You might also consider what other mods people have that are throwing codes ... it might not just be the CAI with the issue. Either way, 3000 "fun" miles with no codes on my Fujita. I would take an educated guess that more people have the Fujita CAI than the other couple and I only hear a few complaints .... not too bad. Has anyone with the MF exhaust had issues with the Fujita? Just curious ~Steve
__________________
2007 Aggressive GXP (Manual) loaded minus On* and Smoker's Pkg (Born 11/10/2006 and picked up on 11/22/2006) SOLD 10/17/2008
Good to hear about his CIA, mine should be here Monday morning
If you look at the rest of my post I explained it in joking terms. I failed to connect one of the clamps on the pipe to the flexible connector tightly enough. The first time I pushed the boost to about 16lbs. the pressure blew the pipe out of the connector. This opened up the loop and the turbo could not make any pressure, so some sensor detected this and threw an engine code.
I limped home, reattached the pipe and tightened all of the clamps agin good and tight, reset the code with the battery disconnect trick and it has been flawless since!!
For me, Dejon-Dave's CAI & IC Pipes have not throw a code since and I drive hard!!
__________________
Ernie Guzman Pontiac in Houston are liars and profiteers!!
Power Train Mods Are Done!!! Dejon CAI, Dejon IC Pipes, EDAL, Magnaflow 3" cat-back
Misc. Mods: WindRestrictor 2, stubby, de-badged, engine cover painted, garage door opener, headlights smoked, egg yolks gone, Garmin Nuvi 660, custom trailer hitch, upolstering
To Do: Calipers painted, Back mud flaps, ECM tune? Boost Controller?
__________________ 2007 'Cool' GXP
Personal Audio Link
Custom/Homemade A-Pillar Pod w/ Boost/Vac Gauge
Dejon IC Pipes & CAI
Wastegate Rod Mod
Solo Street Race
Debaged
I have both the Fujita CAI and the MF exhaust, to date I have not thrown any codes or gone into limp mode. The STFT runs anywhere from -2.0 to 7.0 at times and the LTFT is currently on 6.2
Sometimes other sources of information are more convincing....
A bigger inlet diameter or smaller diameter at the MAF location could be detrimental or the ECU may be flexable enough to adjust based on other engine sensor inputs.
Source for info below: http://engine.firebirdv6.com/ the bolding and underline are mine. A google search will turn up many sources.
MAF Sensor
The MAF Sensor uses hot wires inserted in a known cross sectional area to measure airflow. The MAF Sensor and the IAT Sensor output signals to the PCM determine the injector pulse time during Open Loop Condition. The MAF output signal is dependant on the resistance in the wire due to the wire temperature. The temperature is a function of the air velocity, as the faster the velocity the lower (cooler) the wire temperature. So, as the velocity of the air increases (acceleration) the wire cools and sends a signal to the PCM to lengthen the pulse time of the injectors to deliver more fuel in order to maintain the desired A/F ratio of 14.7:1.
In front of the heated wire is a screen. Many people are suggesting that improved airflow will be gained by cutting the screen out of the MAF. It is not recommend that this be done on an F-body. Most people mistake this screens purpose as preventing debris from hitting the hot wires in the MAF (that is what the air filter is for). Actually the screen is a bank of straightening vanes used to straighten the airflow before passing by the hot wires. Eddies and vortices (turbulence) in the MAF will cause inaccurate readings. Straightening vanes are used in most mass flow measurement situations where 10 diameters of straight upstream conduit are not available. The F-body intake does not meet this requirement.
An accurate MAF sensor is critical for the engine's fuel/air ratio adjustments. So, what happens when the screen is removed? The flow (mass) is the same, BUT without the screen (which is a restriction) the velocity is lower. Lower velocity means a hotter wire temperature which equates to a LOWER flow! So the PCM adjusts the injectors to provide LESS fuel. Since the HO2 sensors do not provide input when the MAF is online the PCM does not adjust for the LEAN condition, until it goes back into Closed Loop Condition.
