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Old 01-14-2008, 10:50 AM
  
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Yeah man, just fab it up for now. Worry about making it look pretty later.

Your right, it is odd that they would use a sensor that reads vac pre TB. But make sure the IAT2 is post intercooler, use a thermocouple for the temp. There could be quite a difference in pressure post intercooler depending on the weather, and why not allow the vehicle to read properly at part throttle, we might get uneccesary timing pull if its reading hotter and more pressure than the manifold is seeing.
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Old 01-14-2008, 11:13 AM
  
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Concur. K.I.S. The fewer variables and complexities, the better.
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Old 01-14-2008, 12:05 PM
  
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4" is pretty big. Bigger than needed maybe? I have that on my GT35R setup. Is the GT30R you're using 4" in?

Another option on the charge pipes is to use one size for the hard piping, then a silicone reducer to get the size adjustments you want.

Keep it simple... and inexpensive.

Russ

Yea Gt3076R. It has a 4"inlet. The idea being that the parts made will fit Gt3076R,GT3582R, and with a little wiggle GT4088&94R. All on Tial SS turbine housings.

I have the aluminum hardpipe that I can swedge to the mating sizes allowing the re-use of stock couplers. SUperKisS!

I'll take a pic of how clean the turbo side came out. Heatshield fits but I'll leave it off for pics.
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Old 01-14-2008, 01:03 PM
  
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Hurry! We're anxious.

I bet the larger turbo raises the exhaust volume (loudness) a ways. :-) Already running catless.

I'm thinking that for a street car, I'd be happy with 425 to 450hp at the crank (somewhere around 365 to 390 at the wheels). A turbo that could efficiently make that power ought to have pretty decent spool characteristics.

From ATP Turbo's site:
GT2871R: 400hp
GT3071R: 450hp?
GT3076R: 500hp

So maybe the GT3071R for folks that want a more streetable setup and the GT3076R for higher power/track use. Would the GT3071R fit as well as the 76?

Another factor is the car's driveline. If it can't take much more than 400hp (is that even feasible), then no reason to go bigger if you don't plan to swap clutch, tranny, diff, half shafts or wherever the weak points are in the drivetrain.

Thanks,
Russ
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Old 01-14-2008, 07:05 PM
  
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PICS! first is the billet adapter for putting the MAF into the 3" pipe. aluminum or carbon.
others are the finished,clean Garrett Gt3076R installed. Intake has to cure overnight before I can demold it. IM stoked bigtime. I wanna crack it over and fire it up bad, but Im almost done. I'll wait until it's finished.



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Old 01-14-2008, 07:24 PM
  
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Very nice. Looks quite professional!

Oh... do you have a web site where you'll be selling this once it's ready?

Thanks,
Russ
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Old 01-14-2008, 08:55 PM
  
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Thanks, I think you'll really like the Carbon intake pipe +filter. I'll post some pics of it as soon as it comes out of the vacuum bag..

Yes, I have a site. When my stuff is ready, I'll become a supporting vendor and you'll find me on the sidebar. Or you'll be able to get it throught New Era.
Im trying to move twards being a parts manufacturer only. Not having to worry about shipping, receiving and so forth gives me more time to spend bringing cool products to fruition.

Im still finishing up the 11 full custom builds I took on last year, thats what has been taking me so long.
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Old 01-14-2008, 10:06 PM
  
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Its...so....beautiful!
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:47 AM
  
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i love this thread.

Can't wait to see this intake - might have to hit you up to replace mine.

good luck on the startup!

seth
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:10 AM
  
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Did you weld a flange to the compressor cover so you could use the stock cast elbow at the compresor outlet? That's nice looking!
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:32 AM
  
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Did you weld a flange to the compressor cover so you could use the stock cast elbow at the compresor outlet? That's nice looking!

Thanks for all the positive comments!

I did indeed weld a CNC'd flange to re-use your stock cast elbow bolts and all. The discharge of the GT30 housing is 1.78"id so a little flap roll after tig welding leaves a flawless transition. The stock elbow is very nice and adds to the sleeper look. When the heatshield is in place (shame to hide such a nice rustproof housing but nessicary for heat)
Only the braided oil line alerts the keen eye that somthing is afoot....

Also if you look close I digitized and cnc'd a flange for the PCV (1st pic just below the discharge clamp,in front of the silicone adapter) to epoxy to the carbon intake pipe(not present in photo). Again all stock hardware is re-used.
Im still hummin' and hawin' over what to do about the breather scoop. I have a really elaborate one that will take several fixtures to build and no doubt work well.
Or 1)I could just flare a piece of stainless tubing and use that. (cheaper)
2) I could cut the stocker from the plastic pipe with a razor/dremel and epoxy that in place.(even cheaper)

Opinions please!
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:42 AM
  
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Option 1 above sounds good. I like to keep stock bits as unscathed as possible for revert-to-stock-resale.

Russ
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Old 01-15-2008, 02:33 PM
  
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More Pics.

Hmm Tial or Turbonetics?

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Old 01-15-2008, 02:38 PM
  
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ONe thing I will say about the turbonetics is I kinda like this aspect
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Old 01-15-2008, 02:43 PM
  
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One Thing I know I dont like about High strength epoxies is thay take forever to cure. The suspense is killin me! lol
The intake should reach cure in 24 hrs. It's taking a little longer since the fair weather took a hike.
Just like rochester, "oh your cars about to rip? how about some nice snow and salt then."

I may trailer it to my buddy mike's shop and use his dyno instead. That way you'd have a more fair comparison with everyone else's #'s( he has a dynojet, I have a Dynomite). (plus I have a car apart on my dynoramp)
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Old 01-15-2008, 03:45 PM
  
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Well now that Ive considered it over dinner, I think I'm headed back out to the shop to weld the Tial on. I like sticking with a theme and they never leak. Blue is pretty nice. Now that my partner chuck has finally buttoned up the engine cover mold I'll do a black/blue carbon/kevlar mold.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:55 PM