Ok, I've cleaned up and standardized the terminology and directional indicators, and made a few other minor edits here and there. I also replaced Image #3 with a version that's labelled within the image (my humble photoshop efforts don't seem to be blocking anything important, so I think I'll go with just the labelled version, since the next image shows the same thing in close-up).
If there are any other suggestions please feel free to pass them along. I'm still looking for online purchasing links to the little bits and pieces needed for the mod (see post #1).
I call it the EDAL mod because its nice to give credit where its due. I call it anti lag because tahts what it does, it causes the turbo to spool up quicker and removes some lag. It also bypasses the solenoid but it does not state what it does.
The quickest way to do it is my way, the cleaner way i guess is Robs way. Regardless, as long as you show a constant manifold pressure on the factory surge valve, you have accomplished the same thing.
Also there is no need to install a stiffer spring or shim the spring in your stock surge valve, it wont leak at higher boost because the top of the valve will see boost plus spring pressure where as the other end will see only boost.
Ok, I've cleaned up and standardized the terminology and directional indicators, and made a few other minor edits here and there. I also replaced Image #3 with a version that's labelled within the image (my humble photoshop efforts don't seem to be blocking anything important, so I think I'll go with just the labelled version, since the next image shows the same thing in close-up).
If there are any other suggestions please feel free to pass them along. I'm still looking for online purchasing links to the little bits and pieces needed for the mod (see post #1).
Just go to autozone and look for a T that says 3/16" on it. Its that simple. Then get the assorted pack of vacuum plugs.
I did not zip tie the plug in this pic because the nipple went on super tight. I recommend you zip tie the cap anyways just in case.
I realize this is a ridiculous amount of detail, but I had a few minutes to kill while waiting for someone so I thought I'd go ahead and toss this in.
Here are a couple of additional images related to step #11 (pulling extra slack on Hose #1, which is the hose coming around the front of the engine from the turbocharger. In my case a little extra slack had to be pulled through the bracket in order for the hose to be connected to the new location. This can probably happen with either variant of this mod, because both versions of the mod require the hose to reconnect aft of its original location.
It's really not a big deal because it looks like all cars will probably have plenty of slack there, but I wanted to show where that extra slack is coming from when you pull on the hose. The first image shows a closeup of one of the two brackets that holds the hose up against the front of the engine block. There's one to either side of the front face of the engine block, in each corner, and the bracket also holds a larger, insulated hose above it. The hose we're talking about is the smaller, lower one. You can see from this image that it would be pretty easy to, if necessary, pop the hose out of the bracket and move it slightly in order to free up a little slack. In my case Hector just pulled it gently through the bracket.
The second image below shows where the hose originates from, which is the turbo unit on the right side of the engine compartment. You can't really see the hose in this image, but the arrow indicates where it enters the system.
I'm pretty much done here but I've asked a moderator to see if we can get this thread stickied for future reference, and if anybody has any other tips or suggestions for additions to the thread please feel free to PM me and I'll add them in.
Great instructions!!! Just completed the mod and it really works .
No more bog after a quick shift, that was bugging the crap out of me !!
Made one little change so converting back before having service work done. Used a "Y" connector rather than a "T" and added a little tube between the tube and the surg valve.
Thanks Again
DD
__________________
Future so bright I have to wear shades!!!
Mean GXP (VIN 117835 11/06 )
Name: Growler
Name: Growler (Vin #4878) Traded for Mean GXP 3/19/07
Mean, dark side, ebony leather w/red stiching, LSD, ABS, AC, Monsoon 6CD changer, mats , headliner, stability control, XM, power pkg., convenience pkg., chrome wheels, sport peddles, Fiam Air Horns, Magnaflow, De-badged, shortened waste gate rod mod.
Garage Mates: 2005 Yamaha FJR1300, 2003 Yukon w/K&N CAI, 2003 Honda CRV
Yeah that Y looks cleaner than the T. We should paint htem flat black then it will be a stealth.
If you dont have a cap to plug the solenoid, use a screw and a piece of hose to make a plug. That what i was going to use initialy but then i dropped it in the engine bay somewhere and managed to find a kit with vacuum caps.
This mod i would say would be equivilant to a $200-$300 performance gain.
Some of you have been asking how you hook up the bov and do the EDAL mod at the same time, well here is a good picture of it. YOu can see two Tees in this pic.
As far as I understand it, the ECU reduces boost when additional mods are installed, in order keep the vehicle on the programmed torque lines.
Does this mod keep that from happening?
If so, I would guess that the ECU would then lean the AF mixture to achieve the same goal.
Would the ECU be "dumb" enough to lean the mixture to the point of potential engine damage, just to limit power?
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