The ecm can adjust to the smaller diameter when it notices that the o2 reads rich, but it shouldnt have to and the pipe should not of been smaller then stock. Bigger maybe, but definetly not smaller since it now limits how much air can pass through the smaller pipe compared to a 3" pipe.
I question the notion that the typical CAI offers a less restricted air flow than the stock air intake and filter.
It's been argued convincingly on this forum that on the NA sol a CAI does not give you a horsepower gain.
Furthermore, for the intake to be superior than stock every part of it must offer less restriction than the stock components.
This is simple, a smaller intake pipe is not going to have less restriction than a larger intake pipe. This is easy to grasp... big is good, small is bad.
Now, for the filter to offer less restriction, it must have a greater surface area than the stock filter (assuming they have similar porosity). I don't know if anyone has looked at the size and thickness of the stock air filter, but it is large and I'm not so sure that an 8 inch cone filter is going to match it for surface area..... this is another easy thing to understand...big surface area is good, small surface area is bad. All the hype in the world won't change that fact.
Now, about this resonator box on the stock intake.... Anyone who knows enough physics to understand resonant chanbers and impedance matching can tell you that this box might actually improve air flow.. particularly at certain ranges of RPMs....
It might be nice if some of the GM guys who know the mysteries of the NA solstice magical intake resonator box could speak up and clarify the mystery a bit.
About cold air.... cold air is good, warm air is bad. The stock air intake is a coldair intake the position of the air intake clearly means that it must be drawing on cold air from the front of the car. Some of the CAI's out there seem to be drawing on air from the front of the engine compartment, which seems questionable... some of them seem to position the air filter a little better and probably manage to do a better job of snagging cold air than others....
I think most people put the CAI's on because they sound nice... and they sure do sound nice.
oh and the MAF sensor might need cleaning.. which could be why it keeps throwing codes even after changing the filter... There is at least one thread on this subject in this forum...
Just where is the tiny hole at the end of the factory airbox drawing cold air in at? Through the plastic bulkhead? Good luck with that. Most of the CAIs that I have seen put the open element filter in close to the same location as the stock box... no cold air there to be had.
warm air in a CAI = bad
warm air in factory airbox = bad
If you can get by with a simple cleaning of your MAF then you are one of the lucky ones.
I posted on the GXP site trying to get some info on dyno numbers for people that hacked the stock airbox, whether or not it is a good thing or not remains to be seen.
MeanSol
__________________ Team Solstice 2008
MEAN GXP with the works, minus smoker, pedals, XM, Big Brother, and Onions
Current AAT topless outing record -8 degrees F
The thing you're missing is the speed of the air at different points in the system. In a fat area, air will be moving slowly, while in a narrow portion, air will be moving more quickly.
Bottom line is: If the MAF is in a tube that's smaller than the stock location, air must travel past it at a higher velocity, fooling the computer into thinking more air is entering the motor than actually is (since it thinks that high velocity is in a larger tube). This could easily throw a code since the MAP sensor and MAF sensor are not agreeing with each other.
Russ
Everyone has good points and we all want to get to the bottom of the CAI issue. I would like to add some data to the discussion. When I had the CAI problem I also had the DashHawk installed and compiled a lot of data. Here are some insights:
1. Prior to setting the code the MAF sensor would show about 30% greater volume than the car now shows when it is running correctly. This was when the ECU was ready to set a code and go into limp.
2. As this took place the LTFT and STFT would both be driven up. When the combination of both hit a range of 20-25, the car would set a code or go into limp.
3. Multiple resets of the ECU did nothing until I cleaned the MAF sensor. I am not sure the air filter was the issue, but, if it wasn't, it was a dirty tube itself. In my case the problem was a contaminated MAF sensor that came from either the pipe or filter.
