Not sure what your point is there but we'll have to agree to diasagree.
Ive installed and dynotuned pretty much all BOV's out there. And those,Greddy,and a few others I pretty much tell people they are junk. it's really easy to tell. If there's a common dia between your BOV piston and that which is controlling it- It's crap. period. No way around basic physics. force = press x area.
The SSqv is supposed to bleed off some recurulated air, some external. It's Splittin the difference between blown off metered and recircluated metered air, Hoping to not cause a CEL .
It's a ban- aid at best.
Look at any professional racer or factory blown effort. The design remains the same. Diaphragm is profoundly larger than the valve it's controlling so it has a COMMANDING role over BOV action.
A little boost hold it shut with ease. A little boost and a little vacuum behind the throttle plate relaeses pressure with ease. This is how a proper BOV operates. Ask any pro that's in the biz and DOESNT sell bov's what he/she runs. UNbiased I Bet you'll find a certain commonaility with them...
Last edited by BaldTurboFreak : 12-22-2007 at 12:25 AM.
He was wanting to know what BOV's did that, and the SSQV was intended to make that sound (I'm assuming that is what the chipmunk sound is ). Of course, it operates in a completely different manner than a standard BOV, and doesnt damage anything during operation (at least, none ever have on the several cars I've seen running them. My buddy's SRT-4 had one for well over 3 years and he never had any compressor problems at all).
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Quote:
My buddy's SRT-4 had one for well over 3 years and he never had any compressor problems at all).
Just because you can do it doesn't make it the right way to do it. A Garrett T28 turbo can run at 30 psi. Doesn't mean it's designed to run at that boost level.
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Actually some can make 45+. They are perfectly happy doing so, just for a very narrow window. Then you overspeed the sucker till it g's out.
But Bov theory is fodder for another thread.
So the consensus is I should make the Gt3076R and above a blow thru maf with external BOV. and Gt3071R-WG on down should be internally gated AND Bov'd?
Sounds reasonable.
Actually some can make 45+. They are perfectly happy doing so, just for a very narrow window. Then you overspeed the sucker till it g's out.
But Bov theory is fodder for another thread.
So the consensus is I should make the Gt3076R and above a blow thru maf with external BOV. and Gt3071R-WG on down should be internally gated AND Bov'd?
Sounds reasonable.
Yes, an external wastegate would be great. I am also following your vette filter mod. I might put that setup on my vette myself.
I worked a little on chrismas and here's the update:
Stainless housing has been finish machined, glass beaded and passivated.
Compressor housing has been finish welded and machined flat for the stock elbow. IM contemplating whether to powdercoat them (and which color) or try anodizing it. ( can you do cast a356? I dunno Im new @plating)
Stock oil return and cooling lines fit perfectly. Mild hand tweak for the coolant line and drill the 4mm oil return holes to 6mm is all that is required.
The oil feed banjo is hitting a turbine bolt head. If I cant clock it I may actually have to change out the line for a braided stainless one. (getting to the other end wil require a swivel,18mm socket and possibly an open end wrench. how annoying) More on that later.
Im looking for a suitibly sized Cat Monolith to build into the downpipe. Maybe someone @solo could speak up/PM?
Im contemplating the placement of the MAF element inthe charge pipes.
Pre-intercooler
PROS: would be nice because it would be a way to measure compressor discharge temps. It also would never have any issues with moisture on the element.
CONS: if we're someday rockin 35+ psi the discharge temps might melt the SOB.
Post intercooler
PROS:is a safer route in a high boost application because of the above Cons + the ability to put the BOV closer to the throttle plate. This allows for faster boost recovery on gearshifts because the majority of charge isnt forced to change direction.
CONS: it could possibly have a condensation issue in certain climates/temps. No haps on the pre-intercooler temp monitoring
Speaking of intercooler I was brainstorming the other day, it would be kinda cool to go with a BIG flow tube/fin core of Diesel truck proportions (actuall same size as radiator core) Since they are designed to be used in front of a radiator they allow more flow thru the ambient side making overheating a non-issue.
This would allow one to build a Huge ramscoop in the current intercooler location, using all that Grill frontal area for turbo consumption. Not much help 0-60 but over 100mph it begins to add up (on a race track of course). Like Mike Moran has been theorizing: if the motor could consume enough air from the front end you are actually REDUCING frontal area!
