solenoid (other ends goes to intake very short hose), insert coupler 1/4" unplug hose from side of solenoid attach to coupler. Make it look nice and neat. Go drive car and enjoy.
Some users feel that method is easier because it doesn't require the T-connector. Others feel it's more noticable and might be picked out by a dealer under a questionable warranty situation. You have to decide which approach is better for you. More discussion on this alternate approach may be found in this thread in the very helpful posts by MTS and Lil Goat below.
David Dougherty came up with another approach using a Y connector instead of a T connector to facilitate switching back for dealer service under warranty. He included an image and a description, which may be seen in this post: EDAL Anti-Lag Mod
MSG_McKee uploaded his pics from using David Dougherty's approach, with the slight change of painting the "Y" connector black for additional stealthiness. Ok here you go, first free mod
OUR THANKS
Our thanks for all the details in this description go out to Hector at Exhaust Depot, MTS & Lil Goat for their alternate approach, and Frank I for some timely advice on phrasing.
Image #3: Full Engine View with Cover Removed, Before Mod
A full engine image with the cover removed, so you can see where everything is located. The exposed valve is in the center of this image.
You can see the "incoming" rubber tube coming around the front side of the engine block into the front side of the surge valve (this is the one we'll unplug). (We'll call this Hose #1.) (See this post for more information about where this hose comes from.)
Another rubber tube comes out of the side of the surge valve facing away from camera (the right side of the car when viewed from the driver's seat) and circles over the top of Hose #1 over to enter the intercooler pipe (bottom-left area of the image below). (We'll call this Hose #2.) (This hose will not be touched in this mod.)
A third rubber tube comes out of the side of the surge valve facing the camera, then takes an immediate 90-degree turn and drops down into the engine block (this is the one we'll slice in half and insert the T connector into). (We'll call this Hose #3.)
Image #4: Close-up of Charge Air Bypass Valve (Solenoid) Before Mod
This image shows a close-up of the valve before the mod takes place. You may want to read the description for image #3 above again while looking at this image closely. Note that the plastic-covered wiring that comes up from the bottom of this image (just above the dip-stick) and enters the surge valve is not going to be touched during this mod. Be careful not to slice it when you cut Hose #3.
Image #5: One Last "Before" Shot
This image shows the "before" from one more angle, just to give a better view of where some of these rubber tubes are coming from and going to.
Image #6: The T-Connector
Close-up of the T-connector that you're going to insert into the sliced rubber tubing.
Image #7: Unplugging the "Incoming" Tube
This image shows the removal of the tube that's plugged into the left (front-of-car) side of the surge valve. Here we see Hector loosening the green metal tie piece that holds the tube firmly clamped. DO NOT CLAMP THE TUBE WITH THE PLIERS! Just loosen the tie piece and then you should be able to pull the tube loose with your fingers.
Image #8: Capping the Inlet Hole
Once you've removed the rubber tubing that leaves an open nozzle on the valve that has to be closed. Simply place the cap onto the nozzle. (It doesn't need to be tied off.)
Image #9: Slice the Rubber Tubing
Now we need to slice the rubber tubing. It's a bit hard to see which tubing is being sliced here, but it's the shortest of the three tubes that we've been talking about, and it runs from the surge valve into the engine block just a couple of inches aft of the surge valve. This is "Hose #3" described above. Slice this hose all the way through, and then insert the T-connector into the gap you've just created.
Image #10: T-Connector Inserted
This image shows the T-connector after it has been inserted into the sliced rubber hose. You can just see the white "T" portion of the connector sticking out from the black hose. If you look closely you can also see Hose #1 hanging loose, with its disconnected end dangling just to the left of the dip stick handle.
Image #11: Pulling Extra Slack on Hose #1
This step may not be necessary in some vehicles, depending on how much slack the installer left on this hose at the factory. In my case Hector had to briefly pull gentle on the hose to bring in maybe another inch of slack. Don't pull from the spot where Hector is holding it in this image, though! The image doesn't quite show this, but if you look closely just above Hector's hand you can see where another (much larger) hose crosses over Hose #1, and just past that point you can see where both of these hoses are held in place on the front of the engine block by a small plastic clamp. That's where you want to do the "pulling", and you'll want to pull very gently. The clamp is open at the front for Hose #1, so if you're not careful here it can come unsteated from its clamp (just push it aft so it snaps back in). (See this post for an image of the bracket that holds this hose, and where the slack is coming from.)
Image #12: Reconnecting Hose #1
In this image we see Hector connecting Hose #1 to the T-connector.
Image #13: Close-up of Charge Air Bypass Valve (Solenoid) After Mod
Here we see a close-up of the valve after the mod is basically complete (the tie-offs have not yet been connected). We can see Hose #1 crossing over the valve and entering the T-connector, and we can see the blue nozzle plug covering the place where Hose #1 used to be connected. You can also clearly see how the T-connector fits into the sliced Hose #3 (this is the hose you would have to replace in order to undo this mod). (Boy, you know your hood's been open too long when a dead bug falls onto your engine block!)
Image #14: Overall Shot and View of Tie-Downs
It's a bit hard to see because they're black and are against a black background, but in this image the plastic tie-downs have been wrapped around all bits of rubber tube that go into the T-connector (two parts of Hose #3 and the end of Hose #1). Use the box cutter or knife you used earlier to cut the ends of the plastic ties off above their locking mechanisms. (Hector at ED also recommends zip-tying the plugged nozzle where Hose #1 used to connect to the valve.)