4. I have put on at least two thousand miles since the CAI issue and the LTFT now runs in the 0-3 range.
As far as the discussion relative to air flow and volume, everyone is right. The MAF sensor looks at velocity, but, the engine lives on volume (mass). A smaller tube might confuse the sensor, but, I don't see that now. On the other hand these engines are restricted by the factory airbox. It is strange the diameter would vary at the maf sensor location.
As far as intake air temperature, I can tell you this the Fujita CAI does not increase the IAT. At cruise there is only a difference of four degrees over ambient air temp and that is better than most cars. If someone has a Dashhawk and a stock airbox it would be interesting to see what that differential would be . One minor correction, the MAF and MAP sensors have no meaningful correlation prior to boost and that is where these codes are set.
We have had 2 or 3 people out of quite a few more then that actually come to us with a problem. I believe one of them was a manufacturer deffect, and the others have not yet been determined due to not enough information. I am going to call Fujita tommorrow to express the concern about the intake to them. Other then that it seems this is something that has been blown out of proportion with little actual situations to back it up. If you have a problem with your intake, call me and we will take care of you. If you have details as to what it is doing, and what codes it throws, as well as a picture of the install, we can have a better shot at finding the problem and fixing it. These are tested and developed on a dyno. Multiple sizes of pipe, bend locations, and MAF locations are tested prior to release. The intake was designed the way it is for a reason. Again if you have a problem with yours call me and we will fix it and the actual intake if we find a common problem. My phone number is (951) 296-6762 ext. 208 If I am not at my desk you can leave a message and I will call you back, or get ahold of the opperator and ask for Brian. I hope we can clear up any confusion there is with the intake as it is a great product and has functioned flawlessly on a majority of the cars it has been installed on.
Cheers,
Brian
__________________
"Dream as if you live forever, live as if you die today" _James Dean
My problem is the desing of it, i dont see how it can simply be fixed unless fujita re-does it to the same size as the stock intake.
The area of the where the maf sits is crucial for correct airflow calculation, any car guru will tell you this. Why fujita decided to make it smaller i simply cannot understand.
If i would of known this i would of never bought the fujita intake, in fact if anyone doesnt think this is a problem and wants to buy it from me let me know.
We have had 2 or 3 people out of quite a few more then that actually come to us with a problem. I believe one of them was a manufacturer deffect, and the others have not yet been determined due to not enough information. I am going to call Fujita tommorrow to express the concern about the intake to them. Other then that it seems this is something that has been blown out of proportion with little actual situations to back it up. If you have a problem with your intake, call me and we will take care of you. If you have details as to what it is doing, and what codes it throws, as well as a picture of the install, we can have a better shot at finding the problem and fixing it. These are tested and developed on a dyno. Multiple sizes of pipe, bend locations, and MAF locations are tested prior to release. The intake was designed the way it is for a reason. Again if you have a problem with yours call me and we will fix it and the actual intake if we find a common problem. My phone number is (951) 296-6762 ext. 208 If I am not at my desk you can leave a message and I will call you back, or get ahold of the opperator and ask for Brian. I hope we can clear up any confusion there is with the intake as it is a great product and has functioned flawlessly on a majority of the cars it has been installed on.
Cheers,
Brian
I have about 3000 miles with no CAI issues and I push my GXP hard. Sounds like only a few people having issues and I would think that Fujita has sold more than the other GXP CAIs. JMO People need to let vendors know (directly) when they have an issue with a product ... my past experiences with Kappasphere's customer service are better than any other vendor on the SF.
Just my 2 cents Steve
__________________
2007 Aggressive GXP (Manual) loaded minus On* and Smoker's Pkg (Born 11/10/2006 and picked up on 11/22/2006) SOLD 10/17/2008
Either way, 3000 "fun" miles with no codes on my Fujita. I would take an educated guess that more people have the Fujita CAI than the other couple and I only hear a few complaints .... not too bad. 
Has anyone with the MF exhaust had issues with the Fujita? Just curious ~Steve
nice, I can see how that may cause a problem 
I have about 3000 miles with no CAI issues and I push my GXP hard.