Have you look at the Werks race intercooler?. It looks like the description you made in your last paragrahp.
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Yessir that would be a tubefin dieselcore!
Only brand new from garrett. They are priced very reasonable,but come tankless.
Just tossin ideas around. I like liquid air cores as well,allowing a more compact setup. Albeit with a small weight penalty.
I havent seen the werks setup, I'll have to take a look.
BTF, nice work!
You absolutley MUST go blow through, External WG.
For anyone willing to tackle this kind of a modification, they would want to have the better performing setup.
Speaking of better performing. Tube & Fin? WHAaaAA??
No no no no...
Go with a nice spearco core, trust me, it will cool enough. 3.5 inch core. Yep you'll be just fine.
Thanks Beau,
actually the tube fin core would be nessicary to put it directly in front of the radiator. And I mean directly in the radiator tunnel. The fin density is far less the a Bar/plate core on the ambient side. Typically speaking the cores are sized for steadystate (always under high 20+psi) boost from a diesel.
If I go up front or if I go liquid/air it will most definitly be Bar/plate.
I use garrett cores mostly 'cause they are high quality, secondly because I already have an account with them and it's easy to just pickup the phone & hollar@pete. lol
Ive never build an intercooler from a spearco core, so I dont honestly have an opinion on them.
So I was in the shower thinking about your bov location question..
Is it possible to convert the system to a MAP setup? If it were at the throttle body an external BOV could vent to atmosphere without any air quantity miscalculations.. similar to turbo honda setups. I suspect anything to do with the stock ECU will make this pretty difficult. Likewise, a VPC (variable pressure controller) would probably be hard to implement. The DSM guys like to use those when converting to a venting bov setup but it's somewhat expensive.
I've vented the hks ssq on a couple different boosted cars and frankly I like the crisp, quick chirp. A part of me would like to have something like that on the sky, but another part likes the simplicity, stealth, lower expense, etc of the integrated setup. The blah noise just doesn't sound good one bit. As you mentioned, the external setup would give users their choice of bovs to personalize it to their own sound requirements. Perhaps your suggestion of the smaller kits being integral and the larger setups being external would work well.
sorry, just rambling. Blah blah blah. Like the others, I’m very much interested in the development of this.
oh, forgot to ask. did you have to clock it to make things fit?
also, can't wait to see what kind of tuning this thing will require.
j
Last edited by boostednlinefor : 12-26-2007 at 06:22 PM.
Reason: forgot a question
naw, cant go speed-density yet. Perhaps a few years down the road HPTuners will have a custom operating system, but for now we cant even get them to finish the existing controls.
If the BOV is before the MAF there won't be any fueling miscalculations because vented air wont have passed thru the MAF.
Havent checked on the oilfeed issue yet, I have the turbo on the Bench again.
Time to start making jig for the housing, while I figure out what to do about the compressor housing's finish. (Im a details guy)
+ Im making a new banjo bolt that has a 0.060 crosshole to provide proper oil restriction.
The mockup bolt woulda smoked like a bastard due to it's coolant sized passages. BB turbos require a miniscule amount of oilflow to "float" the BB in. Thats why the coolant jackets on them are paramount There isnt enough oil flow to take the heat away.
Meanwhile I turn my head tward another Fugly lump of weight: the Intake manifold.
Im thinking about a composite manifold. This would be my first full carbon intake manifold,but it's been done before. Infact there are many example to read about online.
No fuel rail = less parts to make so it should make it more inexpensive to produce.
We should be able to shed another 10lbs, It's heatsoak proof and will have better inside runner finish/dimentional control.
Gonna start slow cookin that one on the back burner.
Last edited by BaldTurboFreak : 12-26-2007 at 06:43 PM.
__________________ Aggressive GXP at $25,995.00 shipping of $600, MT.
Options:
Air, $960; Chrome Wheels, $545; PCQ, Premium Package (Leather), $525; Radio, 6-Disc with MP3, $495; Monsoon, $395; Premium Acoustic Headliner, $150; and Sport Metallic Pedals, $115; all totals $29,180.00. No XM/OnStar and NO Spoiler. MODS (Magnaflow 2.5", BTF Turbo Upgrade wheel,DDM BB,ProBean&tune, K&N filter, Ventureshield.
First 1000. Aggressive with everything, NO XM/OnStar. SOLD
~~~~~~~ NASSOA
Founding member
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