Image #15: All Done!
All finished, and the engine cover has been replaced. Notice also that the plastic tie-downs has been sawed off above their locking points. (Dang, did I remember to get that dead bug out of there?!)
Wow that's the hard way, look at image No. 4 see the vaccum hose on the far left coming out of the solenoid get a coupler not a T pull that hose off plug it into th hose coming off the front of the solenoid, the one with the bends in it. Now unplug the hose off the back of the solenoid and follow it to the cold side pipe, unplug it and put a rubber nipple over the little pipe, wire tie the stuff and you are done, NO CUTTING NO TEE NO UGLY MESS!
__________________ Red Bull Drift Team 2008
Solo Mach and High Flow Cat
Dejon Intercooler, Intake Elbow, BOV spring
Wester's Garage RACE tune II
JPM custom shifter.
Militec-1
GM Auto-dimming mirror with OnStar and maplights
Rhys Millen Racing, RMR Style Bar. Peak RWHP 286.3, Peak Torque 313 ft/lbs.
SSR Type C wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's
Car is named Thunderstruck!
I didn't use a t-line back to the cold pipe, I just used a straight connector and capped the cold pipe. As far as I can tell, both methods accomplish the same thing, right?
Wow that's the hard way, look at image No. 4 see the vaccum hose on the far left coming out of the solenoid get a coupler not a T pull that hose off plug it into th hose coming off the front of the solenoid, the one with the bends in it. Now unplug the hose off the back of the solenoid and follow it to the cold side pipe, unplug it and put a rubber nipple over the little pipe, wire tie the stuff and you are done, NO CUTTING NO TEE NO UGLY MESS!
I agree! I did this method and wrapped the pipe from the Intercooler pipe for later "un-modding" if I need to have engine warranty work done. Also, no hose to replace on reversal either. If I need to do in for service all I need do is unclamp the two sides of the new connector and plug the lines back on the solenoid, uncap the Intercooler pipe and slide the clamp onto the hose and slip it over the nipple on the IC pipe, slip the connector into my pocket and I am stock again. Estimated time (from doing it) 2 minutes.
Either method does exactly the same thing, I just felt this one was easier for "un-modding" for warranty. Thanks a lot ED for pointhing this out!
__________________
Ernie Guzman Pontiac in Houston are liars and profiteers!!
Power Train Mods Are Done!!! Dejon CAI, Dejon IC Pipes, EDAL, Magnaflow 3" cat-back
Misc. Mods: WindRestrictor 2, stubby, de-badged, engine cover painted, garage door opener, headlights smoked, egg yolks gone, Garmin Nuvi 660, custom trailer hitch, upolstering
To Do: Calipers painted, Back mud flaps, ECM tune? Boost Controller?
It seems we have the E.D. method shown in pics, and the MTS method. I described the MTS. They do the same thing, and I agree MTS is faster to reverse and no cutting. The hose with the coupler in it lays under the solenoid and you can't even tell anything was done. I put a black nipple on the solenoid just to make it look better. I actually think it looks better than factory, no hose coming from the cold side pipe.
__________________ Red Bull Drift Team 2008
Solo Mach and High Flow Cat
Dejon Intercooler, Intake Elbow, BOV spring
Wester's Garage RACE tune II
JPM custom shifter.
Militec-1
GM Auto-dimming mirror with OnStar and maplights
Rhys Millen Racing, RMR Style Bar. Peak RWHP 286.3, Peak Torque 313 ft/lbs.
SSR Type C wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's
Car is named Thunderstruck!
I agree! I did this method and wrapped the pipe from the Intercooler pipe for later "un-modding" if I need to have engine warranty work done. Also, no hose to replace on reversal either. If I need to do in for service all I need do is unclamp the two sides of the new connector and plug the lines back on the solenoid, uncap the Intercooler pipe and slide the clamp onto the hose and slip it over the nipple on the IC pipe, slip the connector into my pocket and I am stock again. Estimated time (from doing it) 2 minutes.
Either method does exactly the same thing, I just felt this one was easier for "un-modding" for warranty. Thanks a lot ED for pointhing this out!
Can you or lil goat post some pictures of your way also?
__________________
DEEP, GT CONCEPT KIT,RK SPORT RAM AIR HOOD, RAZZI WING, UP-SHIELD, EIBACH SPRINGS(1.7”R), DEJON CAI AND I/C PIPES, CUSTOM EXHAUST,CUSTOM PAINT AND GRAPHICS, RMR STYLE BAR, LED AND ACCENT LIGHTS, CUSTOM GAUGE FACE, DASHHAWK UNIT,Premium package w/leather, A/C, Auto, 18" chrome wheels, 6-disc audio w/monsoon 7, spoiler, sport pedals.
I see what y'all mean about the two different methods. I'll fix that in the first post this afternoon. I don't see any reason why we can't describe both methods. It does sound like the other method is simpler, and that explains why MTS's pictures look a little different (I was wondering about that).
Hector has a good description of why you'd want one way versus the other, so I'll include that as well. Why don't we describe MTS's way as the "BOV soliniold bypass mod (BSBM)", and the way I described above as the "EDAL"? Make sense? Then members can simply pick the "easy BSBM mod" or the "slightly trickier EDAL mod" (which may help them avoid dealer notice).
(I still think it's insanely easy to reverse the ED version.)
Thanks again and I might do this at the Savannah Meet. 
